Well here’s a tried n true debate that might end one day
My FC wagon had and old gauge that was hooked up when I bought her
Did engine up using Valvoline Mono to run in and she was as happy as could be temp sitting at abt 180F idiot light never ever lite up.
Change oil to Penrite Classic Light engine ticking away smoother than ever so change coolant too
Temp gauge dropped back to 160-170 F I thought great she’s running nicely which was ideal.
Took her for 400 K run and not a single problem but gauge dropped to below 150 almost to 100F
So I I checked forum and I know I should just chuck the gauge and enjoy
So it’s either the sender or the gauge
Sorry to bother anyone but felt like posting to raise this subject that brews up all the grey beards out there.

Thanks Harv
Everything and all I expected
As previously stated they look period but their worth is about as good as a two Bob watch
Pretty sure I have never observed more than 2” of oil when I service the engine
Regards FC25250

The bypass filters only filter a very small amount of the oil pump flow (hence the name bypass), unlike the full-flow filters installed on the later red motors.

They do not need priming, but can benefit from venting to remove the air that will sit in the filter housing top. They can self-drain once shut down if the lid has any leaks.

Their benefit is marginal at best, and even then you would need to be daily driving it or using it very frequently in a stationary engine setup.

You probably remove move dirt particles via the oil leaking from the rear main, timing cover and rocker covers, along with the short oil change intervals.

Cheers,
Harv

Might be a silly question but the Fram filter when changed does it need to be primed before the lid is tightened up ? Reason I ask is that after the last change not a lot of oil collects in the canister so does it need help to get a good head of oil flowing through this unit.
From what I see it’s all pretty pathetic and really hardly worth the exercise but looks period
What do you grey engine fellas reckon ?
Thanks FC25250

Realise it’s an old well gone over topic but has any definitive means of overcoming this perennial problem been reached ? My FC wagons 9” drums are all run out and from what I have read EH ones will do the trick if machined to prevent fouling with the FC back plate.
I have a number of FC drums and their construction is rather lightweight compared to the heavier more solid EH ones.
EH ones to me seems to be easiest way rather than altering all the other components.
Any suggestions as well as best drums to get me back up n running much appreciated.

Thanks for the replies
I checked out the link and am still wondering about the order of reassembly
My housing started with the inverted steel cup with openings serrations on the bottom edge followed by the spring with a washer being attached and welded to the spring then the filter itself followed by the orange top lid of the filter body and this is secured by the central post bolt with a new rubber seal on the outside and on the top centre of the lid.
Pictures I see from links show a Ryco filter unit and the spring in question appears under the lid of the filter top cover. Do I have things back to front ? &
Am I missing something ?
Thanks in anticipation and as they say a picture of the sequence beats a thousand words
FC25250

Can any one post a diagram or better still a photo with the order that all the components and order of assemble.that make up the Fram F4 when replacing a filter.
Followed the order that it came to bits last I replaced filter and when I opened up today the top of the filter was dry and base of filter oiled to half way up the filter. Checked to see if the was a hole in the upright central securing posted couldn’t see or feel it so need some expert advice.
Thanks

Thanks Stewy and Zulu
They say a picture is worth a thousand words and now I see what ain’t there and will try and find those bits
Needle in a haystack stuff I’m guessing
Again, thanks to you both.

Can anyone post a picture of a wagons spare tyre in situ with the retaining bolts etc
My wagon doesn’t have anything and just a bracket so I am left wondering what’s missing
Thanks

Thanks Vern & Ken
I will check out the situation re the spare reverse wire & hopefully that will solve the problem
Regards Paul
 

Did you know there is a spare wire in the rear loom?
The reverse light option uses a green wire in the body harness. One end is just near the boot spring on the drivers side and the other is at the base of the windscreen coming out of the pillar in behind the dash.
Both ends have the usual push in connector as used in the rest of the loom.

