365 weeks...

[JB]

So the guards needed to be fitted next, I had drilled out the original fastening position as the either had rusted or been butchered and decided to fit rivnuts.

At $121 for the tool I decided to make one myself from one on the internet.



Rivnut



Need to make some sort of bracket to clamp the rivnut down, just need a piece of steel that has the same diametre as the bolt you are going to use. Mine was 8mm and the tool for the grinder had a nice little hole that i made a little bit bigger.

From there I drilled and inserted the rivnut into the subframe, and with another bolt, nut and washer it looks like this.



May be hard to see but the nut has a corner marked to count the rotations for fitment.

With the clamp fastened down... just for ease, you can hold it if need be. Hold t he bolt steady with a rachet or spanner and turned the bolt 3 complete turns to pinch the rivnut into place.



Back off the nut and take out the bolt and here is the finished product... a little blurry sorry.

[JB]

Then the guard went on, and because the engine wasn't in I could see full lock.









You can see with the v6conversions front end and the vs rack that the inner wheel turns further than the outer (as it should)
So I am expecting to be able to make it round a court in one go and not scrub the tyres! 

Thats it for now...

Cheers
JB

[DN2168]

Looking good JB, you must be happy with the progress.

Dean.

[fe350chev]

Thanks for the update and ideas etc...

Cheers

Deano.

[FCRB26]

Next time send me a msg and ill send you my old one for a rental just pay the postage.


On another note for all you other nutsert lovers try to buy the Knurled ones as the plain ones tend to spin we probablly use 5000 a month in the shop all S/S our ones and we have none come back for replacement where as our oppsition use plain and we replace them all the time.




Pete

[TTV6FC]

Looking good JB,have you considered rolling the inside lip of your guards (even just a bit)?Hate for them to catch as you are turning into a driveway or similar.Makes a mess when they do.

[jack_fc]

Looking good JB,have you considered rolling the inside lip of your guards (even just a bit)?Hate for them to catch as you are turning into a driveway or similar.Makes a mess when they do.

very good advice. I found out the hard way what happens when a front tyre catches a guard lip... just after a new paint job  

[JB]

Thanks for the advice guys, the wheels that are on the are 18", and I believe are a little tall for the look I am after... I am going 17x7's on the front and 17x10's on the rear, but with the engine in place the guards will still be in danger, I am looking at radiusing the guards probably by about an inch, and also either removing the lip and reinforcing or just a roll. Will let you know how I get on with the fabricator when I see him.
Cheers
JB

[JB]

Finally moved again today, off to see Cory who is going to straighten it all out for me.
Hopefully have plenty of progress photos as he goes about his work.






Dog still nosing about

[JB]

No shots of the car yet, but have been tidying the engine up ready for fitting into the car when its painted.

Glad I did as I had forgotten to do something that would have really ruined my day if i had fitted the engine to the car...













Redo the wiring next and fit to the gearbox... Will try and get some shots of the car soon.

Cheers
JB

[Ed]

You've done a great job getting all that to fit JB.

Cheers

Ed

[pedro]

Awesome looking engine JB, you'll give a few modern cars a surprise when you leave em for dead , those rivnuts look like a great idea do all nut and bolt mobs sell them.
                          Pedro

[JB]

Thanks guys, yes Pedro I believe that they do.

Cheers

[JB]

Engine finished, needs this done to fit it into...

[FCV08]

JB

Getting closer every photo.

Thanks for the update.

Cheers

Craig D

[JB]

One of the problems with moving the engine so far back into the car is that the gearshift lever also moves back with it... This left the changes a little awkward.

Until just the other day I didn't think that I could change this until I got the shifter down to have a look at it on the gearbox, something I hadn't seen since I pulled the car apart a number of years ago. To my surprise I had about 5 inches that i could cut out.

Here is todays end result, you can see what is was like on the previous shots. Another problem overcome. Where can I get some nylon washers and a retaining clip that I can find from the selector connection?

Next little project is to get all of the door stuff sorted..

Does anyone have a left and right quarter vents that they want to sell in excellent condition? Other option is to get a set that is not rusted to get re chromed... Mine were rotten with rust.

Cheers JB

[JB]

Cory has been busy fabricating  the drivers side panel today. I am glad it has come off looking at the holes that are behind the panel.

The diff comes out tomorrow to get a new centre and bearings put in.

I tried the molasses method for rust removal... awesome stuff!! bought a 5kg punnet from the live stock warehouse put half into a 20litre container and filled with water. Placed the handbrake lever into it... Has been 2 weeks now and I pulled it out today to find shiny metal!
Washed the dregs off and painted straight away. Didn't take any before and after photos though.

Cheers
JB

[fe350chev]

Great!

[Ed]

great progress JB...Nice little win with the shifter position. that panel work is fantastic.

yes please take some shots of the molasses.  Wouldn't mind a vat to dip my doors in!

Cheers

Ed

[JB]

Hey Ed,

Only got the shot of the molasses bucket with some growth on the top now LOL

From what I have read you need 7:1 water:molasses so build you dip tank big enough for the parts and then fill with stuff and dip away. From what i have read on the internet the solution lasts for about 6 months. It took 2 weeks to take off surface rust, so for larger rusted areas it may take longer.