Why do you need a recoed engine just for display? Just clean up an old one.

If you still have the original light buckets they have an earth strap in them as well. Only small but if theyre not good no lights.

Colin.

Any Links?

Carefully get that 179 badge off the tail gate, have a look at what the side strips go for on ebay, especially if theyre in reasonable nick. The special badges too. A 179, goes for HP blocks as well, is not worth any more than any other red motor, unless it is a good runner.

Colin.

Very happy with it.

See thread I started headed paint colour for fe350chev.

Colin.

The pic of the new 50's Holden is very interesting. It's a 48 with what looks like extra controls for a disabled driver. Maybe a hand throttle above the light switch?

Stinky, there's a few good hotels at Rosehill with parking, not far away, there's a good hotel attached to Blacktown Workers club but parking is open. Also one at Eastern Creek raceway, not sure about parking there. I think there's also a Formula 1 at Parramatta.

Colin.

As mentioned in another thread, my paint colour is: Derwent Blue, Holden colour, code: 2B073. Dulon.

Colin.

Yep, it is my car, painted a few years now. From memory it's a VN colour. I'll see if I still have the tin. There's a few pics of it on the forum somewhere.

Colin.

If you have one of each measure between the ball joint hole centre and the pivot pin centre. Rig up a piece of string or something. The HR one will be slightly longer in this dimension.

Colin.

That'd be awesome. What year Chev is it?

Modulator? Do you mean PCV valve? If so, FC's aren't fitted with one, they are usually fitted after market. All greys have natural breathing thru the walking stick. I'm assuming you have a grey motor? You may have another more major issue.

Colin.

Yep, HR lower wishbones have HR stamped into them. It is quite prominent, easy to find, underneath. They are about 1cm longer than HD wishbones between the pivot point and the balljoint hole.

Colin.

Steve, see how you go with it. Otherwise I may be interested.

Colin.

Yep, love to have a go at them with my tool box.

Jack, given your space restrictions, have you thought about an electric water pump? I haven't seen them myself, but may be worth looking into?

Colin.

$600 for a reco head is pretty good. The one I've just had done cost about $800 but that had a couple of small "extras" done to it. For a standard engine I'd probably trust the machine shop regarding the crack.

Colin.

Something I was recently told when looking at grey heads.

When you receive a head or when you remove one from a motor, don't initially scrape any of the carbon away. If there is a crack you should see it easily in the carbon build-up. Between the valves or towards the edge of the combustion chamber. If you have sand blasting equipment give the head a blast and any crack will stick out like you know what.

Another thing; DON'T throw any away unless you have proved it is cracked. There is ALWAYS someone who needs one or someone who will take it off your hands.

Colin.

Sorry to hear about your Dad Rich.

 A lot of us have heads laying around which are "reconditionable". I have a couple here which should be ok. I don't keep them if I find a crack. In your case I would probably have a look around for a good one which needs minimal work. Not many of them around though. An engine shop should be able to reco a head fairly quickly.

I'm in Canberra and will have a look for you if you want, you should be able to get one in Sydney?

Best Regards,

Colin.

BTW, I see your'e in Hurstville, I grew up in Oatley. Small world sometimes.