I went and paid CRS a visit ( and yes also paid $113!!!) and picked up a gearbox tunnel. Well I tell you what that thing is huge!!!!

I have only rested it  in position at the moment, will take some massaging to get it right but lots of other work to keep me busy for the moment.

Cheers all,    M

Ps, the CRS website price list is only current to some time in 2006, tunnel was priced at $99 (now $113). When I was there I asked for an updated price list only to be told that they don't have one  Ummmm why not?

[quote a
im going over board as usual
[/quote]

Yeah probably, but is there any other way???

Cheers   M

Thanks for that info, I could not actually find the pics of the tunnel but can visualise quite easily, did not consider flat bar.

Will jump on the hand rollers at work and see how good I am.

Cheers,   M

Hello everyone,
                           Long, long time since I have been here and it is real pleasure to see how every ones wheels are coming along.

My query relates to the fitment of a CRS gearbox tunnel and the cutting and replacement of the arched cross member section.

Pretty sure the arch will need to be replaced as the new tunnel is bigger all round. For those that have done this mod, what did you come up with?

These are my thoughts on what to do, make a new arch out of pieces of sheet, two that are essentially the shape of a rainbow with the third piece for the lid forming an arched box section.

Obviously picking up on the existing cross member points.
I do have a NOS cross member section from sill to sill but would rather not have to cut it up for this mod (not that it would fit anyway in all likely hood)

What are your thinkings?

Cheers all,  M

I have a set of 4 NOS door skins, can anyone tell me what price they would likely fetch?

From memory the front passenger door does not have the lock hole cut into it. ( they are hiding behind junk in the shed)

I realise this is a bit of an open ended question as they could go for whatever someone is willing to pay, I am just wanting to know whether to sell them or hang onto them.

Cheers all

Hi all,
         I am pretty handy when it comes to fixing my own cars having had a good mechanical upbringing, so it pains me to tell this embarassing tale that happened to me. :-/

I purchase the Street Machine magazine and I love one of the regular articles called Dirty Stuff, it is written by a mechanic who recounts his daily experiences in the workshop and his dealings with the odd moron.

One silly bloke had his gearbox recoed by this workshop and sucessfully put it back into his car.  The next day the car was placed on the trailer and taken to the drag strip where it did a great 1/4 mile blast, during the slowdown at the end of the strip things didn't sound too good. When the plug was pulled on the box brass shavings came out (the synchros), BUT NO OIL.
Our mate had removed and forgotten about the big red tag that said "BOX CONTAINS NO OIL" that the workshop had wired to the box  

Anyway back to me, I thought to myself, what an idiot, who is that dumb, knuckhead, stupid idiot, loser and a couple of other things I won't mention and had a good old chuckle to myself.

Untill one day when I busted a couple of teeth on the ring gear of the diff on my VH commodore, no probs says me and got a diff from the wrecker. I changed it over one night and worked late as I needed it the next day to go to work.

I drained out the old diff oil, bolted it up in the car, placed the car on the ground and took off down the road ( notice how I left out -filled with new oil-)

Not far down the road I heard birds singing, it was at that stage that I had a really bad feeling ( wonder why)
I pulled over, walked back home and picked up the pump and diff oil, on the way back to the car I was thinking about the things I had thought about our mate with the gearbox, Boy did I have egg on my face.
The diff survived ok luckily.

Happy oiling everyone!!!     Mikey

Hi.
    A lot of the questions you have can be answered in a booklet that Rod Hadfeild has produced, it contains 16 pages of A4 size. It is titled "Bolt in kits for early Holdens"

The first part of the book shows what to do to convert a HD to a Chev or Holden V8. The second part shows the same thing on an FC ute.

Most pages have 6 to 8 photos of the progress with easy to understand instructions of what is being done.

No doubt components can be sourced from other engineers and manufacturers but this is a good booklet as it shows everything needed from start to finish, front ends, rack and pinion steering,  brakes, chassis kits, floor pans mods, where to run extractors that sort of thing.
Castlemaine Rod Shop  (03) 5472 2853.

I hope that helps with some of your problems.

Thanks to all for your help,
                                          I will pay Hoppers Stoppers a visit, they are in the next suburb about 10 mins away.

I have used them before, but only for buying car and trailer brakes (pads, shoes, cups, rubbers, etc) but never knew they were into the modification game.

Sometimes you don't see the pot of gold sitting right under your nose.
Thanks to Jason for showing me to Hoppers all the way from Cairns!

Regards  Mick

Thanks for the input lads, I suppose a bit more info from myself would help.

I have a complete HR frontend, except for the stubaxles, which need to be sourced. Havn't decided what disc setup to run yet.

Graham indicates there are drum type and disc type and so does Jason by saying he had to get his drum type modified to run VT discs brakes.(Jas what was done?)

This is my current understanding,  there are 2 stub types and depending on choice of brakes determines stub type needed.

Gee that was long, please feel to correct me/set me in the right direction.
Thanks  Mick

I was wondering if there is any difference in the stub axles themselves on HR frontends if they are using either drums or discs.
Or is it simply the braking method which is changed?

thanks