Hi Alex .. yes the long channel goes into the door frame along the top and down the pillar side.. the other shallow channel goes into the divisional channel,.. the shallow one is not the problem, it's the one that goes into the top of the door and side .. did one door and managed to get it in one side with a fair bit of force, but it would not go into the top of the door, so used an old one that was in fair condition ..not sure whether the window glass will go in yet as it closed the gap up a bit,. second door it would not go into at all .. the car has been sandblasted and painted, but not a lot of paint went into the channels so it's not the paint stopping it, I reckon the channels supplied by Rares may be out of tolerance , but they are a cunning lot.. as they state on the fitting instructions, if you can call them that,  if you damage the stainless strip, it's your fault and not theirs and you won't get your money back .... only tried the back 2 doors so far, will be fitting the front doors in a day or two  .. that is when I get the back door, two bottom felt strips in,( but thats another story .. arrrrgh !!) .and the glass, if it goes in. .. Stephen

Hi Craig .. yes all old clips were removed .. new bailey channel sits out about 3/16 of an inch and is firm.. almost as if the bailey width is too wide and will not compress further into the channel .. Stephen

Hi Everyone .. putting in new Bailey channel from Rare Spares and have looked at the past instructions which are very helpful, .. but cannot see anything on how to get them in the channel when they are a tight fit .. ruined one length already as when they are pushed in the stainless strip separates from the felt and is impossible to get back in .. is this normal ?? or is it lack of quality ??  they went in OK ( very tight ) on one door, when I did the other side  they do not go in, and when pushed they come apart, and still do not go all the way in .. anyone else had this problem ??. and if so how did you overcome it,?? .. Regards Stephen   

Hi .. thats possibly what he was thinking as well, but that wasn't the reason he gave for upping the price, ..it was the travelling time / distance .. but they come down this way on a regular basis, and I was quite happy to wait until they came down next time, whether it was a week or a month away .. I personally think it was Stinky's reason .. Old car restorer, he's got plenty of money, lets get as much as we can out of him .. Thats my opinion and  I for one will not deal with them again, .. I have 5 cars, and usually one gets a windscreen each year thru insurance, so will be going to the Irish man O'Brians in future.. Regards Stephen

Hi Muz .. You might want to try Grease Blaster by Auto King, ( MITRE 10 have it) then a polish by Auto Glym called Vinyl & Rubber Care .. BUT .. before spraying on a large part, we recommend to try a spot check with the Grease Blaster on a small area not seen first .. it is really good stuff, but powerful .. we did all our original vinyl upholstery and door trims when they were out of the car .. and it looks like they it just came out of the factory .. we ( my wife) will be trying some on our  roof lining on the weekend as we have a few small stains as well we will try to get off,  .. we did the sun visors, they are made of the same material as the roof lining and they were filthy, but came up as new with the Grease Blaster ..hope this helps .. Regards Stepheno

Hi .. hope this is the right place for this, just going to relate something that happened to me last week with re-installing front and rear windows .. February this year, our Hilux ute needed a new windscreen .. so we thought that when the windscreen mob came down they could pull the front and rear windows from out FC at the same time,.. as we were restoring it .. Instant Windscreens were picked ?? no real reason just heard some good reports about them .. so after making arrangements by phone and getting a quote to do the FC at the same time, we were told they would be down this way ( Victor Harbor) in a week as they regularly came down to do jobs for a major Crash Repair company  .. anyway they quoted $150 to take front and back screens out and $150 to put them back in a few months time .. No Problems , seemed OK to me, they came, did the ute and the FC , nice bloke too... Rang them last week to let them know that the FC was ready to have the screens put back in, and was told will be about 2 weeks for them to come down as the bloke that did them was on holidays, no problems .. after 2 weeks they rang and said the bloke that originally did the screens quit his job, but someone will be down mid morning in a couple of days Wednesday .. Wednesday morning came and I get a phone call from Instant Windscreens saying that the boss will not put both the windows in for a $150, but wants $225 per window !!!!as it was a long way to travel ( Aldinga to Victor Harbor about 35 to 40 minutes, and they came down regularly anyway ?? ) .. Told the chap that rang me ( who also was sympathetic) to tell his Boss something I cannot put in here and asked a local bloke, who was only too happy to get $150 for an hours work .. so the moral of the story is GET YOUR QUOTES IN WRITING ..Just thought I would relate this as I personally think it was wrong,.. if a Company gives a quote they should stick to it ... Regards Stephen

Thanks Ken ..one up for me

Hi everyone .. does anyone know how the floor mats go in ??.. I say the front mats go over the rear mats where they meet along side the front seat, my wife says the rear mat goes over the front mat as it has a neater squarer cut to it   I know it's only a trivial matter but does anyone know how they came out of the factory Regards Stephen

Nice old Gilbert & Barker visible Petrol Pump behind the Taxi's , wonder if it is still there

Roots definitely in the USA but when you pay your account it goes to Geneva .. so a bit of both

No Problems .. thanks for the reply fchoon.. Stephen

Hi  .. Spray painter lost one of the bolts that holds the mudguard on, .. this is one of the 3 that go into the guard from the inside of the car ,.. currently have put one in the top and bottom to hold it on, .. if no one has one can anyone please advise what the thread is, and where I would get on in Adelaide .. they end of the bolt has a groove in it to locate in the thread >> so a special type of bolt .. quite happy to pay for bolt and postage if someone has a spare .. Regards Stephen.

