Hi all

I'm chasing a set of bonnet springs, but I need them for the "All Holden day".
If anyone has a set that they can lend/sell and are going to the AHD can they throw them in with them and I can install them on the day.

            Thanks Aaron

Hi Larry

On my ute I have a full set of PBR heavy duty brake hubs.

I don't know much about them, They have a heavier 1/4" front face and the face is flat with "PBR" cast into them. I think the were a taxi option but not quite sure.

Can anyone shed some light on the subject?

            Aaron

Take it down to your local windscreen bloke and he can glue them in with a product called "Sikaflex".

You can buy this at a good auto parts store but in comes in a cartridge and you will pay around $20 a tube

Sikaflex make a few product so make sure you get the one for gluing glass.

Hi all

Just thought I better rephrase my first post, I'm selling reproduced gaurds not the moulds sorry in any inconveniance.

                    Aaron

Hi all

I have just purchased a set L & R hand fibreglass teardrop trailer gaurd moulds, these will be for sale to you guys if interested.

Price will be about the $320 - $380 a pair, as I have not quite fully worked out a cost

Here is a example of one that has come out of the moulds.

                  Thanks Aaron

Hi all

sgo- I stole my Noltec crossmember bushes out of my drag car (LC Torana), Ground down the outer diameter and enlarged the centres slightly to fit the inne tube.

This is just a temporary fix as I have a gap between the chassis rail and the lower half of the insulating rubber.

I need to make a spacer that sits on the crossmember for the insulating rubber to then sit on to get full contact on the chassis.

I will post some pics to give you guys a better idea.

              Aaron

Hi all

Had my ute at the wheel aligners today (suppose to be last friday but I was crook).

Anyway with my dirty great big 3/8 shims at the back the outrigger in the correct position ( not squeezing the rubber out the sides!!!) It had a big fat zero deg castor which is a lot better than -2 deg castor!!

Only 2 deg better than before,+ castor would be a lot better but the difference was like driving a new car!!
you would not think that just 2 deg would change the steering so much the car returns out of corners better, it stays on the road better and pretty much where you point the steering wheel the car now goes!!!

So with the shims still in place, sitting on 0 deg castor and still no castor adjustment I think it is time to swap the support assemblies over and see what that does.

just as well I know the wheel aligner personally as I think I have worn his machine out!!!


Also tried my newly fitted nasco warmride heater on the way in this morning "bloody beautiful"
             
             Aaron

Hi stinky

For some reason they seem to attract moisture and can be stubborn to get out.
A slight hit with a punch and hammer sometimes free's them up, if not you may have to heat them up or drill them out.

They are by my memory just a counter sunk headed 5/16 unc bolt

I got my hinges re-bushed at a local engineering shop for $20

              Aaron

Hi all

While on the subject of teardrop trailers, I've just received a L & R teardrop fibreglass mudgaurd mould I'll try and get some pics posted shortly.
       
                        Aaron

Hi all

I'm really going to push my luck here but I'm after a LH front NOS Nasco mudflap or one in really good condition?. I Have a right hand one but obviously not a left.
          Thanks Aaron

Hi all

Just have to place the correct "Terms" on a few thing

I was wrongly calling the "support assembly" a "steering knuckle" so-

Where your front wheel hangs off (the thing with the wheel bearings on it) is in fact a called a"steering knuckle"

The thing that joins you top & bottom wishbones is called a "support assembly"

So the part # for my support assembly is 7408871/2

I think I have confused myself and you guys enough for tonight!!!

I can't read the part numbers on my steering knuckles so I'm flying blind once again here!

       Thanks Aaron

Hi Zulu

In my spare parts catalogue the part numbers are as follows-

LH - 7408871
RH - 7408872

But the number on my knuckles are as follows-

LH - 7408871/2
RH - 7408871/2

So you would seem to think the knuckles are interchangable???

Maybe it is still worth swapping sides?

    Thanks Aaron

Hi all

ZULU I did not know there is a right and left hand side for the steering knuckle? .......This could be interesting!!!

How do you tell a left hand from a right hand and visa versa

I reckon this may knock the nail on the head???

ED just hang off until I get a reply from ZULU
(and ED thanks very much for your offer)

I have opened a very big can of worms with a simple wheel alignment!!!!!!!

HI all

I have spoken to a couple of older mechanics about my castor problem and they had come across this problem of running out of adjustment.

They could recall a kit to pack up the rear of the cross member as I have done but very rarely did they come across it.

As for the spacer shims/tubes all they do is place pre- load on the rubber insulators to pull the crossmember into the chassis if it is too loose the front end will try to wonder all over the place, Too tight and when you hit a pot hole you will certainly feel it.

From my little experiance last saturday at the wheel aligner's you can take those tubes/shims out, tighten the bolts all day and for as long as your arse points to the ground IT DOES NOT ALTER THE CASTOR OF THE FRONT END!!!
.......well on my car anyway,

That spacer tool I,m stuffed if I know how that works!!!
because as I said before I cant move my top wishbones forward or back because then the nut bottoms out on the shaft before it locks on the wishbone!!!!

Any way The car is going back to the aligners on friday so I'll let you guys know how it goes with the dirty great big 3/8 shims I placed under there.

               Aaron

PS.... have a HR disc brake front end in the shed it's looking bloody good!!!

Hi phantom

The small tabs don't clip off, you have to bend them over.

Hi all

Ken- The insulator rubbers are rubber they came from spectrum rubber and I am assuming they have given me the correct ones.

What I have done (I don't know if this will work until I take it back to the wheel aligners) is put a nolathane 3/8 spacer on top the the rear insulator rubbers, this has now pushed the outrigger up to the middle half of the bracket.
I made another shim/tube to compensate for the added nolathane spacer.

This hopefully will give me more + castor, but now I have about a 1/2" gap at the rear of crossmember and the chassis.

I also tried to unscrew the upper wishbone a move that back, but the big nut bottoms out on the shaft before it locks on the wishbone

          Thanks Aaron

Hi all

Would any one happen to have the tool for spacing the upper wishbone or the width of the tool???

         Thanks Aaron

Hi all

Thanks CraigA, I understand what you mean but that does no explain why the front outrigger is is trying to push itself into the bottom of the bracket.

You can see the different gaps between the crosmember a chassis (front to rear) when you look at it from side on.

Anyway if I can fix my alignment problem by moving the wishbone towards the rear of the car to give me more adjustment, I'd rather have a squashed outrigger rubber than a car that won't steer properly

Would any one happen to have the spacer tool or know the width of this tool???
   
                   Thanks Aaron

Hi all

sgo you must have just jumped in as I was adding to my first post.

As far as we can work out, those tubes/shims only place pre-load on the mounting rubbers and don't seem to affect the castor in the crossmember if the shims ar too short they take out the dampening affect and give a harder ride and send harsh shocks throuh the car.