Brake Pedal Setup

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Currently I have an LC Torana brake booster mounted directly to the firewall of the FE.
I was going to set up the connection between the booster yoke and pedal with a modified original yoke (see picture) but with the pushrod removed and extra metal welded on to put a pin through and connect to the booster yoke.
This setup works and I have full travel, the pedal does not quite hit the floor, but I have lost the adjustability of the original yoke/pushrod.

My question is, do I really need adjustment in this set-up?

[GOA350]

Im sorry but that just doesnt look right to me. There must be a better way. I would think you need the adjustment.
                         cheers        
                                 GOA350

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Yeah, I'm not real happy with it either.
An alternative would be to box the yoke on the booster and shorten the original pedal push-rod to fit.
I guess the adjustment will be needed to keep the pedal up and switching the brake light switch off.

[Effie C]

Adjustment is also required to allow for free travel adjustment; without free travel you run the risk of the master cyclinder staying slightly on and therefore having brake drag.
Effie C

[mcl1959]

I don't think that technically it is any different to later booster connections to pedals which involve a bent pushrod and solid connection to the pedal.
You must ensure that the booster is not preloaded
You must ensure that any welding on brake parts is super strong and top quality.
You must use a hardened pin for the clevis joint.  Not a bolt

Ken

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Thanks Ken, I was hoping that you would offer up advice (no offence meant to others).
There is no pre-load on the booster and I still have to fit the return spring which guarantees that.
The only welding was on the connecting bracket I made, it seems pretty tough to me.
The pins in place are original brake parts, one from the torrie and one from the FE.
Does that mean this setup is OK after all?