FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum
November 17, 2024, 07:30:46 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: The FE-FC Holden Car Club of NSW are proud to host the 19th FE-FC Holden Nationals. Check out the announcement video for more.
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Add bookmark  |  Print  
Author Topic: Steering - Idler Arm Replacement  (Read 3568 times)
Rod
Senior Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 413


I love YaBB 1 Gold!


View Profile
« on: April 05, 2009, 07:40:03 PM »
0

Hi All,
I am in the process of taking up some slack in the steering. Approximately 12 months ago I replaced the king pins and  steering tube. There is still a little movement in the steering and tends to wonder on occasions. The wheel bearings need to be adjusted (or replaced) due to some movement there.In the rear end there has been some movement of the diff on the springs. When I tightened the u bolts up it made a significant difference.However,I am going to replace the insulator rubbers as well.

I have just purchased a new idler arm and want to install.The problem lies that the manual says to to disconnnect it from the steering tube. I am a little reluctant to do this as I have not long had a wheel alignment done and I don't want to undo the specs of toe in /out. Is it possible to undo the plug on the end of the tube, counting the number of turns until it comes out. Then disconnect the idler arm and replace the plug with the appropriate number of turns. If I do this will this mean that I can get away without getting another alignment done.

I also want to adjust the lash in the steering box and the manual says you need to disconnect the pitman arm from the tube also. I was going to follow the about technique hopefully.

Any comments or thoughts would be most appreciated.

Cheers

Rod
Logged
mcl1959
vic-club
Guru
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6155


FE's rule


View Profile
« Reply #1 on: April 05, 2009, 06:57:24 PM »
0

Rod, the idler arm nut is usually very tight in the end of the arm. This is why you need to remove the arm so you can hold it securely.
The steering lash can be done by just loosening the locknut and doing up the bolt with a screw driver until it just gets firm, then lock up the nut again. Because the adjustment is so simple you can try different settings to see how they feel on the road.

Ken
Logged
Rod
Senior Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 413


I love YaBB 1 Gold!


View Profile
« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2009, 08:18:12 AM »
0

Thanks as usual for the reply Ken. By disconnecting the idler arm as discussed and reintalling the plug the appropriate number of turns, will I still need to get a wheel alignment?

Cheers

Rod
Logged
EffCee
Guru
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1359


F4+


View Profile
« Reply #3 on: April 06, 2009, 08:28:50 AM »
0

Thanks as usual for the reply Ken. By disconnecting the idler arm as discussed and reintalling the plug the appropriate number of turns, will I still need to get a wheel alignment?

Cheers

Rod

In short yes, however as you have suggested, disconnenct, count the turns, re- install the plug and see how it goes from there. The reason that I say this is the adjustment for the toe-in is done at the tie rods. These are located between the pitman arm and the idler arm. So long as you haven't introduced movement in the drag link then all will be fine. Also check that the steering linkages do not bind. Take for a drive around the block, checking that the steering wheel still returns to centre, that you cannot turn the steering wheel more one way than the other, and the vehicle doesn't wander or pull to one side. If all of the above are OK then I would think that have it pretty spot on. From that point, keep an eye on our tyres for any signs of feathering or other abnormal tyre wear.

Keith
Logged

Canberra, ACT

F4+ Wink
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Add bookmark  |  Print  

Share this topic...
In a forum (BBCode) 
In a site/blog (HTML)

 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.043 seconds with 20 queries.