365 weeks...

[JB]

Thanks guys for your comments,

Ed,
I did mean to write 2 way or 3 way splits, and am planning using Focals... Only 3 ways if i am feeling rich, they are about $1800 so most likely the 2 way.

Stinky,
I love your idea about the headlight buckets, and looked at something in the van when I did it, but never thought of the buckets, will see if the dimensions are right and then have a go... Thanks

Scotty,
You still have a wicked beast in your shed, and bloody quick too!!! Has a tendency to go round in circles though  

Hows the V6 going Fred??   

[JB]

Here are a few more snaps, I had to remove the car from the shed tha I was using as the owner required the space back so the last couple f days have been a tad hectic.




This greeted me this morning... Only a couple of metres long.






Its going to only get a little more work until after Christmas now as my new job starts in 3 weeks.
Work always gets in the way of fun.

Jason.

[zulu]

Trailer trash I'll give you $500 for the lot but you can keep the snake:D

I'll bet it's good to finally have it back rolling on it's wheels Jason, looks like you have just about completed all the hard work

That donk looks like a ball tearer, can you get away with that up there?

Cheers, Gary

[JB]

Thanks for the offer Zulu 

The engine is a straight 5 litre out of the VT clubsport, about the 185kw range. All that I want to do is put a decent Cam in it to make it sound nice. You can go to about 306ci with the power to weight formula, but the engineer said that 308 will be acceptable.

Jason.

[DN2168]

Awesome job Jason, makes me feel like taking to the wifes Senator with the oxy  .

Dean.

[pedro]

Its going to only get a little more work until after Christmas now as my new job starts in 3 weeks.
Work always gets in the way of fun.

It's a shame you are going to have to slow down Jason you have been an inspiration to us all, as I said earlier there's no way I would have tackled that floor unless i had seen what you have achieved first, you must be getting close to being finished with the fabrication side of things and on to the body anyway , did you check out Alfio's post, I know he had a few problems with some people here but his panel beating was impecable and he gave some damn good advice.

That donk looks like a ball tearer, can you get away with that up there?

I agre Zulu that engine looks huge(or it's a little trailer), doesn't look like it would even fit under the bonnet from that pic.
                   Pedro

[EffCee]

Jason,

Outstanding effort! you have achieved so much in such a short time. I hope that the relocation doesn't set you back too much

Keith

[JB]

Now i have to make an engine hoist... the forklift wouldn't fit on a trailer, and i have to get it off the trailer as it is parked outside.

I think i have the steel for the frame... just need to locate a block and tackle.

Then I have to get the engine to fit. the engine mounts from V6 conversions are for a standard fit... I have moved the engine further back to keep the thermo fans as per the van. then there is the problem of the sump. I have to cut and weld it so that the largest part of the sump is located under the pulley. painful I am guessing, but can be done.

See how it goes.

Jason.

[hrpremier]

Hi Jason,

Would be great to catch up and meet you and have a look at your ute before you put it on the back burner when you start the new job.    Especially as its now back down the hill.  If your keen give me a call on 0408 854 547 and we'll organise a time to meet.

Cheers

Jason
Edmonton

[JB]

For all of those wiring experts out there...

After moving all of the relay and battery etc to here, I now have to extend about 200 wires to the front of the car... The cutting and splicing i have no problem with... The problems I have are whats the best way to go about it, do I get another harness and cut it up connecting the ends to where they are meant to be and then join them to the current harness?? Do I try and label every cable the cut it up and splice them all back together, keeping in mind that one wire crossed up will cause me nightmares. Do I have a bridging cables to the front so that all of the wiring can be removed for sandblasting at a later date?

I remember when i did the van it took me a week solid to shorten the long lot of relays... this could take awhile. LOL

[JB]

Stinky,

Your headlight bucket idea is a gem!!!

The bucket allows for 6 inch speakers... maybe 6 1/2... thats what the focal speaker i want to use are.

[JB]

Next problem,

I need to move the sump forward by about 100mm to get it back in the middle of the front crossmember, as i have the engine rearward to use the thermofans that I have. Just like the van.

Question is do they make something like this before i cut up the sump and modify it?



Basically I need the largest part of the sump under the pulley.

Cheers
Jason.

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Stinky,
Your headlight bucket idea is a gem!!!

  Cool, probably not my idea originally, but I'll lay claim to it if no-one else does 
The speaker should produce better sound too, being in it's own enclosure.

[Ed]

Hey Jason,

While not an expert, from my last wiring experience, I found having 2 harnesses beneficial.  You can extend and make circuits using the correct coloured wiring.  Nothing worse than trying to trouble shoot and the wires change colour mid section.  Label, cut, re-join… you know you want to.

I think Falcons have good firewall plugs which you can clip in/out, handy for fast removal for sandblasting.

Does this harness have the BCM (Body Control Module)? Is that the black box pictured?

Cheers
Ed

PS don’t know of any factory sumps as you describe.

[CraigA]

I'd vote for this plan

do I get another harness and cut it up connecting the ends to where they are meant to be and then join them to the current harness??

Doing it this way would mean colour coding is standard so into the future any wiring faults can be traced using the donor vehicles circuit diagram, plus as you say you'll be able to remove and install the harness if needed.

The other issue is what will be the best way to join them?

Ideally you would use quality multi-pin connectors, but this may prove a bit bulky. If you mechanically join, solder, then heatshrink you'll get less bulk but soldering wires in areas subject to vibration could lead to breakage where the solder ends and the wires starts unless they are supported very securely.

Separate crimp connectors are another choice but will add bulk anyway so I reckon the multi pin method would be better.

Maybe something like this is the answer:

[JB]

I was thinking of the multi pin idea, but as you said the bulk is the problem and all of the wires have to pass through the A pillar.

The way I joined them before was to finger join the two ends and then wrap copper around the 2 before soldering and then heat shrink... I have had no problems since with the van. I think I will get the second harness, but i still don't think that the length will be long enough... will have to see I guess.
  Its all fun isn't it!

Thanks
JB

[CraigA]

This is how I was taught to mechanically join wires during my apprenticeship. Soldering in the centre section only is recommended.


This means that there is still support for the join outside the soldered area, making it more resiliant against vibration.

Heatshrink over the top and you've got a strong, neat, and low profile join.

Here's an equation you can use.

200 wires + 200 mechanical joins + 200 solder joins + 200 bits of heatshrink <> fun 

[brett_f]

Jason,
Just a thought. Coudn't you use an early sump that has the hump at the rear? e.g most Holden red motors had these. That is what i am using in my vehicle.
If you can use this you need to get the pickup and dipstick also.
Regards Brett

[GOA350]

Hi Jason, just my 2bobs worth, could you run the wiring harness under your console and cut a rectangle slot the size of the multi pin connector in the panel dividing the cabin from the ute space then mount it in this panel. Then connect the other half of the multi pin connector to the extension pieces and run to your relays.
  Cheers Scott

[JB]

I like your 2 bob worth Scott. I can take a leaf out of my job and make a panel that goes behind the centre console that can also be covered by fabric when the car gets upholstered. The wires can easily be routed via the console and I don't have the problem of getting any connections through an A pillar. Then the loom can be removed when desired, and wont be seen in the car when complete. 

CraigA, the equation that ou gave me would be awesome, but don't forget the other end of the lengthened wires, equals 400 wires + 400 mechanical joins + 400 solder joins + 400 bits of heatshrink <> bucketloads of fun   

With this method I may be able to get away with the second harness for the length of wires, the only 200 joins!!!

I am enjoying the input guys thank you.

JB