lead wiping

[fceedave]

g,day,  I have seen streetneats push button door openers and would like to do the same .  In his story he uses leadwiping, instead of filler i presume.   Can leadwiping be used in general instead of bog??   I want to do this myself but am having trouble finding the correct method.  any info would be apprieciated.

cheers

dave

[fe2ek]

I would like to know too and i can get heaps of lead.
Cheers Geoff

[streetneat]

Sorry I had not noticed this posting earlier - but I wasent aninstant message alerting me to this - so here goes-I will add more detail if required. TRy this link to my site and it shows  some insights on how to do this -
http://gallery.oldholden.com/Streetneats-secrets-shared?page=1
This shows a little on it and more importantly a lot on FC redmotor conversions and radiator mods etc.
this link will show more specifically the leadwiping process;
http://gallery.oldholden.com/EK-Van-Chop?page=10
I use KEMTEX paste for tinning and a henrob torch with soldering attachment. Its pretty easy - if not unhealthy way of ensuring you have no shrink back-unlike plastic fillers. Its old technology and is not really always the best.  Used mostly for joins  that are likely to rear their ugly heads down the track - or in high wear areas like push buttons.
Remember to epoxy prime over lead  with PPG DP40 b4 attempting to do any bog work over lead. ...or any other sort of work. The epoxy primer must be left for 24-48 hours before being touched  and is  the best adhesion promotor on the planet for doing bog work over - the days of bogging over bare steel are long gone... All plastic fillers should be applied over epoxyprimers  when doing largish repairs.
You cannot epoxy prime over  arylic etch primer - the only stuff it wont stick to - PPG DP40 is great over plastics and fibreglass too.
Cheers hope this helps..... streetneat......

[PanelAndSpray]

G'day Streetneat, nice post. Just had something to add to your advice to the forum.  There is nothing wrong with using plastic fillers. I too use lead in some of the most awkward of places when repairing sheet metal, however, sometimes it's just not practical to apply lead.  

The only reason that plastic fillers and some paints refuse to stick to the lead is because the lead has not been leached properly after application.  Lead and it's counterpart, 'FLUX' or KEMTEX as you referred to it has oil in it inherent as part of its makeup.  This oil must be leached out using either thinners or Prepsol, I prefer to use Prepsol.  This process can take some time and many repeated applications but is still way cheaper than using PPG's product DP40.

After checking out your link on what seems like a very nice EK Mod, I assume that you etch primed the bare metal before applying paint?  Etch priming areas that have been lead loaded is mandatory, after all, etch primer has an acid component which is designed to work as an adhesive agent for upper coats.

Keep up the good work.

Regards,

PanelAndSpray

[streetneat]

 I also have no issue of the correct use of plastic fillers... Even though Iprefer to use a finishing putty such as Dolphin Glaze  when it comes to plastic fillers.
The product designed for leadwiping  and coating various other substrates is PPG DP40. I t must be left 24 hrs b4 appling anything over the top of it and is far better an adhesion promotor than any other product for subsequent plastic fillers or primer coats. Its just about imperative its used over lead these days.  The use of prepwash or acrylic etc primers is not quite the same - sure it may work in some situations but you speak of PPG DP40 as expensive - not when you consider the effort required to bleach the leaded surface- which BTW Is still good practise.  DP 40 is by far a superior product than the wattyl etch - which I use as well in different applications.
I put up a post today on oldholden.com warning people not to be fooled by baremetal projects in glossy mags - they still end up haveing a fair  smear of smoo and a fair amount of polyester( spraybog) applied b4 painting - what looks straight in bare steel is far from straight in reality. Hammering and filing has that effect.... - unless its a new panel - this is fact. I have been to the states and met with some of the legends of body work and each of them pointed this same thing out to me.
 I have only perpetuated the myth- unfortunatley- that lead wiping is the ultimate way to go -  I only did this as the EK Van was to be displayed in bare steel and needed a way to prevent shrinkback on roof joins - hence the lead wiping and file finishing .
One really important area I feel should defintley be lead wiped is the push buttons - these need all the help they can get and plastic fillers are not going to last with peoples thumbs constantly pushing on such a small area.....
Hope this clarifies my previous statements
Cheers streetneat