The hard part will be deciding what parts to bring back from the US in the four empty suitcases

Safe travels.

Cheers,
Harv

Bend up a length of coathanger wire into the shape (and length) that you want the top hose to be. Repeat for the lower hose too. Measure the diameter of the radiator inlet and outlet pipes, and the diameter of the pipes on the RB30.

Take the two lengths of wire and notepaper to Supercheap/Autobahn/Repco and have a forage through their hose bins. Don't forget a tapemeasure to check hose diameter. You may get lucky and find a hose that fits, but more likely will find one that needs to be cut down. Sometimes places like Repco store their hoses behind the counter - if you ask nice, they will sometimes let you forage there too.

Cheers,
Harv

Welcome

Cheers,
Harv

Got my gaskets today. Thanks Harv

No problem 

Cheers,
Harv

Hi Harv,

Gaskets arrived in Murrumbateman today in pristine condition. Thank you for your time, effot and patience.

Cheers n Beers
Craig

Welcome

Cheers,
Harv

As promised, I have posted out the gaskets yesterday. You should have either:
 
a) a PM message giving you your Aussie Post tracking number, or
b) a PM message asking for your address so I can post them.
 
Gaskets are single wrapped in cellophane, and put in with copies of the NASCO information, a warning on installation, and info from the new manufacturer. All that is sandwiched between ply, and wrapped in tape.
 
I still have some gaskets left if there are any stragglers.
 
Cheers,
Harv

From memory I took these from the FB/EK Workshop Manual but they may help.




Cheers,
Harv

There should be at least one mounting nut dropped and lost in there too 

Cheers,
Harv

Some info I have posted over on the FB/EK forum, edited to suit your situation.

Both my FB sedan and my EK wagon have seatbelts, fitted by me.

For my FB sedan I have non-retractable lap/sash belts in the outer positions, and lap belts in the centre. I have this in both the front, and the rear.
For my EK wagon I have retractable lap/sash belts in the outer positions, and lap belts in the centre. I have this in both the front, and the rear. For the rear, I mounted the reels on the wheelarch, and put the sash guide on the "C" pillar.

My understanding in NSW is:
a) if you are undertaking modifications that require an engineers certificate, then seat belts must be installed for all seating positions. Lap/sash seat belts are required for all front and rear outboard seating positions. Lap/sash or lap belts shall be fitted to inboard seating positions. The level of safety provided by seat belts must not be reduced. Seat belts must not be replaced by belts of a lesser standard or with second-hand belts. For example, lap only belts must not be used in place of retracting lap/sash seat belts. This is based on the NSW RTA Vehicle Standards Information Sheets No 6. for light vehicle modifications. My wagon went through this process, and has a full VSCCS (engineering) certificate. As Rob notes, it is not cheap.
b) if you do not require an engineers certificate, then you do not need to fit seatbelts. However, if you are carrying kiddies, the following apply:
Children younger than six months must be secured in a rearward facing restraint.
Children aged six months to under four years must be secured in either a rear or forward facing restraint.
Children aged four years to under seven years must be secured in forward facing child restraint or booster seat.
Children younger than four years cannot travel in the front seat of a vehicle with two or more rows.
Children aged four years to under seven years cannot travel in the front seat of a vehicle with two or more rows, unless all other back seats are occupied by children younger than seven years in a child restraint or booster seat.
I understand that the above child restraint laws are retrospective (i.e. that they are not "grandfathered" just because the FB/EK came out with no belts orginally). You would need to fit belts to meet the above.
c) if you are installing belts not for engineering certificates or for child restraint (but more for peace of mind,as is your case I think) then you can choose which positions get belts and which don't.
d) Any installed seatbelts (even the peace of mind ones) that are not subject to full engineering must be approved by an RTA Authorised Restraint Fitting Station. This is not an engineers certificate, just an inspection and basic form to sign off and fairly cheap (>$100). Most fitting Stations will not let you do the work yourself (to a decent standard) and then inspect and certify it - most will only certify if they do the work themselves (in the end it's their signature on the line). It pays to check with the one you have in mind before you fire up the drill and spanners to DIY. My FB sedan was "certified" this way and has the simple piece of paper to keep in the glovebox. This process was cheap (a hundred dollars or so compared to a few thousand for full engineering).
e) Some Fitting Stations require full compliance to ADR5 (http://www.comlaw.gov.au/Details/F2009C ... 5628295870) when you install - there are some tricky bits in ADR/5 about how far apart the belts can be. Again, check with the Fitting Station you have in mind before flashing up the tools. I did an ADR/5 compliant system for my EK wagon. I took a full set of photos and measurements, and have turned it into a draft Guide. If you want a draft copy, let me know an email address.

I could be wrong with the above understanding of NSW legislation - happy to hear alternative views.

Cheers,
Harv

Lower hose: Gates part number 05-0004,  Mackay part number CH313
Upper hose: Gates part number 05-0008, Mackay part number CH482

Cheers,
Harv

A quick update.

The good news: the gaskets have been manufactured, and have been posted to me by the supplier. Should arrive at my place via Aussie Post mid this week. All the packing plywood has been cut, instructions printed out and addresses labelled ready to go.

The bad news: I’ve gone back to work, so the gaskets won’t get posted out until I get home again. Aiming to get these into the post for you on Monday, 5th February. Apologies for the delay - had hoped they would arrive before my holiday ended, but no such luck.

Cheers,
Harv

My engine test stand needs are pretty basic. It gets used a couple of times a year at most. My space is limited, so I needed something that would double up for storage.

