mc54
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« on: March 30, 2009, 02:18:30 PM » |
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I have just been quoted a price of $600.00 inc GST to overhaul my gearbox. It seems a little expensive. Can anyone tell me if that is a reasonable price, or should I be looking for someone else to do the job.
Regards Mike
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itb
sa-club
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Posts: 24
I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
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« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2009, 07:52:49 PM » |
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Mike, I had my gearbox reconditioned in S.A. for $350 last November by a gearbox specialist. $600 sounds pretty steep. Sadly, he has just retired but he might do the old g/boxes. If you need a contact number reply to this. By the way Rare Spares does a recond kit for roughly $120 .
ITB
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stapla
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Model: FE
Posts: 197
I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
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« Reply #2 on: April 13, 2009, 10:42:36 PM » |
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please forward his number to me thanks.
peter.
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mc54
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« Reply #3 on: April 14, 2009, 07:28:05 AM » |
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Thanks for that
I have already taken the box for the overhaul. Sydney seems to be more expensive than some other places. Oh well. Believe me, after I was told the price I looked at the rare spares kit and seriously thought about giving it a try myself. If it was easier to get the gearbox in and out I might have. As it is I am working in a very small garage on the floor. I really don't want to have to take the box out a second time if I did something wrong.
Regards Mike
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Dave_EH
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« Reply #4 on: April 15, 2009, 09:50:44 PM » |
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Mike,
Sounds like your extra few hundred dollars may be in labout for removal and refit of box?
Sometimes, when the budget isn't too tight its nice to outsource jobs to a workshop with a hoist when you consider the best part of a weekend would be spent on the concrete on your back.
Dave
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Paul In Ireland
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« Reply #5 on: April 15, 2009, 09:55:42 PM » |
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Can you rent a scissor hoist for a weekend?
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The International FE FC Fleet of Ireland Education is where you read the fine print. Experience is what you get when you don't.
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mc54
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« Reply #6 on: April 16, 2009, 03:39:52 AM » |
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No, I removed, delivered and picked up the box myself. This weekend hopefully I can get it back in.
It's a shame that they did not find a lot wrong with it. Just some chipped syncros. So far I have not found anything really wrong with the clutch or gearbox. Since the box was out I figured I should replace the clutch anyhow.
The syncros have been repaired, new bearings, double ones at the back. Going to put another spigot bushing in this weekend as well. The first one kinda lost the front edge when I put it in and also closed up so this time I have a tool just like in the manual and will try again. There was no wear on the old bushing so I don't think that was the problem but I will post a photo and get some opinions as to whether it has been spinning or not. After this there is nothing more I can do, everything connected to the clutch/transmission is new, including the master cylinder, hose and slave cylinder.
I gotta tell you, I'm going to be very disappointed after all this effort and money when I get it back together, if it still doesn't shift properly.
Regards Mike
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Dave_EH
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« Reply #7 on: April 16, 2009, 09:45:53 PM » |
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What oil have you been using Mike?
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mc54
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« Reply #8 on: April 17, 2009, 04:50:30 AM » |
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I have been using Penrite Transoil 90. It might be a coincidence but the problem seemed to start when I put the wrong oil in. It was only in for a day. When I took it for a drive around the block I found it almost impossible to shift. I took it back home and drained the oil. When I put the correct oil in it improved but has never been right. I have adjusted everything a couple of times.
I even put in a longer rod between the pedal and the master cylinder to make sure I was getting full clutch travel. I found that when I adjusted the pedal according to my manual the rod was too short. I still have not figured how that could happen. I looked under the dash for something bent or broken but found nothing.
That left the clutch as the only thing I had not looked at, so out came the transmission. Clutch looked OK, might have had some grease on it so I replace it all. Spigot bushing looked alright too but when I took it out it looked like it might have spun. Replacing that too.
When I drained the oil from the drain pan I found bits of metal around 2mm in size so the transmission was sent out for repair. All they found was some chips in the syncros (that might have been the problem) so they rebuilt them and replaced bearings etc.
There are a lot of mights here but nothing definite, I would have been much happier to hear that the gears were stuffed or something fell out and that was causing my problem.
On the plus side, Hey I got a new transmission and clutch.
Mike
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mc54
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« Reply #9 on: April 18, 2009, 08:29:51 AM » |
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Never having done one of these before can someone please tell me. I am installing the transmission this weekend. According to my manual I am to pack the inside of the throwout bearing with grease. and coat the outside where the clutch fork rides. I can understand about putting a thin coat on the outside but am a little concerned about packing the inside. If I fill the inner groove with grease what are the chances of it ending up on the clutch plate? What I am asking is where to grease and how much do you use.
Thank You Mike
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mcl1959
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« Reply #10 on: April 18, 2009, 11:48:42 AM » |
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Mike, the area the manual is talking about is where the throwout bearing moves up & down the shaft in the bell housing. The shaft does not spin or move in any way & the the bearing holder does not spin either, just moves up and down each time the clutch is pushed in and out so it is quite safe to do as the manual suggests. You don't want this area to go dry.
Ken
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mc54
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« Reply #11 on: April 18, 2009, 12:03:04 PM » |
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Thanks Ken
I will do this. Pulling the gearbox out and replacing everything has not been a real good time. I sure don't want to have to take it out again.
Mike
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