CAM GRINDING

[TorqueFC]

just wondering if anyone knew of a place that could make a really lumpy cam to suit grey motor, preferably in vic but may consider nsw etc

cheers
torque

[Burnsy]

Try:

Clive Cams
31a Metropolitan Ave
Nunawading Vic 3131

He did a cam for one of the guys over here.  Not lumpy but I am sure if you have the specs they will grind it.

Cheers,
Burnsy

[TorqueFC]

see theres the problem

we want an extremely lump cam....but dont really know how to express this in specifications

sound it needs to make is plop plop plop........lol

any way hopefully someone can give some good specs or something that may help

cheers
torque

[GOA350]

Try Wade Cams in west Melbourne he has heeps of experience in Grey motors

[FB_MAD]

     Whoever you find to do a cam grind should ask you a lot of questions regarding the mods to be done on the motor and other specs of the drive train Eg diff ratio.For example fitting a higher performance spec cam in an otherwise standard motor won't achieve much.The engine has to be in good condition.You really have to have a proven list of performance mods that will add up to a performance package.Multiple carbs,extractors and head mods to improve the engine breathing and a good matching cam will bring on good improvement in output but remember the old grey engine design dates back to the engines that were made in the 1930's so it does have limitations.
   With regard to the "plop,plop,plop"sound just remember that bigger isn't always better.The factory cam was a very low spec cam mainly designed for low speed torque(hence the greys ability to do a standing start in top gear).The plop,plop,plop may sound great but may end up an unreliable pig of a thing to drive,believe me,I've been there and spent lots of $$$ in my earlier years doing mods to my cars and have been disappointed by not following advice from those I should have.
    That said,I'm not trying to be a smart arse up on my soapbox,just trying to help and trying to save you dollars as well.I'm sure the two contacts mentioned previously will give you good advice.Wade cams have been around for years and I have used their cams and they are rip snorters. Hope this info helps, good luck and have fun,regards Terry. P.S. When you choose a cam and fit it to the engine,let us know how it goes.
   
   

[craiga]

sound it needs to make is plop plop plop

Punch a hole in the exhaust and pull the choke out.  

[RET]

Punch a hole in the exhaust and pull the choke out.  

Give it some dashboard cam.  LMAO

[TorqueFC]

the motor that the cam was going to go in was fully rebuilt not that long ago. already have some extractors so thats one thing we dont have to worry about. as for the head, it will be ported if possible (any info on this) and also hopefulyl some larger valves.

we werent really going to do anything except get the head checked and slide a lumpy cam in it. we arent really to worried about how bad the thing is to drive, its only going to be a cruiser and be driven not even 1000 kms before it will be pulled out and replaced with a GENIII

anyway

cheers
torque

[RET]

Sounds like way too much effort to go to for 1000 miles.  Too many opportunities to break something for no readily apparent benefit.  Not my car, though Do what you want.

cheers
RET

[craiga]

Darcy,

If you have ever driven a grey motor with a 40/80 cam and a crashbox you would be thinking twice about this. Remember, with no synchro on first you have to almost stop to get first gear, so as you start to slow down due to lights or traffic in your lumpy grey you shift out of third into second (you need to do this because the brakes only slow you down, not stop) and get to a speed under about 10 - 15 miles an hour the traffic starts to move again. No worries just put your foot down in second and off you go. Wrong. The thing will bog down, cough and splutter so you'll have to go back to first. This means slowing down and almost stopping.

Do this a few times and you'll be wishing you stayed with a more manageable package, like some extractors, twin strommies, and a 25/65 camshaft. Maybe even a bit of the port work and bigger valves you spoke about.

Add these to some lower profile tyres and the stock 3.89 diff ratio and the thing will be a bit of fun. Find an old hot dog muffler and it'll even sound the part. Might even be good for a few single spinner wheelies - but only on full right lock with a big clutch dump.