I use the simple SBC engine cradles that a lot of different companies sell (I suspect all made in China, then rebranded by others) like this:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256067658152?epid=1643664753&hash=item3b9ed261a8:g:suwAAOSwtXtkqo2~&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4FJRBAO0sElxIDTuRtnJJtk8DTrqxPQXQ8VSKnTRRpjkouO%2B80zkg%2BBzaVL5xpxLD%2ByNNANWTIJEfuuIxYj5rv5HE9%2BExuufbl5O10auGOJXPxcrTrtcqGuVLQrD0jvUxF9KUcphgIKbqsaHYlQxbFotDSajTpflzc%2FhzGpTXndqiv3z%2BAFInAQEQxcHz5okZf5RzCB4UsTJ9ZIUBjzxsCrdU2lWpFBD5EQaBNjrqeKHvhcpR3tnWgV%2FlSaBsoBphhHfHri9H5xUJ0h7eQTapktcKBOywplgVsAQdyIxN89w%7Ctkp%3ABFBM2qro0Z5j

Note that this one is expensive, as you pay for the Aeroflow sticker. Buy the same thing without the sticker and more than halve the price.

A piece of angle iron bolted across the front lets me pick up the two front engine mount bolts. Two galvanised right-angle brackets (from Bunnings) bolted to the rear sit under the sump rail. All up I'm in for under $100. I use this setup to store my spare/junk/parts engines - lets me move them around to get at "the one at the back". There is enough balance that I can run an engine only, or an engine and gearbox (though the gearbox wants to tilt down). They sit moderately close to the ground, and are wide enough that it takes a fair amount of effort to tip one over.

When they get used as run stands, I connect the battery via jumper cables. A couple of years back I got cute and bought battery cables from Supercheap, but that is overkill. A single wire to the starter solenoid (bare end... touch to the terminal to start) is needed - I use the "test lead with two alligator clamps" that I use for 12V troubleshooting. For fuel I run rubber hose to the carb, supplied by plastic bottle. I sling the bottle from the carport rafters with tie wire (the fuel setup is somewhat sketchy, but with care works). Short runs (a minute of so) you don't need cooling. Longer runs (more than a minute) I run the garden hose into the water pump, gaffa-taped in place. No thermostat, and a piece of 20" bicycle inner-tube used to direct the spent water away from the motor (el-cheapo fire hose). If I'm worried about oil pressure I'll fit a test gauge. Zorst out through the headers, no muffler (my neighbours are understanding). Remove the mechanical fan, leave the pulley in place.

I don't tend to do long runs, like the 20 minutes to bed-in a cam. Most of my stuff is "will it run?" or "playing silly buggers with some new carb setup". For longer runs, I put the engine into the vehicle (as the next stage is usually "it works.... test drive!!!").

Sometimes things don't go as planned. Testing a set of CHC fuel injection on a grey I filled the cylinders with fuel and pumped burning fuel out the exhaust. The pavers survived, but it took me a while to unclench. As a younger Harv I once helped dad set fire to a Mini as we were running the zorst straight out the head, no headers 

I wear ear muffs, as doing dumb crap like running open headers sneaks up on you, until one day you keep asking people "what?" when they speak.
I get the fire extinguisher out and ready a few metres back from the circus.
I put a nozzle on the garden hose and pressure it up, leaving it near the extinguisher. Not great on a fuel fire, but if things get really out of hand it's good to prevent fire spread whilst the fireys come.
I limit the amount of fuel in the bottle to about 300mL.

Cheers,
Harv

Copied from Blacky's post on the FB/EK forum:

OK kids - they are FINALLY ready 😎😎😎

Not by me though - I was talking to a bloke in Perth about having sunvisor ends made and I mentioned to him that I was partway through making these things and he said that he would be happy to make them so I helped him out with a couple of things and now they are ready for sale.

His name is Richard and he owns a company called Billetworks, their main gig is building collapsible steering columns for earlies but he also makes lots of FX/FJ bits including hubcaps, FX grille badges , grey motor harmonic balancer removal and installation tools , etc etc .

Their number is 08 9309 2080 and the contacts are $75 including a new bush to fit into the steering wheel.

Cheers,
Harv

Spoke to the gasket supplier today. They are on track, and due to ship to him by the end of December. All going well, I should have these out to people by the end of January depending on logistics. Might be later if I get tied up with work but will try and get the out as soon as I can.

Cheers,
Harv

Short update. All those who have committed to gaskets have paid. Total of 66 gaskets. Still have 30-odd gaskets spare, though experience shows the stragglers will take those over the next 6 months.

Will chase the gasket supplier this week and see how far away the order is. The lead time was quoted as 6-8 weeks, with 6 weeks being up on December 14th.

Cheers,
Harv

H Harv,
You should have payment from the VIC Club by now.
Thanks again
Trevor_B

Payment received, with thanks.

Cheers,
Harv

Orders are finalised, and each of you should have received a PM requesting payment. Please PM me if there are any problems.

Cheers,
Harv

Last call for orders please. I’ll close things off at midnight Thursday night, then will ask for payment please. Stragglers may be subject to a late fee (the kind that comes in brown bottles).

I have orders for 51 gaskets total from:
FB/EK   Parisian62
FE/FC   DougT
FE/FC   Jolls
Email   Darryl
Email   Darren
FX/FJ   SGO
FX/FJ   earleebob
FX/FJ   Andrew Donaldson
FB/EK   BS
FE/FC   Trevor_B
FE/FC   Floyd58
Phone   Engine rebuilder

Cheers,
Harv

EBay I think. The seller was unsure what it did.

Cheers,
Harv

Could you possibly check the resistance between the negative and positive leads to the rheostat with the dial set at in and out?

Fifteen (15) ohms. Measured at one terminal (as it is nice and clean and a robust fitment) and at the carbon brush (as the little wire that leads from there to the gauge is manky and fragile).

Cheers,
Harv