Hewart,

Since you say that the picture is at A.G. Sims & Co Mascot, circa 1973, the locomotive remains can date the picture a tiny bit more precisely.

There are three sets of driving wheels and no bogie or truck wheels.  All the sets of driving wheels have small crankpins, indicating coupling rods only.  The centre set of driving wheels have a crank axle, with eccentric sheaves fitted.  This indicates that teh steam locomotive had 6 driving wheels only, with inside cylinders and valve gear.  Being NSW, they must be part of the remains of a Z-19 Class 0-6-0 steam locomotive, similar to:  http://www.csse.monash.edu.au/~ajh/trains/nsw/19class/1919-1.jpg  
and:  http://www.csse.monash.edu.au/~ajh/trains/nsw/19class/1923-2.jpg   .


The pieces of frame with spring gear is simialr to Z-19 Class arrangements, and the dome in the foreground is the same size as a Z-19 type.  Note that it is liberally covered in asbestos, as the boiler would have been.

These locomotives entered service in August 1877 and the final ones were withdrawn in August 1972.  The one in our photograph would have been one of the 10 or so that were withdrawn in July 1971 when new Diesel Locomotives replaced them as Darling Harbour & Alexandria yard shunters.  They were scrapped by mid 1972.

Four of them survive: 1904 (8/1877 to 8/1972) at Dorrigo, 1905 (8/1877 to 5/1968 and the construction locomotive for the Harbour Bridge) at the NSWRTM Thirlmere, 1919 (?/1878 to 11/1971) at Glenreagh and 1923 (?/1878 to 8/1972) at Dorrigo.

People,

I have just started to reassemble the doors on my FE.  I am putting new rubbers etc into them, all sourced from Rare Spares.  The left rear door was the first one...

Craig Allsop has stated in the past that the Rare Spares rear quarter window rubbers are too high on their bottom, by about 2 millimetres.  He is correct there.  Craig had said that he linished (carefully) his rubbers so that they were of the correct size.  Again, his approach is the right one.

Having his words in mind, I thought that I could do a good job with a Stanley type knife & a scalpel.  Big mistake.  The rubber will twist even if it is on a hard, flat surface and you will cut through to the glass channel.

What I did as soon as the knife wnet through was to stop and remember Craig's words.  I put the glass into the rubber and went over to my bench grinder and very carefully ground (linished) the rubber to the correct profile, except for where I had cut through it.  This part had to stay too large, as the grinder would have removed the 'flap' of rubber all together.  When I put it into the door, I applied a bead of mastik (sp?) all the way around to ensure no leaks and filled in the area where the rubber stood proud on the bottom.

For the right rear door, I'll be using the grinder first and keeping the various blades for opening the plastic bag.

Spinner

A quick snifter after lunch perhaps?


Spinner

Doesn't SOP stand for 'Spirit of Progress', a train that ran between Melbourne & Albury 1937-1962, then Sydney-Melbourne 1962-1984?

http://www.victrip.com.au/photo_archive/spirit.html

Hewart,

Great scrapyard photographs.  Interesting to see that the yard also cut up steam locomotives.  Are the remains in the foreground an E class, a Y class or a D3 class?  I'm guessing a Victorian yard.


Cheers

Brett

Ace,

I actually want broken ones, as what I want to do involves breaking one.  Saves me destroying a recoverable item.


Spinner

I'm after one or two broken FE or FC Horn Rings.  Needed for HR Steering Wheel idea.


Spinner

Could you send me a copy of the scan too please?

E-mail address(es)

spinner@mpx.com.au

b.fitzpatrick@centrelink.gov.au


Thank you

Brett

Twitch,

I'd have to agree to what Ret said.  I've purchased an FE with HR Disc brake front end161/EJ Crash Box/HR rear axle assembly/3.08:1 centre.

The gearbox is up to the Red Motor as long as you're not after rollbacks or other means of lighting the tyres up.  The 3.08:1 differential is too tall for the car (imo) so I've got a 3.36:1 centre to replace it with.  Your 3.55:1 diff should work fine.

Spinner

This is a bit off thread.

My father used to drive a forklift for a company called 'Lawrence, Smith & Canning' who were out at the back of Belmore (NSW).  'His' forklift had a grey motor, it was numbered 1.  That was circa 1969, he still talks about it because it is the lowest engine number he has ever seen.

I'd like one too please.  

I'll go through my slide catalogue and get the FE/FC and other pre-HK shots, scan & send them to you too.


Cheers

Spinner

Slim,  notice that it's got the Rj\hino Horn mascot?

Thanks Craig.

I'm actually asking about the inside of the folded box section, not the channel into which you fit the bailey channel.

BTW Craig, did you use any of the metal clips to retain the bailey channel?  Does Liquid Nails handle all the 'retaining' job?

