you could try Eddie Dobbs at JD Motors (8 Gladstone St, Dandenong). Eddie races his FE at Sandown and, as a result, is always rebuilding them..

Jonno

this is a bit odd:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260577589511&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_1182

I would have thought that the company was only formed mid 60's but I guess they could have done a retro job on a grey motor head. Or maybe just a can of yellow paint ?

J

one of these *might* fit...and if the GBP continues its downward spiral, they might even be affordable soon.

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=083&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Heaters+%26+Electrical+Fans&agCode=0206&agName=Circular+Heater+Elements

Jonno

G'day Neil, as some one who has been down this road if you can't do the work yourself forget it, just do the sums 
                                           car   $4000
                                 rust repairs  $1000
                                          paint  $5000
                                    rubber kit  $2000
                                             =   $12000 (estimate)

And that's not touching mechanicals, upholstery etc, you would be much better off finding a car that has already been done, you would get something really nice for a lot less than that.
                       Pedro

mmm...as someone who was not able to do bodywork myself....I have spent a truckload more than $1000 on rust repairs! At current prices that would only get you a few days of someone's time. Find the best body that you can...

I think that I found the answer to my own question.  This rather useful catalogue gives all the suspension part numbers for many different cars:

http://www.roadsafe.com.au/downloads/catalogue_edition_5_online.pdf

Page 76 suggests that HR front ends have 2 x TE189Rs (outer tie rods) and 2 x TE358L's (inner tie rods) i.e. left and right are the same.

HK onwards seem to have right and left threaded versions so left and right are different.

J

Hi,

I'm starting to rebuild the steering linkages for my HR front end and slowly becoming more confused. I had expected, from this earlier thread (http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,7632.0.html) that the left and right tie rods might be different, presumably with different threads. However, on the old one that that I am taking apart, the left and right sides (inner, outer tie rods and spacer tube) all seem to have the same threads i.e left and right seem identical.

Also, down my 'local' old parts supplier, I was quoted (and shown) an outer tie rod which seemed to fit the bill but this had part number TE189R.

So, I guess my 2 questions are...are both sides the same and what are the correct part numbers for inner and outer tie rods?

If the 2 sides are different then presumably the spacer tubes are also different left to right (OK...so maybe that's a third question )

thanks, Jonno

here's the last Ford that I bought



found in Cowra, completely rust free, now residing somewhere in the UK (long story)...

Interesting that if you import a classic car into the UK, they will try to issue you with the appropriate 'age' rego plates, if an appropriate number is available, at no charge...hence the period plates. Shown here touring Scotland in early 90's..

Jonno

Would there be much call for a waterproof door card?
I can get hold of some gear that would suit.

sounds like a good idea to me.

J

Has anyone tried these for FE two-tone front doors? It seems to me that the holes for the divider are not quite in the same place as my existing ones.

Jonno

OK thanks...sounds like those colours are all pretty similar..

Jonno

excellent..thanks John...I'll see if I can dredge up some paint formulas.

Jon

Hi All,

I wonder if any of the owners of these wonderful cars could tell me what paint colours they used as I would like something similar for my ute and need a starting point (apologies for reproducing other folk's photos..):



Its been a very long time coming but I think that we are getting close to painting time:



Jonno

Hi Stinky,
I have a couple of samples to donate....PM me your address and they will be in the post tomorrow. I think that one is your grey/brown, the other maybe the green you are after. They look better in the flesh...can't be bothered calibrating photoshop colours.



I'll keep the Vegemite..

Jonno

P.S. would be great if this works out....I will be up for several.

thanks Will...maybe I'll give it a try after all.

J

Hi Will,

How do you stop it blocking the fuel pick-up line inside the tank? I bought one of these a while ago but never dare us it for that reason...

Jon

yes...I think that, despite the common name, its usually sodium hydroxide that is used. That said some dippers do use phosphoric acid or even hydrochloric (although anything pulled out of the latter will rust very quickly unless neutralised). I guess the risk is that the solution will be very hard to remove from box sections etc.. I have certainly found it hard to remove even from hidden parts of bonnets so would not like to do a full body shell this way. Bead or soda blasting is pretty good....it does take months to get rid of the stuff afterwards...but at least its not eating away at your car in the mean time.

there is a similar discussion here, including a link to a mob in dandenong:

http://www.dsk.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?p=54956&sid=1d59f61394196af0296d8d02e856b7e8

but....I would tend to agree that it would be safer to bead blast the shell and acid dip the panels..

Jonno

I have used Colorex in Huntingdale for doors, bonnets, subframe...not too far from Dandenong.

some here if you can't find any elsewhere:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/INDICATOR-LENSES-FOR-HOLDEN-FC-SPECIAL-NEW-OLD-STOCK_W0QQitemZ330327832858QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item330327832858&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A10%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

well...my trip to the shed wasn't entirely successful.  The measurements are shown below but it seems that, on this car at least (which I had thought was largely original), the emblem is mounted too low. On my ute (which isn't here right now for me to look at) the emblem is definitely higher, more like the 26mm Alex referred to.

So, it might be best to check another car or three first but then, maybe just add the appropriate amount (16mm?) to the vertical measurements below.  This diagram should at least give you the relative positions of the holes.  Note the 2 central ones seem to go through the bonnet and the bracing below so it might be 'interesting' to get that lined up nicely.

Jonno