Ahhh the memories  

Keep at it Darcy, your enthusiasm for this stuff is what we all had at your age, and still have!

Cheers,

Craig.

[HYSTERIA]

Hi guys, Just thought I'd let you know that I have just been through this very same ordeal, when rebuilding my grey I wanted a big cam with a nice lumpy idol as well but was talked out of it by the cam grinder mentioned above. (clive cams). I was told that if you go for a lumpy style cam in the grey motors they will just use a lot more fuel and loose all of their torque making them a pig to drive on the street. I chose a grind recomended by clive for a street use grey motor, it doesn't really have a lumpy idol but the motor runs like a swiss clock, I'm very glad I took his advice.

Even with the street cam i have, there is a noticable drop in torque, not enough to make it a pain to drive, but on those slow 2nd gear take offs you have to give it a fair bit more gas and a bit more clutch to get her up and going again.

I can post up the cam grind specs if you like, but if you use clive cams, just ask for a grey motor grind number 82.

The other mods to my motor are

ported and polished head
red motor valves
350 chev valve springs
80 thou head mill
40 thou over bore
twin strommies
extractors
lightened clutch
steel timing gear
port matched inlet and exhaust

i can't tell you guys how well it runs, a lot of guys gave me sh#t for spending so much time and effort on a grey but the end result is fantastic.

Go the greys

Jason

[SRVLIVES]

we want an extremely lump cam....but dont really know how to express this in specifications

sound it needs to make is plop plop plop........lol

Why don't you try Schithead Racing Cams?

[FB_MAD]

      Hi Torquefc.I'd look at a similar engine to what Hysteria has got as it seems like a sensible and driveable combination.CraigA's suggestions also should be looked at as it seems he is talking from experience. You just can't learn experience from a blackboard!
      I did have a printout years ago of the factory grey motor cam specs but can't find it now however I just looked up the specs in "Gregorys workshop manual"and it lists the cams specs as follows:- Inlet opens 6 degrees before top dead centre,Exhaust closes 12.5 degrees after top dead centre.Not really a high spec cam. EH,HD,HR reds had the following:-Inlet opens 35 degrees B.T.D.C,Exhaust closes 40 degress A.T.D.C by comparisan(except X2 engines).
      When I was an apprentice mechanic in the early '80's Repco did a cam grind for me for a grey I was building.From memory it was a 23/60,sort of a mild to light mid range grind similar to the one Craig A mentioned.I never fitted it but it would have made a nice driver with other engine mods.
      As Hysteria mentioned,cam grinders will always talk you down from the wild cam you want as they know what the result will be......a hard to start,unreliable pig of an engine and a very unhappy customer.Do yourself a favour and don't go for "plop,plop,plop".Hope this info helps,regards Terry.

[TorqueFC]

now

slight changes in what the motor mods will be. it will have twin strommies, ported head, 202 valves and a hole bunch of other stuff.

now anyone got a suggestion on what cam would be suitable

ps: we have also aquired an all sincro box read for it

[HYSTERIA]

The cam I mentioned above would be a good match.

If you want specific specs, send me a PM and I'll mail them back to you.

Jay

[craiga]

we have also aquired an all sincro box read for it

If your going to chop up the floor to fit the non-synchro gearbox doesn't that mean you'll need an engineers certificate? If so, you should REALLY think about a 186/202. A well tuned stock version of each of these engines will outperform most modifed greys anyway. Much cheaper to rebuild, easier to get parts, and not much extra work. Sure you'll need a HR front end, but with it will come brakes that actually work and more importantly SAFETY. If you work a grey you might go faster but you'll still have a car that stops, or should I say slows down, like a 50 year old Holden.

Think lots before you go ahead, do it once and do it properly. You won't regret it.

Cheers,

Craig.

[Sarge]

Darcy
       Save your cash and go straight to the GENIII mod.
Sounds to me as your just throughing good money at a project for no reason..

Cheers
Sarge