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Author Topic: Gear Selector Tube tips  (Read 2837 times)
Martin
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« on: January 27, 2006, 03:06:47 PM »
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The bloody selector tube in Jim has just broken and I'll need to take it out to repair it.   Angry

Apart from what's in the workshop manual, does anybody have any tips to make it easier, or cautions about things I should not do (cos sure as hell I'll do 'em).  Huh

Thanks for your help  Smiley

Martin
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Martin
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mcl1959
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« Reply #1 on: January 28, 2006, 04:34:47 AM »
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I probably wouldn't bother trying to repair it - just replace it.  It has to slide very neatly between the honeypot internals and once it is broken it is difficult to repair properly.  The reason why it is difficult to rpair is because it is a strip of steel wrapped around the tube then bronzed in place.  To fix you need to repair the steel and this can only be done by eliminating all the bronze, then welding.  Then it has to be ground to fit back in place.  I'm not saying it can't be fixed - just easier to get another one.

Ken

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Martin
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« Reply #2 on: January 28, 2006, 01:32:05 PM »
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Thanks for the tip, Ken.  At this stage I don't even know where/how it's broken.  I've stuffed my back, so am a bit buggered at the moment and can't get to it.

Next question:  Do you know where I can get a replacement in good condition?  And how do I ensure the replacement won't let go the week after i put it in?

Is this a weakness with the FE/FCs?

Martin
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Martin
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« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2006, 01:53:01 AM »
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Martin,
Im sure i could dig one up for you and when it is out  i will inspect it for any visible cracks (to the naked eye)

weakness did you mention weakness Shocked there are no guarantees to longevity as this is a well used part and it depends how hard the gear changer is. (ie. previous owner/yourself) and adjustment of linkages to aid in a smooth and effortless gearchange.Just remember to grease everything very well on reassembly and adjust all linkages (as these to will have lots of wear as well)for an easy gear change.

You know your going to have to stop doing all those reverse to firsty's power takeoffs Grin it takes its toll on shifters you know..........
cheers
Scott
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« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2006, 06:41:08 AM »
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Yes very common FE and FC weakness.  The FB model revised the upper end of the shifter tube where the gear stick attaches to the tube.  I have them available but obviously guarantees cannot be made.
Lubrication and adjustment is vital as Scott has mentioned as well as shift method.

When you shift do you push straight through from 1st to 2nd?
This is one of the worst things to do to a column shift.  I recommend coming out of first pulling slightly forward until you are out of gear, then slide the shifter through the gate into the second/third position, then upwards into second.
Believe it or not but this is the way I change gear EVERY SINGLE TIME I drive the car.  It takes a little time to master to get into a smooth action but your steering linkages will thank you.

Ken
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Martin
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« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2006, 02:04:47 PM »
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Thanks, Scott and Ken.

Waddaya reckon, Scott - do you think I look like the boy racer doing quick shifts and wheelies?  Huh

Ken, sounds like you're stirring a pudding - good tips for all drivers.  The adjustment I have on my reversing light switch means that if I try to jam the change from 1 to 2, I catch the switch and hear it ckicking off the selecter lever. So I try to avoid that by taking the shift deliberately and slowly. (I had an FB many years ago - much less respect for that than I have for the FC Wink )

I'll let you know about the tube - I'll be out of action for a couple of weeks so won't be able to take the old tube out for a while.

Martin
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Martin
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« Reply #6 on: January 29, 2006, 02:12:24 PM »
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You forget marty i have the photo evidence of you posing like a homie at the lofty Grin with the torch no less.
They say you never really grow up.
cheers
Scott
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Martin
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« Reply #7 on: January 31, 2006, 01:54:44 PM »
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mongrel
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Martin
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