CRS chassis kit help

[Jonno]

Has anyone recently fitted a CRS chassis kit to an FE/FC? I've just been test-fitting one and, well, it doesn't seem to fit. The gap on the U-section at the front of the main rail is about 42mm whereas my floor crossmembers (FE ute) are about 47mm.  Doesn't sound like much of a difference but the rails certainly don't 'slip over the floor member' as the instruction suggest they should.

I will contact CRS about this but just thought I had better make sure that my car did not have a non-standard floor cross member fitted first..

any comments most appreciated.

Jonno

[fcfromscratch]

Hi Jonno,

I have fitted one to my FC, one side the "U" section slipped over like a "glove on a hand"...but the other side was not going to happen unassisted.  What I found was that the crossmember section had been deformed by jacking the vehicle up using it as the point of support...a little crushing had occurred and the width increased.  I got a "G" clamp with two pieces of wood and used it to gradually ease the cross section back into shape such that the "U" section of the chassis kit fitted ok (with only a little persuasion)....

As for the actual dimensions, I can't help there as my car and chassis (or my manual) are not on hand just now, maybe someone else can help with that.  I guess it is not impossible that different size crossmember profiles have been used if replaced....

hope you work it out.....

Brad

[Chuck]

G'day Jonno

It sounds as though your underfloor sub frame has been replaced at some stage with a Rare Spares section (Part No RP20).  These are made of folded sheet and are larger than the standard sub frame (so that you an slip them over the top of the rusted section and weld in place).  What I have done in the past is cut a section on the sub frame open where the chassis rail will slide over the top, strengthen it internally (adding anti crush tubes and extra bracing) and then weld it back together at a thickness to suit the chassis U-section.

Hope this helps - Chuck

[JB]

I agree with Chuck, with mine the underbody crossmember was rotten and bought the rare spares ones... They didn't fit the half chassis so I used them in the ute. As for the Van I had the sections folded to suit the half chassis and then welded them in.
Probably doesn't help much but is what I had to do.

Regards
Jason.

[Jonno]

OK thanks guys. looks like I'm going back to the drawing board for a while...

Jonno

[Ed]

Hey Jonno,

heaps of factors affect the fitup of the kits.

I cut the channel and rewelded it with a wider gap to suit... easiest option.

If u dont have access to a welder any good engineering/welding shop should be able to do it quite cheaply.

1. Cut the existing drilled plate off using a cut off wheel in a grinder.
2. Make 47mm tube spacers to slide over the bolts provided in the CRS kit.
3. Cut a piece of steel to the required width to suit the new 47mm channel. (you may want to bevel the edge 45 degrees for a good strong weld, take into account overlap of the plates.. 50mm steel should probably be ok - and is a std size too)
4. Clean up all other edges to be welded.
5. bolt up the two drilled plates with your 47mm spacers in between to ensure alighment of holes and correct width.
6. weld it up.

see easy!

Cheers

Ed

This should get some strength under the old girl..
These kits are strong... I can place a jack in the middle of the rail with motor and box fitted, and lift 2 wheels off (same side) at the same time.. no bullshit, no flex, well worth the bucks I paid at the time... although could replicate it now cheaper and even better I reckon.

[spinach]

Hey Ed.

In your last post you said you could replicate that CRS chassis kit better and cheaper. I was on the verge of getting the CRS one, could ya tell me what you would do different to the kit? I might just get a mate to try and make me one instead.

thanks

spin.

[Ed]

Hi Spin,

The Y frames that stiffen the subframe are good. No changes there.  (For even more stiffness you could seam weld the entire subframe - I only seam welded the inner lip, but this was primarily for exhaust clearance).

From the front floor cross member back i would raise the entire length of RHS through the floor and actually weld it into (as part of) the floor.  I just think it would be stronger, and would allow better clearance for x-members to ground etc.

Cheaper as in I have the tools to make it myself now (before I didnt), Better as in stronger.

On the downside though, my CRS kit has been fitted so it can be removed from the vehicle, obviously if you weld it in you can't do this.  

Cheers

Ed

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Spinach/Ed

I have to have a kit, I have also been told by others the kit is easy to replicate and for a price a lot cheaper than Mr Hadfield's.

Ed, do you have any drawings of your plan?

Spin, if your mate is going to make you one, would he do 2?

Otherwise, I'll be rolling around the garage floor this week with a tape measure

[Ed]

Hi Stinky,

I have absolutely no plans!

I can take various measurements of my CRS kit if you wish.  The only difference being the RHS would go thru the floor rather than under it.

take a look at Hoopstars HR for a better visual.  In my opinion this is one of the best documented engineered V8 Old Holdens around.

http://www.hr350.com2.info/

My engineer was going to weld mine thru the floor, but because I already had the CRS kit, used it instead.

Even if you are going to replicate the CRS kit they are pretty easy to do.  A drop saw capable of cutting accurate angles and a welder being the major tools required.

Cheers

Ed

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Cheers Ed.
I might even go there for a look! I bought some mags off him the other week.

[spinach]

hey stinky, my brains actually started to work and I've had an idea!

If you can get some measurments and a rough design on this chassis kit, hand 'em over to me and I'll use some bodily harm on my mate and force him to knock a couple of them up.

let me know if your keen.

Luke

[Jockster]

Hey Guys
Be real careful about this is the CRS Kit is a registered copyright you could get into a lot of strife posting any plans on an open forume, you would be better to revert to personal e-mails
Cheers
Jock

[sgo]

If you get under the car with a tape measure, some scissors and card-board to make templates of some of the angles, it isn't to hard to come up with a design that ties the rear spring mount area to the front floor crossmember.From there to the Y frame can be achieved by using the old grey gearbox mount brackets already bolted to the Y frame to weld the next length of new chassis to.
As has been suggested you could go further and tie the new chassis to the floor,or even vertically just to the various crossmembers under the floor.
Maybe even some extra pieces sideways to the sills for some side impact protection?
Whatever you add can only incease the strength and stiffness of an ageing body!
( I think I should have thought twice about that last sentence)

[Ed]

Good point Jock,

Although in principle the chassis strenghtening would work the same, in design it would probably vary (as per sgo's last post).

where's sgo   probably down at the shops trying to find something to add here and there  

Cheers

Ed

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

spinach
I'll be crawling (under the car) soon and I will let you know.

For time and simplicity's sake I will probably end up buying a Hadfield kit, I am hanging out to get in decent car this cruising season and don't want to be stuffing around too much.

A chassis shop in Adelaide can't do any work until the end of Jan and would prolly cost $1000+, for a fully welded job.

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Spinach
Went to the engineer today, to cut a long story short, I will save myself a heap of time and grief by buying off the shelf. I have placed an order with Rod Hadfield and should have the kit next Wednesday.
If you want to come over to take a look/pictures/measurements/whatever you are quite welcome.

[spinach]

cheers for that mate, I might just take you up on that offer. swap a few photos for a couple quiet beers.

Luke