Rustproofing

[pedro]

The sills on my wagon are still good so i won't be taking them off, but i'm concerned about any rust on the inside eating it's way out, I was thinking about plugging the drain holes, filling the sills with fisholene and leaving it for a couple of days before draining them, does anyone have have any better ideas or know of any products that would do a better job.
                                                                 

[Johns]

Hi Pedro.

Fish oil is horrible, smelly, filthy stuff

Rather than fish oil, I would use an aerosol cavity wax product with very good flow/penetration characteristics. The best I have used is expensive and difficult to find, from memeory its made by Wurth(?). It flows really well using the plastic tube inserted in the nozzle. Failing that most readily avaiable product will be suitable. Drill some large holes under the scuff plates fill the sills and after, cover them with grommets. You wont need to block the drain holes.



Cheers
John

[pedro]

Thanks i presume you mean an expanding foam type of product, will it soak into the rust and kill it, I would have liked to have used a rust converter but it would have taken a lot to fill the sill and it's pretty expensive, I suppose my best option would be to talk to someone in a paint shop. All our cars would have been in a lot better nick if they had done it when they were building them.

[Johns]

No, its not expanding foam, it's cavity wax. It will neutralise rust and then seal the surface. Most good accessory shops stock it.

Cheers
John

[pedro]

Thanks again, i'll check it out .

[KFH]

Hi Pedro

A product I have used for rust control for many years now is Xtrol.  It is used in bridge building and heavy duty and many other applications.  I have coated steel that has had rust on it  with Xtrol and after 15 years no rust has shown through the covering paint.  It does not have to be over coated and has a clear finish . When I have finished restoring my FC I intend to spray this product in every nook and cranny that I can fit a thin nossle into.  It is water thin and flows readily and covers a large area with little product. The last time I purchased some about 6 months ago the cost for 1 litre was $33.00.

I trialled it on the back of a few panels for the FC and found that there was a little bit of "frying" of the Xtrol when coated later with a lacquer based primer.  I contacted Xtrol and they told me that there was an Xtrol product to act as an isolator coat or I could just give it a couple of very light mist coats of lacquer first and leaving it flash off in between coats.

This is the web site for the applications of the product.

http://www.corrosion-tech.com.au/Xtroll/Applications/applications.html

John's idea of putting some holes under the sill to get into the cavity is good.  Some restorers up this way also mentioned to place ice cream tins under any place where it can run out of so you can reuse what is caught.  A kero gun with the appropriate nossle/tubing make an ideal applicator.

Keith

[tubbed58]

hi pedro K&H also make the same product as wurth, ive found that you want to get a good rust converter in the inner of the sills before you coat them with any fish oil and or cavity wax as who knows whats going on in there and over the years of doing many restos for customers i still havnt had much of a drama with sill panels rusting.If you can also get your hands on some of that WAX GAURD product  the rust proofing companies use its thick and gets in everywhere. hope this helps

cheers dave

[crashbox]

g'day all,

a simple cheep way that i still use, is to use kero mixed in with new motor oil,put it in a decent oil can shake well.....block all drain holes temporary with plasticeen...yep thats rite,very easy to close up those unusal drain holes....and its cheep/easy to buy.....squirt the kero/oil in doors,sill panels/quarters etc.....now go use the car as per usual ,go to the shops,to the drive in,wot ever..........all the drivin will splash  the kero/oil brew around and get into everything.......leave for about a week.....now remove the plasticeen put old ice cream containers under the drian holes to catch overflow.......job finished instant  rustproofing.....done this to my fc had it now  for 20 +odd years done this "home brew rustproofing" a couple of times over the years to  my fc.....guess wot ..NO RUST...original sills /quarters/doors ......

PS.....dont let the do this procedure just after you have washed ya car or if its just been raining

[NO NAME]

i used killrust in my sills, it just seems to be a oily enamel that gets in everywere and sticks to anything, from my experience it sticks better than po 15, over that i have cavity wax, i think its k&h, it didnt come with a tube like the wurth one must, i just bought it in autobahn becuase i needed it on a thursday night.

[NO NAME]

Thanks i presume you mean an expanding foam type of product, will it soak into the rust and kill it, I would have liked to have used a rust converter but it would have taken a lot to fill the sill and it's pretty expensive, I suppose my best option would be to talk to someone in a paint shop. All our cars would have been in a lot better nick if they had done it when they were building them.

i dont know if this is the right way to do it but or if you could get into a closed off sill.
i use a strong rust converter, diluted with about 25% water in a big cayon (or what ever that brand is) spray bottle, you get these from any detailing supplier, i have 1 for acid and 1 for metho, you need the big ones for acid, they are about $6 each, if you use acid in it rinse the sprayer out after you use it.
 i spray acid everywere i can reach, you can turn the nozzle down to spray a stream of about 5 metres.
 i let the acid soak, if you can reach anywere you scrub that bit with a scourer, any assistance you can give it is good.
 then when there is whitish dry spots (probably about 15-20 minutes inside a sill at 20 degrees) you hose it with as good a pressure as you can get then immediately blow it out with a air gun then immediately squirt in as much metho as possible then blow it out again with the air gun.
 you want ALL that acid out, the metho speeds up drying and helps dry crevices, you want it to dry as quick as possible, you can then repeat it again if you are keen.
 you dont want acid left behind in seems, it can bring on further rust so try to give it a good rinse.
dont worry if there is a white residue left behind, this is good, its bad if there is a sticky residue, not that you can feel around inside your sills.
 i dont know how you could do this with a fully closed off sill but thats how i clean out any boxed bits.

[FC427]

FCCOOL When you say ACID what type of ACID did you use Did you neutralise the ACID with a ALKALI after???  .......FC427.......

[pedro]

Thanks for the tips, the xtroll product sounds good, if it works on boat trailers and other marine applications it must be pretty tough, painting over it won't be a problem as i'm only using it on internals, if i use it and then fill with cavity wax there should never be a problem with rust again.

[NO NAME]

FCCOOL When you say ACID what type of ACID did you use Did you neutralise the ACID with a ALKALI after???  .......FC427.......

no, how would you know it was nutual, if it was too alkaline it would rust too wouldnt it?, but you could probaly give it a spray with any brown water based degreaser after you rinse the acid then dry it but ive never seen it tried or recomended. it would nuatralise and further clean.

[NO NAME]

for strong on pitted stuffi usually just use septone rust convertor, for clean prepped panels i use concept light metal conditioner, i dont think they are great, just easy to get around here on a saturday.

[tubbed58]

 from using the wurth rust converter on many applications i would highly recomend it as you see it change colour it is a light purple when you apply and goes dark purple when treated and dried .Its fairly expensive but worth every cent many mates in other panel shops love it as well and can dries fairly good after 24hrs

cheers dave

[pedro]

I think my biggest problem will be availability here in Hervey bay, I'm pretty sure we don't even have a full on car paint shop, next time i'm in town i will see what is available, there is no rush as it's going to be a few more weeks till i can afford to send the old girl goes to the sandblasters .

[Brad]

Hey Pedro.
             You should be able to buy the Septone converter at SupaCheap. I use it and find it works ok but I don't dilute it and I rinse throughly with metho.
                           Brad

[NO NAME]

you can buy the septone at most auto paint suppliers, supercheap and k mart.

[pedro]

Thanks pm greyone/Mal, still haven't gotten around to doing anything about it yet, cool how you have lights flashing on your car pic

[greyone]

ph no for wurth )0395529552 they have 200 reps aust wide shoud be one close