Well I've done it  - finally  - It's been a very long drawn out process but -the ute is registered and done nearly 100 miles and other than a partly blocked main jet in one of carbies it's running perfectly. 











I thought it would be good to drive because all the old Holdens I had years ago were worn out and this ute has had everything rebuilt from the ground up but I can't believe how good it is and an absolute joy to drive. I can't get the smile off my face.   The great reaction from the general public was something I wasn't prepaired for, from old people that remembered "the old days" to younger people giving a wave and thumbs up. I think I am going to enjoy this car.
It does make all the hard times and the pain worthwile.
I contacted the old owners tonight and they were as happy as I am the "Tilly" is back on the road.

See Ya on the road somewere,
Cheers, Tony H

Hi Paul, The wider part goes to the bottom  I used to see a lot fitted upside down with the wide end to the top -  - not as effective 
Cheers, tonyh 

Hi John, I know how heartbraking it can be (FC "Special" ute page 3) - 9 coats of lacquer - blocked down after every 3 coats and then buffed to a dead flat mirror finish and after not 2 months to crazy crack from back to front, including inside the ute bed.  The paint manufacture came out and said I used the wrong thinners until I showed him 5 empty 20L drums of their thinners. He then said it was the undercoat, until I told him it was Glasurit, he shut up then and had no more answers.
After I asked him if he was "into" cars his comment was "No - they are just an A to B item to me, I don't get why you guys waste your time and money on these old cars" - he was lucky to leave still wearing his skin.
Another world wide respected paint company came out and had a look and said that they got the dryers wrong BIG time and nothing I did could have influenced the outcome.
I couldn't afford to sue so with the great help of a mate off it all came and on went Glasurit over the Glasurit undercoat and the finish off the gun is brilliant and has been for the last 18months - My painter said it will look even better when he buffs it!!!

All the best for the repairs, Cheers, tonyh 

Hi Clint,
Check out this site, they made my scuff plates and were perfect.

http://www.deanfabrication.com.au/

Cheers, TonyH.

Getting close now, only a small list to finish. Have to wait to put the rear floor in because when I was finishing up the rear wiring I checked the sender - catus - had to remove and get it rebuilt - will be ready in a bit over a week. Finished assembling the doors only to find a couple of handles the splines were u/s so found some good second hand ones and when we go to the USA I will buy new Chevy ones. Here's a couple more photos after her first bath.









Have had to send my NFC-059 number plates back as the paint was falling off - should be back in 2 weeks.
Cheers, tonyh

good idea thee, funny how time allows you to forget, some oil filters on my rebuilt 186 out to 190 in my EH 20years ago had the same drain back problem - genuine ones fixed it - I was running a 20w50 at the time and changed to 15w40 after talking to my engine builder and never had problems again.
tonyh

Hi Dave,
The heaver the oil the longer it takes to fully get around the engine. The most wear happens in the first few seconds of startup. If the noise is only on start up could be that the oil viscosity is heavy and taking either too long to get to the lifters or get warm enough to lower the viscosity - particular if the engine is new or in good low clearance condition - You said you are running 25w50 - just for a check try running a 10w40 part synthetic and see if the noise stops. The only time there is a problem with the new types of oils is if you are running very high valve spring pressures which puts big loads on the cam lifter and lobe face. Check with the engine builder but I doubt if your engine would be set up this way. I have worked in the oil industry for over fifteen years and been involved in drag racing for over thirty and the only time I ran a 25w50 was in a supercharged, large clearance, methanol big block Chevrolet producing over 1100HP in a fairly mild form and with that engine I would warm it up on stands until the oil pressure stabilised before I ran it and did over 150 passes without any bearing or engine problems. To give you some idea of the effect oil viscosity has on engine performance, years age we changed a pro stock engine on the dyno from 10w40 full synthetic to a 0w30 full synthetic with no other changes and picked up 15HP. Don't get too worried about oil pressure - the old measure was 10 lbs plus 10 per 1000 rpm so from what you stated you are pretty close. What you need is a constant supply and with the correct good oil and you won't have any problems.
cheers tonyh 

Mikey's right, most platers don't want to know - have a talk to the car clubs over there and find out who is the best plater and go and talk to them as I would imagine the problem with die cast in your conditions would be worse then here and they might have a few tricks or more willing to repair and plate them.
If that is a dud the only other suggestion might be to talk to a restoration shop to reproduce them in stainless - just a thought as there are some excellent craftsman over there that can and do make anything.
Cheers TonyH

Hey Rusty,

Rang Spectrum and spoke to Andrew - very helpfull, knew exactly what I wanted, had them in stock and is mailing them to me - no problem. I'm a happy little camper. So much for no longer available from RS.

Thanks again, TonyH

Hi Paul,

Have you found a set of spears yet? They are die cast by the way. I still have the set before I changed mine to a "Special".



I just went down the shed 9.15pm - in the cold - it's getting into winter here- not an Irish winter but cold for here - and found the spears, gave them a quick clean up. Right hand looks ok with some pitting (typical die cast) the left has quite a bit of pitting on the lower half. If you can't get any better ones they are yours if you want them - just have to work out how to get them to you.



Cheers, TonyH

Thanks everybody for your advice and help,
I took Mick's advice and took my old sender to Able Electronics today and it will be ready in 2 weeks for a better price than an exchange one.
Cheers TonyH 

Hi Jamie,
You should be proud - excellent job that most people would have given up on after stripping. It will be a credit to your dedication and craftmanship when finished.
Cheers, tonyh

Great stuff , Thanks Rusty, I'll call them tomorrow - you know I was just thinking, I have to get out more - it doesn't take much to make me happy 
Cheers, TonyH

Thanks for the offers guys , but Mick from the FC club in Brissie told they are different and I want to try to get a ute one. He also gave me Able Instruments name in Brissie, to rebuild mine if I can't source one from the Forum. Mick had them rebuild his and it works perfectly.
Cheers, tonyh

Would anyone have a nos or good fuel tank sender for my FC ute? I spent a good couple of days and was hoping to get the floor in after finishing the wiring only to find the tank sender is catus  - was ok 12 years ago when the ute came apart!!!  I will hate to go back to Rares. 
TonyH

Hi,
Can anyone tell me where I can buy the clips for the "HOLDEN" letters on the front of the bonnet of my FC? I have been to Rare Spares and been told they are no longer available - which I was told about stainless scuff strips until I found another source. I also need the clips and the glove box "Special" strip.
Cheers, TonyH 

Hi All,

Marty the stainless man's e mail is info@deanfabrication.com.au

Cheers, TonyH

Hi All,

I spoke to Marty (the Stainless man) today and he gave me his ok to publish his mobile : 0421 060 996.
I will also publish his E Mail as soon as verify it.

Cheers,
TonyH

Hi All,

I found a guy in Brisbane through StreetNeat who makes brand new brushed stainless scuff plates that not only look great but they fit !!!!
My pair for my FC ute were $200 with screws. E mail me if you want his mobile.

Cheers, TonyH

Hi all,

I found a guy in Brisbane through StreetNeat who makes brand new brushed stainless scuff plates that not only look great but they fit !!!!
My pair for my FC ute were $200 with screws. E mail me if you want his mobile.

Cheers, TonyH