Hi all

Just thought I might add that the whole front end was rebuilt.      
New crossmember mounting rubbers were fitted, the crossmember mounting bolt shaft shims are in there correct place and had the correct pre-load on the lower crossmember rubbers.

Hi all

I have just had my car at the wheel alighners and we have discovered I don't have enough +castor

He has screwd the top adjuster as far back towards the rear of the car as it will go and the car has only has -2 degree castor (+3 degree is about ideal)

Another problem we found which we think is causing the problem is the whole front cross member seems to be pointing down ie....The front outrigger is compressing the bottom half of the rubber squeezing the rubber out the sides.

When we unscrewed the cross member bolts, removed the outrigger rubber and pushed the outrigger up towards the grille it gives + castor.

It seems the rubbers at the rear of the crossmember that sit on top of the crossmember are not thick enough, we put about a 1/4" spacer in those rear rubbers and got it to about -1 degrees but it is still 4 degrees off our ideal +3 degrees.

So in theory the outrigger needs to be lifted upwards towards the grill and the rear rubbers need to be thicker, sounds pretty easy to fix but it's not.

What is causing the outrigger to push down?

          Thanks Aaron

Hi all

While we are on the subject of old go-fast bits for Grey's a bloke by the name of H.D Laphen (He must be 70 odd years old)came into an engine shop in Orange where I use to work with a Sainty built Billet crankshaft.

It was a fully counter weighted crank, looked something like a Blue/Black 3.3 counter weighted crank but with narrower counter weights it was a piece of art (I must contact him I'd like to see the engine, must be built by now)

There is also a bloke here who has a Repco headed complete Grey sitting in his fathers shed that has been there for at least 15 odd years, I know the bloke pretty well so I might try and get a couple of photos and get them posted here.

Onya FATBOY
Hope all is well

PS... I would not let your wife see/know about the picture of her you have posted on the site, I don't think she was in a good state to smile!!!!!!

Hi frogman

I work at Auto One Orange, and you should get one for around the $90-100 mark if they can supply!

Some of the suppliers are not keeping them much any more because of the supply & demand thing you may have to wait for one

You quite often see the one on ebay for I think for around $119 + freight buy now price, I guess it depends on how badly you need you can't drive a $10,000 FC without a $120 water pump!!!

Hi fe-ute56

Thanks for reply but I ended up getting the one on Ebay.

Hi all

Had a quick look at the wiring in my ute and found a white wire hanging out of the steering column, connected to the reverse switch and now have reverse lights.

I found it was quicker than playing with diodes!

Hi all

Thanks for your comments.

The tail lights are originally orange so I'm thinking the e way to do this is to try and rewire this like a FB/EK ute but there is a lot of stuffing around.

So I think I can acheive my blinker/reverse lights combination using 4 diodes. I'll give that a go.

Hi all

About to fit revers lights in my 59 FC ute

What I need to know is which rear lights do I use as a reverse light

I think I have to convert my blinkers (Orange lense) to reverse but if you do that I don't see how the blinkers will work as the reverse light circuit will join the blinkers to one circuit?

   

Hi deano

Should be around $200 for a Bore & Hone

Tell your machine guy you will pay him cash,
You may get away with paying GST!!!!

Hi Blown FC

You will find the flex plate is not dead flat.

When you look at the engine side on, I think The  ring gear is more towards the engine and the crank flange section is towards the transmission.

The code is 10367 in PPG

Hi Tumbles,

Your average standard Holden 253/308 V8 runs a spring pressure of about 110-120ibs

Stainless valves are stronger because they are 1 piece,harder and basically desighned to have the living snotter revved out of them.

As for a Grey motor I personally wouldn't go more than about 90-110ibs for a Grey motor(Unless your reving it hard all day) as you may start to chew lifters,cam lobes & timing gears.

To give you another example my LC Torana drag car runs a roller cam with a seat pressure of about 240ibs with a ferrea brand stainless valve.(getting a bit away from greys here but you know what I mean!!)

  "You learn something new everyday"

I didn't know Grey's had 2 different length pushrods.
Thanks ACE.


            Regards Aaron

PS..... Why did they have 2 different lengths? I know Red's had different lengths for different block heights/Rocker gear (I think)?

If you have a Grey engine second hand pushrods will be the go.

Be careful with Red motors they have 3 different length pushrods so get the right length.

Pushrods are not worth the effort for straightening!!

Pretty bloody tidy!!!!!!!!

Hi all

I'm chasing an original Nasco "Warmride" heater in working order.

I know about the one on ebay (13/6/05) if I do no good here.

Late model Toyota Landcruisers had power assisted clutch's also.

I'll take it

I'll email you with some details.

          Aaron

Hi all

I,m chasing a good second hand ute tail gate release/catch
               
              Aaron