Very nice, looks like you got a very good starting point for a 1st car.  When you learn to drive it, it will teach you good habits, like leaving a gap to the car in front and cruising up to red lights so hopefully they are green when you get there so you don't have to stop to select 1st. 

A project like this will also teach you a lot of worth while skills, good luck with it, looking forward to seeing progress pics along the way
Cheers Mick

Make sure you use the right gasket behind the metering block, (between main body and float bowl) there are two types from memory, if you use the wrong one it runs very rich as it draws in fuel in through a vacuum port.

If you can get hold of a vacuum gauge it is also easy to select the right power valve, make sure you connect it to good size hole like PCV port on manifold, you don't want to dampen the movement of the needle on the gauge, take note of the lowest reading at idle, if for example the needle fluctuates between 10 and 15 inches at idle select a power valve lower than 10 (the valves are labled at their opening point, 80 opens at 8.0 and below)this prevents the valve opening at idle. 

Have a good look at the throttle shaft in the base plate, excessive play there means air will leak in making it hard to set the idle mixture, spray WD 40 around it when running and if it's leaking the idle will change (keep fire extinguisher handy) .  If its got to much play you can have them re-bushed.

Try and get the reusable gaskets ( I think Holley does them) saves a lot of time and money, because you will probably have the carb apart a few times to get it right. 

The float height is easy to adjust screw and lock nut on top of the bowl, there is a level plug on the side.  there are different positions for the accelerator and cams available as well. 

As Harv said they're not a bad carb, and easy to live with, you will soon get your head around it

Cheers Mick

This probably won't apply to your situation, but just in case.  The angle of the output shaft of the gearbox should be the same as the differential flange.  The reason for this is that universal joints are not constant velocity devices (for an example grab your uni out of your socket set and run it through a large angle as you rotate it, it speeds up and slows down), so you need to run them in pairs and phase them correctly so that they cancel out any velocity fluctuations. 

The phasing is taken care of by the way the flanges are welded to the tail shaft (unless its a Commodore with a centre bearing and CV joint).  The angle of the output shaft of the gearbox is controlled by the mounts, although it can be altered with shims under the mounts. The angle of the pinion flange is controlled by the spring mounting pad on the axle assembly (assuming a leaf spring is used) I have seen these adjusted with wedge shaped spacers (like small lowering blocks), They are sometimes deliberately set up slightly out, as the axle housing tends to rotate slightly upwards when under driving loads.

Cheers Mick

Am going to go with triple 1 /4" SU's on my grey motor, I've got a manifold and am looking for some 1 1/4" SU carbs. Anyone got any at all they want to part with? even if I get them one at a time as long as I can make up a set.

Mick

When you find some try and collect them so they have the float bowls on the left hand side when looking from the air cleaner (floats to the front), gives more room with the back carb, and minimises fuel surge.  That way the fuel flows towards the main jet when accelerating
Happy hunting Mick

Cleaner than a laser cutter no feathering or splintering awesome.

we cut 20mm jarah last week you have to see it to believe it.

I can do 100mm timber 0.1mm accurate 0.7mm wide cut

Pete

Thanks for the offer Pete, you'll get me thinking about making more bits that I could have bought!
Cheers Mick

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still struggling with the bucket

Not much progress on the body at the moment, but I have finished the steering wheel, will have to make another wheel boss as I have now adapted VK shaft to FE column, hope to get body finished with holiday at the end of year[/img][/youtube][/img]

Kieth,
If you don't mind modern technology, you could use diodes, you can put them in near the tail lights and wire them in to the reverse lights.  I'd put the diodes in near the globes on the reverse lights circuit one on each side.  That way you can use a single filament globe.  Any competent auto elect you could you where to put them and supply diodes (or J car or equivalent)
Cheers Mick

Thanks Jason, I knew someone would know
Cheers Mick

Does anyone know where the term FX came from, and when did it start to get used. Some one asked me as they are writing a book and want to keep it accurate

I think I have some will have a look over the weekend if you still need them,  I have also have a set of 13 by 7 hot wires if you're interested

It has probably been done before, can anyone help me a reproduction of the owners manual FE, even a scanned copy/electronic file would be nice
Cheers Mick

Have a look at a Triumph Rocket motorcycle 2.3 litre engine with 3 cylinders I think it has 3 throttle bodies and injectors, might be made to work would then have to add programable ECU
Goodluck Mick

Just to add something else, there is also grouped injection, where 1,3,5 fire together 2,4,6 work together. 

Oxygen sensors are usually there for feed back when the system goes to closed loop, warm engine constant throttle light load (cruise), the ECU then looks at the signal from the EGO sensor (some are heated for faster operation HEGO) the ECU then trys to achieve the ideal air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1 and adjusts injector pulse width accordingly.  You can see this happening on a dyno with a volt meter and gas analyser.

When the engine is lean there is no output from the EGO, as it gets rich it goes up to 1 volt, when they are in closed loop they constantly cycle up and down, it doesn't look for the middle it constantly goes from rich to lean.  If the system has adaptive learning it will move the whole fuel map a few percent up or down from the original program (some code readers will tell you how much).  This is why when you have a problem on a car with this system sometimes you can get an improvement in its running by disconnecting the battery, because then it goes back to it's original map.

Just because a FI system has a EGO sensor doesn't mean that it will do all the work for you, they are basically there for economy and fine tuning the system to the engine as it wears etc. someone still has to come up with MAP.

Having said that don't be put off, most of my experience with FI systems has been with original equipment, I have done a little mapping with aftermarket stuff and its very user friendly, but can be time consuming, especially if you don't have access to a gas analyser

You will be able to adapt sensors, injectors etc. easily enough, the mapping will be a bit challenging

Cheers Mick

Is there an ARP rod bolt that fits the 202 red motor?

Does any one know what ARP rod bolts fit a red 202. I know starfire/blue/black motor rods are a better option but I was only freshening this motor up a little and was after something a bit better (have already got carried away). The ARP site does mention Holden but not much in the way of details, I think they are 253/308 bolts.

I had HR, EH when I first started driving in the seventies with most of the usual mods, but they where never completed to a standard I was happy with, mostly because I needed to keep them going.  I found this FE ute about 12 years ago but hoped I'd find a better one, no luck, so I got this in July 2007.  Progress has been slow because a change of job meant that I had to complete a uni degree.  Anyway at least it's started, doing all the mods first so paint and body repairs will be last

the part with the FJ in is Lyons Rd. Drummoyne just going past Gipps St. heading west some of the original buildings are still recognisable

Hi all, does anyone have the address for the wreckers at Cooma ? is it open all weekend ? phone no ?
Thanks Gordon

It's 408 Snowy Mountains Hwy Cooma, the phone No. is 6452 1866 Wayne is the man in charge.  Last time I was there he only opened Saturday morning, besides week days of course.  Its a bit sad to see those cars out in the open roting, but at least they aren't being crushed!
Cheers Mick

Looks like Cooma wrecking yard am i correct. This bloke will let you through his yard for a $10 bucks, well worth a look. More of a museum than a wreckers.

Yep it's Flynns of Cooma, the first time time I got in for free (many years ago)