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Author Topic: under body  (Read 7074 times)
Harley
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« on: December 08, 2007, 12:00:33 PM »
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have used rust converter on the underside front to back, should I use sound deadner straight over the converter or paint then the deadner.
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« Reply #1 on: December 08, 2007, 04:53:32 PM »
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No best not too,atleast use etch and normal primer, preferably seal it with some colour, i didnt know when i did mine but ideally i should have gone epoxy primer- thinned stonegard-hs primer-colour.
 unless you are painting underneath black you wont be able to paint over deadner becuase it will bleed black or brown through, you can use stonegaurd and just deaden the top.
 on the can it says the deadener will go over metal but if you miss any spots they are unprotected and petrol or solvent degreasers will make the deadeners wash of too.
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« Reply #2 on: December 08, 2007, 04:55:54 PM »
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you could go cheap and paint underneath with killrust, allthough its not the right stuff it always does a good job and lasts but you cant paint acrylic or 2k over that or it will fry.
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Harley
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« Reply #3 on: December 08, 2007, 06:12:20 PM »
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No best not too, at least use etch and normal primer, preferably seal it with some colour
FCCOOL do you mean don't use deadner over the converter, i'm not that fussed if painted or not just protected, looks like was painted then deadner from original
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« Reply #4 on: December 08, 2007, 07:16:12 PM »
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yeah, i would not put deadener over bare metal, to be quick & cheap i would just use some black rust kill enamel and then leave it for a couple of weeks and then put the deadener on, you could put the deadener on sooner but it might react with the rustkill, rustkill enamel takes a bit if time to cure hard.
 i havent tried deadener over rust kill fresh so i couldnt say it would be safe to put the deadener on the next day.
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« Reply #5 on: December 08, 2007, 07:20:12 PM »
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i just remembered i had a fry up with deadener over rustkill after 1 week but it was a rubbrised deadener out of a spray can, i had already done the other side wich had sat for 2 weeks and ok, it might be a bit different with a tar deadener though.
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FC427
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« Reply #6 on: December 08, 2007, 09:27:55 PM »
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Hi Harley did you strip the under side back to bare metal Huh? if so it is best to use 2K  WASH PRIMER as it has an acid in it to etch in to the metal then just a coat 2K primer and overnight drying and it will be ready for Proof Coat might seem like a bit of trouble but anything worth doing is worth doing well ........FC427.........
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As I lay rubber down the street I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide please dear god protect my ride
Harley
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« Reply #7 on: December 08, 2007, 10:20:45 PM »
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it's a bit of both FC427 -
Used a wire wheel to get previous bitumus coats off & the rust converter is where you spry/brush on then wipe excess of with damp wrag so only remains on rusty bits not bare metal.
I'm hoping to get away without spray painting as the cars on blocks, space underneath is little on the squeezy side, brush paint be ok
The deadner I got is tar type not the rubber based stuff.
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FC427
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« Reply #8 on: December 08, 2007, 10:38:30 PM »
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Harley  You could get a spray can of SEPTONE ETCH PRIMER for the bare metal parts only and then brush a coat of zinc chromate primer on and then Proof coat on top of that . I trust You are going to spray the proof coat, if you attempt to brush it it will look very bad FC427
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As I lay rubber down the street I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide please dear god protect my ride
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« Reply #9 on: December 08, 2007, 11:47:22 PM »
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spraying is pretty messy, spraying is far superior but you need a mask, compressor and a deadener gun, if you dont have that you might have little choice but to brush it on, if you dont care how it looks the deadener might be ok brushed on, i have a can of brush on here but ive never used it, i would imagine it would be very brush strokey, maybe you could thin it a little and try to slap it on thick, your going to have lots of gooey black stuff running down your arm too so try and cover it with plstic and a rubber glove or if you are like me you might have extra extra large condoms lying around, just slip one over your arm.
 
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FC427
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« Reply #10 on: December 09, 2007, 08:41:51 PM »
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FCCOOL one has to wonder why you would need to place the condom on your arm [Something not right  down there is that what your saying HuhHuh?] FC427
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As I lay rubber down the street I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide please dear god protect my ride
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« Reply #11 on: December 09, 2007, 09:05:15 PM »
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ok, try painting tar with a brush upside down, its going to go down your arm, probably end up in your armpit hair, your going to have to soak your arm in solvent to get it out of your skin, normal latex gloves are not long enough and will only keep you hand clean, that tar stuff is messy wich is why after using it under my car once i never wanted to touch it again.
 A better alternative is stonegard and just put some sheets of deadener on top, that tar stuff still ends up with rust under it and you dont notice it very easily till the car falls apart, it never cures and comes of with degreaser.
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Geoff_K
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« Reply #12 on: December 10, 2007, 05:01:45 PM »
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Guys,
Go see your local Vet (one that attends to large animals)
They have gloves that go from fingertip to shoulder.
That should do the trick, but be careful when enquiring about what they use them for.
(As Doug Anthony once said ...'the honourable member needs the Berdizzo treatment', and vets are very good at this!)
Geoff_K
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