Ken

Anyone rewired the rear brake lights so as to avoid the need to try & poke new wire through the usual hood channel inside the hood lining on drivers side etc
brake light fuse keeps blowing
any suggestions on best alternative to re routing a new wire alternative to the old original way.
i.e underneath body or inside on floor ?   
Blinker lights & tail lights all good  Bulbs checked are ok on both filaments.
Thanks   

Haven't seen these pair for many years

Ken

Thanks Ken & Yep those are the fellas
Bluey if I remember correctly was the older of the 2 & they used to be in the Newspaper cartoon strips for many years

Thanks to all for the names that you have applied to your cars.
I have thought long and hard and my grandson, coming up 6 years old suggested Bluey !
So there you go cobbers, to those in the know you will recall those 2 Aussy diggers Bluey & Curly, now all I need is a decent picture of those two cartoon characters and that's all sorted.

Nice one Ken and I cannot disagree with the colours She looks great
Let's see more pictures from every angle including the engine Dept.

Most people with older cars give them a name. so what's your old Gertie called ?
Having just read ATC59FC's write up about his first run in Mable I thought I would throw it open and see what's out there

Thanks Rob and others
I laid the pile of hubcaps on the concrete garage floor to see how out of true each one was & found that some of the least scratched ones were buckled and so I select 4 of the flat ones and drove them home over the third lug with a leather hammer bingo ran all over the place and that problem is now sorted. Just need a wheel brace with a hook to prize off when needs be. Did the same thing with the chrome beauty rings and some of them were out of true so again best of 4 and we appear all sorted.
Thanks to all for comments to assist..r


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Next time I see good looking hubcaps I will not shell out until I get my spirit level out !!
Have 9 hubcaps and 6 chrome rings so should be right I think they look pretty reasonable from 20 feet in failing light anyway


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

On the warped hubcap issue -

You can use it to your own advantage.  When putting hubcaps on, I engage two of the wheel rim's lugs with the hubcap, and rotate the hubcap until it pops onto the third lug easily.  And it can even be (like on my FC) that the hubcap is so out of true that there's no retention on the third lug.  In which case I treat the hubcap like a bayonet fitting: slip it on and give it a twist to seat it.  The advantage of this is that you don't need a tool to remove the hubcap - you just have to remember which way is "undo".

And I haven't lost a hubcap yet.

Rob

Thanks Rob and others
I laid the pile of hubcaps on the concrete garage floor to see how out of true each one was & found that some of the least scratched ones were buckled and so I select 4 of the flat ones and drove them home over the third lug with a leather hammer bingo ran all over the place and that problem is now sorted. Just need a wheel brace with a hook to prize off when needs be. Did the same thing with the chrome beauty rings and some of them were out of true so again best of 4 and we appear all sorted.
Thanks to all for comments to assist..r


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thats a lovelly wagon..

Thanks Peter the skyline blue and the crystal blue do it for me Having owned an FE Wagon in ViC in the late 60's seems it was the only way to go.

Are your rims original or aftermarket. Good hubcaps will not come off original rims. Check for damage or flattening of the bead on a hubcap that comes off.
The wheel should not need to be modified by either grinding or drilling for the hubcap to stay on

Ken

Hi Ken
All 8 rims are I assume original 4 came with the car (no spare include) -and Ipicked up another 4 to roll her around on while the good ones were cleaned up and painted. 1of the original was  no good as too pitted around the   Schrader valve ,being tubeless I was told it was no good.
The rims are different upon examination earlier ones are riveted later (I assume) are welded and I had fun with the brake drums and interference between the rim and drums. Again earlier drums irised off edges vs what appears to be overlapped rim edges. Yes I am confused  but will persevere
Any help greatly appreciated

Old subject but now I am almost there with my restoration I want to make sure that the hubcaps stay on and only come off when I want them to. Anybody got a fail safe system ?
Already had one pop off and maybe need a grinding wheel gouge behind the location lobes on the rims ??
Heard that some drill through the rim and send a self tapper screw through, which seems extreme
Any thoughts appreciated
Thanks

Try this one not sure what happened with first picture link