I am still trying to work out how many weeks would be appropriate if I were to calculate an appropriate change of name for my builds 

I am enjoying watching the progress.

Sorry haven't had time to come on much. I have a guy at the local car club that has an impala of same year and his original motor was that block. Found out after I got it and then got curious cos it's a very small number.

Sent from my HTC_0PJA10 using Tapatalk

https://youtu.be/yH9QRSTeRN4

This will get you on the right track to his vids. I like how he goes into nitty gritty of blending, taping etc. This particular video shows both 1k and 2k quickly. But some of his vids on guns are good for those interested in more info.

Thanks Frankie. There's definitely more than 1 way to skin a cat. I enjoy coming on here looking at the different ways of doing things and always learning. I have found that practicing on items over the years, even small non auto ones, is good when you can for the non professional to build confidence. If you go on YouTube and type in "the gunman paint", the guy from WA uses a go pro and narrates his jobs and shows feathering and blending really well. It's worth a look Frankie and Graham if your ever bored.

You can't go wrong with that as a base to start with. There's lots of opinions about paints etc. I hope your job turns out really good. Any paint will look good on the mighty fe and fc lol.

Hey Harv I have not been able to find any vehicle with a partial vin or body style 15393. The second part is just the build date. There is a 153 impala that's a 1957 model but this block is a 1967 with 3903352 block. So now I'm trying to work out if it's a replacement engine. After looking now for ages, I still cannot find a vin number without letters starting with 15393. Do you know of anyone who might know how they assigned replacement type engines? Or see in the pic there's a 3 that looks like a later stamp. You know how they stamped Grey's different sometimes etc, I wonder if the 3 has a local authority meaning. I think the vin looks original.

Some more useful info about applying the prep.

Common interchangeable lingo is reducer which is thinner. Hardener/activator which goes in the clear. And colour is called base coat. Here's some tins for you. I'm using these to test colours for the build on certain areas. But I'll be using a better brand for final painting. Here's some pics of the tins for you for the complet 2k system. You will also need a mixing ratio cup to make it easy to mix.

I hope this is of some help. It's cold and hailing here so I'm stuck inside

This guy seems quite good at explaining the 2 types of current 2k systems. https://youtu.be/1YToi5WS1-Q

It can be confusing with 2k because there are 2 different systems being widely used but both are very simple.

Most paint shops just spray 2k epoxy primer straight onto bare metal. It has good enough adhesion to do this. Then there are a few different 2k paint systems. That's why people won't just give you a straight answer because it depends on the basecoat you buy (colour coat). There's a single coat system

Ie, 1, epoxy 2k primer then a one shoot mix that has hardner and clear within that actual paint. This is all you do.

2, there is the second system that requires a clear coat to be sprayed onto a flat base coat to react with the basecoat, to give you your final gloss finish. With this one (which I believe is most popular), the base coat will dry flat if you were to let it completely dry. This system is in my opinion better for your use if doing yourself because you can put base coat on and if your happy with what you see there and then, you just follow the instruction on your paint system (you wait x amount of time for the paint to tac or flash off, like a nearly dry state. This depends on factors like humidity, temp etc), then if your happy you can spray your 2k clear straight on (this mix has the dangerous hardner in it). If you accidentally got an imperfection or run using this type, you can stop at the base coat stage and let it completely dry, resand it and respray the panel with base coat again, then do your final clear coat (with activator hardener), then your done.

A single 2k one shot colour coat might be useful on areas that you want high gloss but not critical like fuel tanks or more obscure parts.

So with the 2k in short it goes like this

2k primer (many put straight on bare metal but you can use a 1k etch, that's the bit that you won't get consensus on). Then spray on the basecoats (depends on how many coats you choose) then you do your clear coat with the hardner  activator in it and your done.

As I said, there are variations with different systems but 2k is by far the easiest system but you need a booth to spray it safely and the best possible multi stage facemask.

Dads been a sprayer for 50 years. He reckons current acrylic paints aren't like they used to be so he told me not to use them.

Your question about filler is also interesting. Most filler companies say apply to bare metal still but most good restorers agree to put it over the 2k primer sealer. That's because it's not porous and many now accept fillers. I prefer to do mine that way because 1k primers don't usually specify compatibility with fillers like 2k ones do on the tech sheets.