OK .. Problems solved .. new it was something simple !!!!! adjusted the striker plate outwards so the second catch could locate and fixed the problem .. because the door would not go in I thought logically by moving the striker plate in further the door would be pulled in .. WRONG  .. it just takes the plate further away from that second latch .. by moving the striker plate out it let the second latch move in PULLING the door all the way in .. Thanks Roy and all the others that tried to help .. hope this helps other junior restorer in the future .. logic does not prevail at all time ?? ( well .. my logic anyway) .. Regards Stephen

Thanks Frank .. I used 1 rubber for each door, no stretching .. will check it out  .. but even now you can push the door into where it should go, without a lot of effort, and there is no way it will stay in, as the striker will not adjust in far enough, and being 60 klms or so away from nearest member doesn't help   .. thanks Roy will try.. Stephen

Hi Ed .. so what your saying is to cut the back of the seal by 1/3 where it goes across the hinge on the back pillar ? .. if I do that, then the rear door may fit, but still have the problem with the front door .. I used part of the old rubber on the front door, around the top of the mudguard, down to the bottom of the door, it was in OK condition, and hoped it would stop that tongue that hangs out of most FC with new rubbers .. will try to shim behind the door plates in side the door to give some movement out, and see if it brings the back of the door in .. will be fitting passenger side doors today, hopefully, so will see how they turn out .. stephen

Hi Ed .. same shims that came off went back on,striker plate has plenty of movement, just not enough .. something is not right .. just wondering if the new rubber that go across the hinge on the rear door need trimming of the rear of them to make them flatter will try to upload some photos .. stephen

Hi .. before the car was stripped .. all doors fitted perfectly, and if I had no damaged the rubbers pulling them out I would have refitted them,... all door locks, screws etc were placed in plastic bags, and put in a separate box and marked which door that came from as they came off the car .. so that they would not be mixed up and would go back the way they came off .. original doors going back on Alex.. front doors were taken off via the 3 bolts inside the door, not the 3 philips head screws on the body pillar, .. rear doors were taken off with philips head screws on the door pillar .. all original hinges and locks going back on the same way they came off ? .. It does not look like the new rubbers are stopping the doors from going back in,  because they just touch the door, with very little pressure when the door body striker plate is in it's fully adjusted position, ie furthest inside the car .. No Ken .. did not try the doors without the rubbers, the painter had the doors and the shell, and they put the doors on without the rubbers to line them up when blocking , but they did not have the striker plates only the screws & bolts that held the doors on, and I don't think it  would matter if the bolts or screws were mixed up >>> Maybe I have the striker too far in and the teeth on the lock will not fully engage will mess around with it today by pulling striker plate out and see what happens / .. as I said before it does not appear that the rubbers are holding the door from going in, just that their is not enough adjustment on the striker plates .. Regards Stephen

Hi .. I know this has been covered before and have "searched" the forum for info, but still unsure how to get the doors back in place after the paint job .. eg.. the front and back door sit out about 3/4 of an inch, with the door lock striker's adjusted inwards as far as possible ( end even a bit more after hitting with the hammer in frustration) .. the car has new rubbers, but when the door is pressed in hard it compresses them, and if the striker plate was able to be adjusted another 3/4" of an inch, they would sit nice and firm, so it's not the rubbers stopping them going in, .. just that the striker plate does not have enough adjustment .. the question is .. can anyone tell me how is this fixed?? .. With the front of the front door it is low at the top and in a bit too far, so I guess I will have to try & undo the 3 large philips head screws  on the top hinge and try and pull the door out a bit .. the main query is how to get more adjustment on the striker plate attached to the car body .. do I have to file an elongated hole or is there an easier solution .. Regards Stephen

Good luck Azz

Hi Azz .. sorry but cannot help with a boot lock retainer, .. just fitted mine ( had to lock the Missus in the boot, as she has smaller hands, to get it fitted) and am now fitting front door locks and have noticed that the small round lock that the key goes into looks like it has the same retaining clip that the boot lock has, if someone on the Forum can confirm this, then it may be easier to get a door lock retaining clip from a donor car or station wagon ?  .. hope this helps .. Regards Stephen