Happy to send pictures to serious buyers and post at buyers expense (i'm in Hobart), i've got a lot on at the moment so bare with me i don't get back to your messages straight away

no, all dress rims are plain

Hi all,

Had to move a heap of parts i had stashed under a friends house, for the first time in years i have got a reasonable idea of what parts i have.  If anyone needs anything specific PM me and have a look through the boxes of stuff as i sort them out....i hate selling stuff but i'm on a roll at the moment so get into it before i stack it all away and forget about it again...hahaha

Some of the bigger things i've found so far

Bonnet - FC special, dent and rust free, a really good one $150
13 x 7 Alloy 5 slots - CSA Brand, would polish up a treat, no gutter rash, fitted with servicable 215/50/13 TA's (may separate tyres) $500
14x8(2) and 14x7(2) Dragway Splats with new looking 235/60/14 and 225/60/14 tyres $600
bumperettes? painted yellow (hahaha) but dent free suit repaint or re-chrome $200 pair
Found heaps of starter motors and a few alternators (no generators yet...) for some reason - any offers?
original front windscreen - $50
Redline 4 barrel manifold suit red 6 - looks as new- $150
390 holley 4160 - was a reco when i purchased it years ago - used for 12 months or so, been sitting for maybe 5 years so could do with a gasket set atleast.... $250
Open spacer above to suit 4bbl $10
rusty but straight fc hub caps x 4 $80
chrome dress rims - various condition - will have to check sizes
FC radiator - look to be in good nick $50
202 bottom end - was line bored, bored and honed when rebuilt, acl duralite's and acl bearings, JP straight cuts, was a virgin block before rebuild (thinks it's +20 now, will have to look) no cam -done maybe 20 000 k's max, again - been sitting for a few years now wrapped up...$600
Toyota 5 speed box, was noisy at idle so removed and replaced with another i had at the time, suit re-bearing or put up with the noise  for $100
Used Red 6 oil cooler setup includes lines, sandwich plate and cooler, good looking setup $80
Sun visors x 4 offers
single stromberg on red six manifold, was on a ht ute i had years ago, ran well but been sitting...$30
Muncie to Chev bellhousing (suit the large style flywheel?) $100
Muncie case - i used for dummy fit ups - no internals or side cover $120
FC Chromed firewall carb linkage $80
HR disc Spindles/rotors/calipers $260
LH disc spindles (cant find calipers and rotors yet but may have them) $80

WILL ADD MORE AS I DIG THROUGH SECOND LOAD....

Happy to send pictures to serious buyers and post at buyers expense (i'm in Hobart), i've got a lot on at the moment so bare with me i don't get back to your messages straight away

Cheers

2Door350

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-202-speedway-drag-show-torana-/150903608627?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item23228e5533

Anyone know anymore about this? CRAZY setup!

i've got a few bits laying around, would def have the glass, prob have a bonnet and window reg, no guards...i'm hobart area..ill pm you my number

what i mean is instead of the tuned pipes creating a negative pressure wave at your intake port to help draw in an extra intake charge your supercharger will be stuffing the air and fuel in anyway

I would either run 60 inch long 1.5" diameter primaries straight into an open 2.5" chambered muffler (hooker aerochamber or similar) and then run rest of exhaust 2.5" with a resonator/hotdog added if its too loud for your liking...

otherwise separate the primaries (123 / 456) and collect them into two 1 7/8" secondaries (atleast 45 inches long) then collect the secondaries into a 2.5" or bigger tailpipe with a straight though 2.5 muffler.

some more good general reading (although i don't agree with all of it)

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/exhaust/0505phr_exh/viewall.html

Supercharging you engine will negate the need for most of this exhaust tuning but you might just enjoy it as is...never know.

Just my 2 bobs worth, having had a couple of headers designed (not by me) to promote pulse tuning or cylinder scavenging it is certainly worth the effort.

Both the length and diameter is cruical.  It is recognised that a difference in length of less than 1" is ideal

How you terminate you primaries is also critical, pressure waves react to large changes in cross sectional area.

The workable rev range of equal length headers can be in fact one half of your effective rev range.

The science that goes into the design is why most people don't bother/cant produce effective results.

The term 'tuned headers' when used in reference to off the shelf headers is in my opinion a bit of a joke...what are they tuned for? certainly not most engines.

Go the the library and pick up a copy of 'The scientific design of intake and exhaust systems' also plenty of good stuff to read online if you have a good search...Headers by Ed has some good info.

I'd give it a go if you have the time...you will find a 45" long 1.5 diameter primary is good from around 3600-7000rpm (ideal for a 186), and 60" long primary operates well from just over 3000rpm to around 6000 (ideal 202).

cheers

2door350

Hi all,

Anyone got a manual pedal box kicking around? swapping out an auto...

cheers

2d00r350

It was an auto so no rat trap, think i've got it sorted now, cut up a fork and made it happen

Hi,

Trying to setup my new Autogear M22 on the desk before it goes in my HT on Monday, Ordered a Hadfield hydraulic slave bracket CB03 which arrived last night, dummy it up on the bellhousing (factory 10.5" chev passenger side fork entry with factory clutch fork) and the angles are all wrong!

Looks to me that it doesnt work with the factory fork? Rodshop told me it will when i ordered it, rang them yesterday arvo, apparently their 'expert' is away till monday lunchtime...

Got car booked in my mates workshop first thing monday morning to swap in my new 350 and muncie for old 350 and t400, Need a solution?

Anyone got a pic of thier hydraulic muncie clutch setup?

cheers
2ddor350

Hi all,

After a bellhousing with no cracks etc to suit a 10.5 inch flywheel and clutch, Muncie to SBC, just realised the one i have is for the bigger style setup...

cheers

2door350

im also in tas, have a set of hr stubs, discs and calipers at home somewhere....

Hi all,

Does anyone know if short rear bump stops are available? or do they interchange with front ones as i know they are available?

cheers

2d00r

I used a selby HR one from memory - i was quite beefy, maybe 20 odd mm, i put some right angle brackets on the frame rails in front of rear wheels and mounted it to them.....not too difficult, mind you i have since taken it back off and prefer the ride without it...i would use a very small one if i tried another

cheers

2door350

thanks for the help, sounds like iv'e got something sorted, cheers 2door350

Hi,

Interested in a car, looking for someone to give it an inspection for me, happy to cover costs for right person...pm me if you think it maybe you

cheers

2door350

pm sent

yes, centura are 25 spline, plenty strong, kept busting axles in my bango fc housing, after 6 or 7 broke i changed to the BW 2.92 and have never had a problem since...It has survived 4 engines, 3 gearboxes and two cars so far without one problem, recently updated centre to a 3.23 4 pinion LSD for some extra traction...

money very well spent i think....

Hi all,

managed to bend a control arm, need a replacement asap, cant believe i dont have one sitting about.....

cheers

2door350