The guy at the start of this video explains the 2 current 2k systems.

I'm not familiar with current acrylic systems cos I don't know anyone that still uses acrylic but I hope I've explained the 2k process as easy as possible for you.

Some ppl vary from these usual methods though. Some ppl get their hardner mixed up with thinners I think. If the paint needs thinning then you will need to use the thinner designed for your paint you buy too. You don't use general thinner in 2k paints.

I'm sure others might have some variances. My advice to you if you get your bits blasted is to be sure your blaster gives you the correct info as to what primer they are using when blasting parts because you need to be thinking ahead as to your paint system. The beauty if epoxy 2k primer is that it will accept almost any base coat paint from any system whereas 1k won't. That's why ppl are favouring it. It's also a moisture barrier whereas 1k primers are generally not.

You need to prime them straight away after blasting, not leaving them too long in normal etch primer and probably a better way to go if they will sit for a while is with epoxy 2k primer. It depends on the paint system you will use later as some primers aren't compatible with some topcoats. I'm in a real dry climate and I was surprised how long it took a blasted section that I left bare to rust. With normal etch primer, it can be drawing in moisture without you noticing the rust. I did a 1 year experiment cos I kept getting told different things and 2k epoxy was definitely ok to leave for a while but normal 1k etch had blackish spots underneath. I prefer to lightly sand some bits that were very dirty and not clean prior to blasting cos if you look at it closely you can sometimes see fine tiny balls of crap blasted into the metal. It should also be rubbed with wax and grease remover. You won't get consensus on this but many ppl put the epoxy primer straight onto bare blasted metal but etch primer is supposed to condition the metal and contains extra agents. Probably best to ask ppl like Frankie J who have been in the restoration business for many years and actually has cars done over 20 years ago and sees them years later with no surface rust. In short, if you know the paint system you will use to the end, might be best to read the info sheets. I'd like to do another experiment myself using that new clear sealer base to see how that goes. Also, I think some ppl blame paints when they get rust return (when done correctly) when in fact it may have been that the spray setup itself allowed moisture onto the panel. So you need water traps and filters etc.

I am really enjoying watching it go back together and the insights/reflection you give (and others) about what has previously been done and what's happening now.

Sorry lol was supposed to say is this the same as the trucks! A lot of the previous pics aren't working. I've always thought a fuel/oil themed Ute or truck of that era would be cool. Has anyone got any pics of other Fj, fe or fc with other brands? I may have missed them from years ago. Thanks.

(Edited due to blonde moment) Have you seen this one Ken? I really like the paint scheme. Is this the same paint scheme as the trucks?

There's usually letters tacked on to tell where is came from. I reckon I won't be able to work this one out. The 53 checks out to a biscayne impala I found last night but I can't see a body style mateching the 93. I went over the c10 decoders and numbers and its not a truck motor. Just need to know which biscanye body style it was. Not sure why the 3 is different. I suppose my question now is, were there any codes specific to Australia that weren't used in Canada. Thanks Harv.

Hi

I am having trouble finding any online info about McKinnon stamps for the vin numbers. I would like to know if this number 3 would have been stamped here when it was assigned to a vehicle or whether my suspicion that this is a replacement or crate type motor in its day, hence why I can't find a 93 body style. It's a Feb 1967 327 assembled block from Mckinnons. I'm just not familiar with such a small vin.

I thought I would ask here first because I don't really use other forums but if anyone knows who would be best to contact, would be much appreciated.

It had blue valve covers which seems a bit strange. It's an L30. Vin is:   15393 k0213.

Thanks.

Dean.

Great to see you back into it. That's gunna have some nice crisp lines and look awesome when finished. Well done.

Good work NES.

The rack was finished a little while ago and we are about to make the brackets. Soon I should have the front end together so I'll update then. Have been doing but n pieces as I can but have the shed fairly sorted and have nearly finished the house off so planning to have a decent run in spring.

I have been making some progress and have a bit more done on the floor patching with this section being the last last biggest bit. Does anyone know where I can buy the b pillar captive nut kits for the seatbelts online? I already have the floor ones.

Some good progress there.

Deano.