Axle Removal

[Rod]

Hi

Are there any hints for removing a stubborn rear axle if a slide hammer isn't available. Replacing diff centre, one axle popped out easy, the other one won't budge.

Reluctant to heat diff housing as I dont wont to damage bearings or seal.

Hints would be appreciated

Rod

[Jockster]

Rod, it is likely that the axle is stuck on the spline anyway so heating the diff housing would have no effect. If its the right side axle and it has been in the car a while it is possible the spline has a slight twist in it and has locked itself to the diff spline, if that is the case then a slide hammer is your only option without possible damage occurring to other components. If you have another axle and backing plate assembly then a big hammer and a smack on the back plate will usually dislodge the axle, but invariably damages the backing plate.
Cheers
Jock

[mcl1959]

Try bolting an old drum to the axle - but on backwards.  Dont tighten it up just a few turns on the threads and then use the drum as a slide hammer.   If still no go then tighten the drum up and hit the drum in order to free the axle.  Be advised that if you hit the drum to remove the axle, the drum will be no good after that.

Ken

[Brad]

Rod
I'd try Kens idea first ,but if It still wont come another option is to use the wheel nuts and a couple of washers to bolt both ends of a length of chain to the axle  studs ( I used about two meters ). Then run a length of heavy gal water pipe or something similar through the loop in the chain up to the center of the pipe. Get a mate and each grab an end  of the pipe and start swinging. I used this method on a very stubborn ford nine inch with a collapsed bearing that had eaten into the diff housing.  B T W  The pipe should be horizontal and parallel to the car.
                           Brad.

[FB_MAD]

I've got a simple home made one that I welded up in an hour.

Piece of 10 mm  flat bar, 2 holes drilled to go over wheel studs then tighten up with wheel nuts.
Then a solid round bar about 13 mm dia and about 75 cm long and the end welded in the middle of  the flat bar at 90 degrees.

Last is a 2 foot length of solid round bar about 50 mm diameter.
Drill a 15 mm hole in the middle of this across the diameter of the bar.

Fit over the end of the 13 mm round bar so the 50 mm bar basically becomes a T handle slide hammer and finally weld a large nut on the end of the 13 mm round bar to act as a stop for the slide hammer.
Make sure your welds are good or you'll wear the slide hammer.

Works best with 2 people using the slide.Made from scrap steel I had laying around and has taken out a few stubborn axles no problems.

You could slot the flat bar/wheel stud holes to make it a more universal fit slide hammer for other makes.

Hope this helps,

Terry.

[Rod]

Thanks for your replies everyone.
Ken I use the reverse drum method to no avail. I didn't try hitting the drum as I didn't have a spare one. Likewise Jock I didn't have a spare backing plate.

Brad I tried a similiar method to yours. I folded up some flat steel on one end and drilled a hole and attached to one  stud with washes behind it. The steel was about 1 metre long. At the opposite end I folded a loop / hook. The hook was in line with the centre of the axle. Then I got a crow bar and did what you suggested hitting the bar into the hook. Still no avail.

I then resorted to another suggestion given to me. It consisted of a length of 6mm rod which I moulded to slide past the spider gear. I was able to get it past but the rod wasn't strong enough when I hit the end.

Would you believe I was "p"ed off and then decided to cut some wood using a block slitter. It then came to me use the bent steel attached to the stud and unstead of the crow bar I slid the splitter along the steel and hit the hook. Bingo. Two slides and the axle was free.

Thanks everyone for you help. I hope my unorthodox method may help others in the future.

Cheers


Rod

[Brad]

Rod
               Glad to see you got It out
                                           Brad.