Hr front end regarding outrigger and engine mounts.

[mikey]

Hello everyone.
 
I have a HR front end that does not have the original HR outrigger still attached, it has another style and would like to know if this is the correct one. The length of the outrigger has been measured from an existing hole in the middle of the front end.

The height of the outrigger at the end is to the bench top.

I have heard that outriggers have been fabricated in the past and I suppose it does not really matter to meas long as the dimensions are correct.

This will be used with a Holden 5 liter and the next thing is to work where the engine mounts should live, they have been moved to the rear sometime in the past which I think is the right spot if running a red motor. (will stand corrected)

Q1 Is the outrigger the right type?
Q2 Where should the engine mounts be for a V8.

Thanks   M

[Revhead_Fc]

Hi Mikey
The outrigger appears to be the correct one and the engine mounts look like they might be in the correct position to run the 5 litre but the best way to check would be to install the cross member into the car and try installing the motor keeping in mind when you put the motor in that a portion of the passenger side firewall needs to be moved back to clear the head.  Also the engine mounts will need to be reinforced to take the extra weight and power of the V8.

Hope this Helps
Ben

[Ed]

Mikey,

You will need to consider bracing the cross member as well.
I had used a CRS cross member and these have an additional cut out in the top of the cross member which provides excellent sump clearance for an HQ style sump. 

The bottom side was also reinforced with fully welded plate.

In addition to this the lower control arms were braced up using round bar stitch welded to the underside of the lip of the control arms.

HTH

Cheers

Ed

[mikey]

Hi Ben,Ed,

          Yes will be adding the sump clearance in and internally bracing as well as fully plating the base of the member right up to the coil spring holes.

 I have quite a few pictures of front ends that clearly show the width of the sump cutout and depth of it (also with an engine in place) but no real clear pictures of the position of the engine mounts so I suppose I am after 100% confirmation of where the correct position of should be. (don't have a trial engine available yet)

The welds look a bit sus on the engine mounts from being previously moved so may end up cutting them off and making some other ones out of material a bit heavier.

Have already welded on reinforcing bars to both of the lower control arms so that part is out of the way.

Am in Melbourne's West, does anyone have any clear pictures of their front end or do you have one either out of car or installed in one that I could have a look see??

Think CRS was about the $650 mark for a change over front end so this bit of mucking around is worth it.

Cheers  M

[Ed]

Mikey,

Eyeballing the mounts would help but it is still a guess at where to place them without the motor.

I had the near side mount from the CRS supplied unit, moved rearward, then modified the engine mount plate to suit the new position.  It just worked better for the exhaust.

as Ben says drop the motor in attach the mounts and see where they sit on the crossmember.. tweak it until you are happy then tack them in.

Make sure you can get the motor sitting in a position where you get the least angle on the driveline.  the wgon again was set up by redrilling the engine mount plates to allow the motor to sit down nicely.  Many conversions have the motor sitting up sky high to either clear the front rack or just because they used the CRS set up as is.

It does make a difference when you align the driveshaft with the diff pinion and gearbox.

Im trying to find some pics of the motor set up but unfortunately I have none of the cross member alone.

I guess you should have the rails in, idea of where the crossmember will be and your engine and gearbox in as a unit.

Adjust the height so your box angles are Ok and support in place you may need to tack together some sort of brace and with any luck your motor should be in the right spot too.  Chalk marks on the floor would help to see how far on/off centre you are in relation to the diff pinion as well.

all fun Mikey, be prepared to pull your motor in/out alot. I certainly lost count after a dozen times... the upside is you get really fast at pulling the motor out singlehandedly.

Cheers

Ed

[mikey]

Hi Ed,
                After considering your info I have decided to cut off the existing mounts and make stronger ones and as you suggest weld them in the position when I have the motor mocked up in place.

Will be happier with beefier mounts and not happy with weld job on existing mounts either.

Thanks for the help.

Cheers  M