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Author Topic: Tips on panel removal needed  (Read 2973 times)
SRVLIVES
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« on: December 02, 2005, 12:47:38 AM »
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Going down to the panel shop on Saturday to remove the doors and guards from my FC so's they can fit the new sills.

As each model car has it's own little quirks and I've never pulled an FC apart before, any little tips or traps anyone can share to save me a little time and grief?
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« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2005, 01:55:18 AM »
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Shane
       I've got a couple of tips for you.
When removing the guards there is 3 or 4 bolts that need to be removed from inside the cab behind the kick panels, you can't see them but trust me they are there.

When removing the doors have someone with you to help with holding the door up while you undo them,
with the front doors undo the bolts on the door that way it leaves the hinges in position.
Before starting mark a scribe line on the hinge where the door sits so you can put it back on in the same position.

With the back doors I also undid the bolts on the door again leaving the hinges in position as they can be a pain to readjust  

Glenn
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SRVLIVES
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« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2005, 01:59:34 AM »
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Quote
Shane
       I've got a couple of tips for you.
When removing the guards there is 3 or 4 bolts that need to be removed from inside the cab behind the kick panels, you can't see them but trust me they are there.


I had a feeling about that.

Quote
When removing the doors have someone with you to help with holding the door up while you undo them,


Busy Saturday? Smiley

Quote
with the front doors undo the bolts on the door that way it leaves the hinges in position.
Before starting mark a scribe line on the hinge where the door sits so you can put it back on in the same position


Good tip, I was unsure of whether to leave the hinges on or not.
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« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2005, 05:01:37 AM »
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sir lives, another little trick i was told is that if you dont have someone helping with the doors you can use a trolley jack or 2 if you have them, place them under the door to support it while undoing the hinges, also if the glass is removed first this makes them a little lighter and easier to hold.

and dont forget the three bolts behind the kick panels when your putting it all back together otherwise you may have very wet feet when it rains.

dean
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craiga
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« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2005, 05:14:57 AM »
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Undo/loosen all door hinge bolts at the door side. Remove the outers and you can put the upper door frame on your shoulder and remove the remaining bolts.

No need for friends or jacks that way ;-)

When you're reassembling put a light smear of grease on all the threads and on the rear of the hinge plate where it contacts the door frame. this will allow you to move the door under adjustment.

Glenn's tip of scribing the hinges is a real good one, it can be fiddly adjusting the doors otherwise, especially if you've removed the guards as well and don't have them as a reference. When you reassemble you can put the doors on first, then adjust the guards for gap/position, relative to the door. Unless you REALLY have to, I wouldn't be removing the hinge assy.

When you put that top guard bolt back in (the one up past the kick panels) put some sikaflex or other sealing compound on it, this will prevent leaks in the future.

Cheers,

Craig.





« Last Edit: December 02, 2005, 05:15:47 AM by craiga » Logged
SRVLIVES
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« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2005, 05:34:53 AM »
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Excellent tips fellas! Smiley

I was actually thinking about resting the doors on say, a milk crate, as I'll be doing it myself.

Thanks for the help.
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SRVLIVES
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« Reply #6 on: December 04, 2005, 04:21:32 AM »
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Ran out of time today, and am going back out again shortly (don't you just love this time of year?)

Going down tomorrow morning before the Christmas party, will only be taking a few tools with me, what size sockets/spanners will I need?... and anything else?
« Last Edit: December 04, 2005, 04:22:02 AM by SRVLIVES » Logged

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