a bloke i work with fitted torana front and rear in his car,
he said they need some mods but didn't need re trimming after mods, unless you wanted it done

is the 4speed to suit grey or red

+1
for bleed the air

also another thing depending the viscosity of the grease you may need to lower the input pressure to 40-60psi to alow time for the grease to fall under gravity,

another option is to find a spring that will fit over shaft and on cover plate inside of drum to apply pressure to plate and force the grease gown to stop air locks

+1
for another shed

they posted the shop details
buy it direct and get them to post it,
if you trust them

the reason they wont do small lines and small writing as such
is that in a few years it will be unreadable or smudge as the colour flatten out

ive got close to 100hr worth of art on me and they have all told me the same
and i have seen it for myself, in small detailed areas

give it a few years and that grill will look like a black smudge, they should have told you that all greywash fades at a faster rate, due to no defined edges to lock colour in

quick question paul
the colour is that toyota blue, i think #88__

grey or red bellhousing

if you can oxy weld well you will pick up tig with ease,
its all it the feed,
anyone can but weld with no filler, but not everyone can feed and weld

one thing i can suggest if you do want to practice is get so alloy and practice on that as you can run weld after weld without cleaning or re prepping, all other steals need to be prepared more or cleaned after welding

if you only plane on ark/tig
cig have one for 350+ tig leads, i got mine with gauges,tig/ark leads for $450 from total tools

but it only does mild and s/s

if you want to do alloy you'll need a dc inverted and they start at 750-800 for the cig

the 3-1 does it all from memory but not the $1000 one you need the $1200 cig one

tig i my opinion is a nicer and stronger weld then mig on thin steal and if done right can be left for all to see

received and replied

i have a mate with a cig one's it was around 550-600new

heres a place selling them for 515
https://www.alltools.com.au/shop/index.php/65/4485_Cigweld_Weldskill_135_Mig_Welder_(_10_Amp_Plug_)_**_NEW_**

there a gun welder for the price and very reliable

if you have a bit more to spend

http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=cig%20mig%20welders&source=productsearch&cd=9&docid=16873440596520479294&ved=0CF4QgwgwCA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.alltools.com.au%2Fshop%2Findex.php%2F523%2F4251_Cigweld_Transmig_175I_Mig-Tig-Arc_3_In_1_Inverter_Welder_**_NEW_**&ctbm=shop&ei=SWZwT52LOMW0iQfXgNX9Dg&usg=AFQjCNF_ruu1oJMlWJ57R1KV252gjxu9jg

i use to use this at my last work and we put it through hell and it surived (fell of fork, got wet)

but if you want the macdady
look at fronius welder

If you want to travel to Melbourne i go a unimig 240 full digital welder for sale
comes with a new 9kg gas spool and gauges (new gauge and 9kg as supplied when new)
and a 5kg gasless (about 3-4kg left on it)

only used it for about 1-2 kg wort of wire, (welded 2 holes in a floor)

i brought it 4 years ago as my tax was killing me

an reason you dont want electrical,
if its a safety thing, they make switches that run from dizzy to switch off fuel if engine stalls or fails (same as if LPG is fitted)
you can also run better fuel filters with electrical, and they can be fitted in line, engine bay or inside fuel tank

I like the the autobarn ones that are around $70 as they are normal have a higher force/pounds rating
Then I just buy one of there cheep ass alarm system that do central locking
And it's all sorted
That what you also get an alarm, all up just under $200

Another option is rhino alarm and locks from dicksmith
Last time I used them was around 04/05 and it was around 80-100 all up
I thought it was a very good system

nothing sorry mate
ken might know, as there connected to the brakes and his the guru on them

got myself a turbo that im going to try and fit, on the stock block until im ready to strip down propley
with a staic comp of 7.2 factory if i add 4 psi ill be around 9:1 and 5psi 9.5:1

ive seen a few running high 9's but not sure on the reliability,

just want a bit more up and go, nothing to wild

just wondering what the safest compression ratio is to run on a stock 132/138 grey motor crank, with out stud girdles,

hoping 9:1 or even 9.5:1

any late mdl commodore will work, if you need 2 speed
http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,18113.0.html

its a very common upgrade

my 3 gauge came up a tread, hopping to remove it and paint it, so ill post some pics once done,
unless someone beats me to it