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PART 3.a. Easing out the damage

Once the retainer was removed it was easliy striaghtened using a hammer on the anvil.

The next step was the ease out the crease and the major dents. To achieve this a dolly was made that could slide into the trim and be worked down the length of it to ease out the major damage. An old bolt and a few minutes work with the grinder produced this nifty tool.



A bit of work on the anvil using the dolly (tap until it rings) and most of the damage had been addressed and the trim naturally straightened.

PART 2. Preparation for repair

For this piece of trim the retainer runs the full length as opposed to using individual clips. As a result the retainer has to be removed prior to any repair work on the trim commencing. This is the first challenge, as straightening it cold to remove the retainer strip runs the risk of snapping the trim and the retainer at the point of damage. To overcome this the trip was gently heated using a blow torch (MAP) at a distance of around 250mm (10") until it was easily able to be straightened. The key is not to overheat it, otherwise you could discolour the stainless trim. After heating and straightening it looked more like a piece of spaghetti but it was straight enough to enable access to the back of the trim without risk of breaking it or work hardening it at the point of damage.

The metal retainer strip slides into the moulding and the moulding is then peined over to hold it in place. The first step in removing it was to apply some WD40 to loosen up the rusty retainer, then open the end closest to the damage and ease the back of the trim up with a screwdriver until the retaining strip can move. Once this has been achieved the retainer can be removed with a bit of effort, taking care not to break the trim or the retainer in the process. 


Open end of the trim with the retaining strip removed.

I picked up an FC Special door card for nothing that had some badly damaged stainless trim. I thought I would show how this was "restored" to a usable condition for anyone who finds themselves in a similar situation down the track.

This is what I received:
 


I was a little concerned about working the trim cold given the depth of the crease. It doesn't look as bad in the photo as it did in the flesh, the crease was quite sharp and deep.

I have broken this "guide" into parts because the system refuses to load it if it is too big.

PART 1. The tools needed for the job:

Anvil or similar
Flat tippe screwdrive that is quite "sharp"
Pein/panel beating hammer(s)
Grinder
Long Bolts/Metal Stock
Blow torch (I used MAP)

The 403 message has raised its ugly head again - I have tied to post several times today on the Jolls FC restoration thread and ether get 403 Forbidden, or nothing happens at all (it will be intersting to see if this posts at all). Computer has been restarted, protection software has been turned off and different browsers have ben tried - all with the same result!

But not in this thread for some reason? Odd!

Thoughts ?

The 403 message has raised its ugly head again - I have tied to post several times today on the Jolls FC restoration thread and ether get 403 Forbidden, or nothing happens at all (it will be intersting to see if this posts at all). Computer has been restarted, protection software has been turned off and different browsers have ben tried - all with the same result!

Happy New year everyone.

Going through my stuff and found I have two mint NOS Special Badges. They don’t come with the shields.

I also have a pair of used Station Sedan badges. They have some pitting, one is missing a pin the other has all three. Both have the all the trim clips.

$400 for the pair of Special badges and $120 for the Wagon badges.

Send me a PM for pictures.

Cheers
John

I picked up the door card yesterday. Unfortunately the top stainless trim is missing and the centre trim is bent and creased.



I will need to make a couple of custom dollys to work inside the damaged trim to get back into shape. I am a little concerned about working the trim cold given the depth of the crease. It doesn't look as bad in the photo as it does in real life.  I have not worked on such thin stainless that is creased this badly. My current plan is to heat it with MAP and work it slowly; however, this is me thinking through the problem - not through expereience. Any experience based wisdom would be of great value before I start on this part of the process would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers n Beers

Vern,

I'm not so sure about the leaky fuel riser pipe hypothesis.  I was about to try the hose-in-jerry-can trick and saw that the fuel pump bowl was full to the top.  That wouldn't happen if the fuel riser was leaking.  I started the car and ran it for about ten minutes.  There was no hint of air bubbles at the pump inlet, and the engine ran sweetly.

Since the apparent air leak happens when the engine's hot, I'll have to try the hose and jerry can when the engine's hot and the fuel system's misbehaving.

Rob

Rob ...repair of metal fuel tanks is almost a lost art ,there was a bloke in Parramatta but I believe he has retired , most plastic tanks are " put a new one in "...there is a bloke associated with the Velocette motor cycle club who does bike tanks ,he may help or know who can, I think I can get his details for you , gimme few days ... Vern ..

I'm not out of the woods yet.

This morning was a glorious opportunity to head up to Mount White and take the old two-lane road back, so I did. The car was very happy, except waiting to turn right off the Pacific Highway near home, when the idle "sagged" again. With the engine idling at home, there were lots of bubbles coming out of the fuel pump inlet, and when the fuel level in the pump bowl rose to the gauze, the idle came good.

The tank was less than 1/4 full. I'm beginning to think there's a crack or pinhole in the fuel riser pipe inside the tank. To double-check, I'll take the stationary engine tank from the test stand and plumb it into the car's fuel pump. If no bubbles, I'll fill up the car, and park it on a slope, driver's side downhill. The fuel riser pipe should be immersed in fuel for its whole length. If I don't get any bubbles in the pump bowl, that'll be a confirmed diagnosis.

My 1957 master parts catalogue lists the fuel riser pipe as a spare part, so they were a serviceable item. But at this point, I'll need to find someone who can repair fuel tanks.

Rob