Spinner

Hi swingers, it's me again with another question.

When working inside my doors (what nice cubby houses they make ) I've noticed the bottoms of the window frames.  They appear to be rusty brown orifices (orifii?) disappearing into the dark.  Is it a good idea to fishoil them?  If so, should I just pour it in or should I try for a more 'scientific' approach?

Spinner

I'm up to the coating door insides phase of the work.  So far, the door insides have been wire brushed, swept, stirred, vacuumed, washed and now treated with phosphoric acid.

I wanna know what I should do next.  Should I prime then paint then fishoil  
   -OR-
should I fishoil them and forget the other stuff.

One person has said to put dieseline in around the edges of the inner face of the doorskin where it meets the door frame, then fishoil the rest only, as fishoil won't flake & peel in the years to come.

Cheers

Spinner

Car #1: CTU-370.

Car #2: BMW-243 (appears to read).

As well as the other differences already spotted.  Base colour appears different too.


Spinner

I purchased a few sets of keys from the Ebay bloke (Rudi25 or whatever).  After speaking to him, I din't mind th eprice.  He says he is selling the keys as a means of helping to support his son who had a nasty industrial accident for which the compensation was very inadequate.


Cheers

Spinner

Sorry for the long title  (I'm not really sorry ).

Have started work on the doors of my (daughter's) sedan.  Neaside doors have been stripped out and removed from car a/c all bailey channels and quarter window seals to replace and inside door faces to repaint.  All stainless trim has been removed from the doors too, because the previous owner fitted new trim retaining brackets but failed to fit washers under the nuts or seal the openings.  For some reason, they removed the factory fitted sound absorbing material too.

On cleanup, the door insides (inside face of door skin & door frame) come up pretty good.  The upper door framing still shows patches of shiny metal, the upper door skin has lots of surface rust.  The door interiors have been wire brushed (mm what fun), the bottom of the door skins scraped with a screwdriver to 'gently stir' the years of dirt & dust settled in there and re-open the drain holes.  A go over the inside with a vacuum cleaner has revealed solid door skins with no evident corrosion, the door frames have some corrosion along their bottoms. Nothing serious.  

Sunday was spent doing the above as well as sanding the door cap & frame ready for repainting.  Whilst the car is single tone outside, it is two tone inside.  More of this later...

Last night's job was to paint phosphoric acid (known as rust converter) to the insides.  Another great job, made easier by having the doors off the car, so I could turn them any way I chose.  There's not much room inside a door when your hand is in there along with both hands, a leadlight & a paintbrush!!

Anyway, back to the two tone interior.  My doors are painted with the darker green on the door caps & window frames (interior) as per a two tone Special.  The interior is treated similarly to Ret's stock sedan.  A difference to Ret's one is that the dark green extends across the tops of the wodow frames all the wat to teh inner edge of the flange, the actual demarcation between Oceanmist exterior and dark green interior colours being the top edge of the door.

What colour is the dark green?  Spinner, being a smarty, says: "Well, dur, it's dark green."  Actually buying the right colour to repaint it requires a slightly 'more scientific' name than that though.  Spinner gets smart idea of taking the inner 'A' Pllar moulds off, using the inner face of those (never being exposed to sunlight, they will have the original 1957 shade on them).  

Well, these pillar moulds are painted in a metallic dark green, similar to BRG but metallic.  The pillar mouldings have'nt been repainted, the opinion of the staff at Kenny's Auto Paints (Carramar) is that the paint on them is the factory finish.  Common understanding of the colours offered on the FE states that only one metallic colour was offered, and it's not green.  Ask Alfie about Rosie's colour.

For the NSW members, I'll bring one or both along to the next meeting (Tuesday night next week) as a kind of 'show and tell'.

Discussion over to you...

My FC Van (sold years ago) had that same problem - at 110 mph indicated (5700rpm on the tacho) the tailshaft broke, catapaulting the car so tat I could look across the rooff of the car (XD) we were overtaking.  Mate who was driving kept his foot in it even then, I had to tell him to let it idle as we stopped bouncing and braked to a smooth but shaken stop.

What was left?  The two bolt on uni caps on the diff yolk and a series of tears punched through the floor across to the right.  The gearbox stayed in the car because the linkages & speedo cable held it there.  The gearbox sheared off at the front input bearing as did the main input shaft.

The car was towed home and a replacement box & tailshaft from an EK Sedan at Dollar Wally's (Milperra) was fitted (by me) to get me going again. Two new uni joints featured.

Pinifarina designed Austin Freeway.  With badge engineering, Wolsley (various models), Riley (various), Vanden Plas (various).  Some UK market only.  The 6 cyl version in your picures is an Australia only version.