After like 2 and a half years I finally got my van back on Wednesday. It was a very long and at times painful experience but the guy did end up doing a great job.
It has had a flat firewall fitted, brakes, wipers and heater installed under the dash and mini tubs. There were quite a few other things meant to be done but enough was enough and I had to get it back in my hands.
Just have to get my own shed finished and get stuck into it and get it on the road. Thanks to the wa club members that offered help in getting it back but it has worked out in the end. Cheers.   I'll keep you all posted and hopefully start getting involved with the club again.

Hey Geoff,
 I had some small scratches/imperfections in my front w/screen and back van tailgate glass.  I rang around and every glass company said that only Novus Windscreens could do anything about it.
Front glass was scratched too deep so couldn't be restored. A replacement was needed.
The rear only had slight scratches so was able to be polished/repaired by them.  It came up a treat and now looks like new installed in the frame.
Best bet would be to take it to someone to see what they think.

Good Luck

Miikael

Try "Stainless Bitz".   They advertise in Aussie Hot Rod mags.  I talked to them about some other bolts but he did say that he does have the guard bolts that you're after in stainless.    ph number is (07) 5491 76 88
or mob 0403 265 938.
Good luck'

Miikael

thanks all for the info.  that sure looks good on the BYEBYE car.   I didn't plan on having the integrated mirrors but you never know.I'll look into it on the weekend.
much appreciated

miikael

Hey everyone.  
Has anyone ever deleted their 1/4 vent window assemblies.  By this i mean getting rid of them and just having a longer 1 pc window.  
I've been thinking about it for awhile but would like some info/suggestions about this.        Would you still be able to use a flat bit of glass the whole width?   What would you be able to do for seals, bailey channel etc. What about the regulator mech. Would this still operate the window up and down properly or would it tilt it?
Any ideas and suggestions would be great.

Miikael  

Hey Nicko,
 I don't know the exact diff length but I do have the wheel track measurements.  FC is 1410mm and LH is 1430mm.  I don't know what width wheels/ offsets the LH runs but you would think the diff lengths would be fairly close. Hope this helps a little but I'm sure everyone else will add some more exact info.

miikael

Hi, the car sounds good, would you beable to send some pics to Central@bigpond.com that would be great. Cheers

Thanks for that Jas.   I'm planning on running it like you orig. intended.  I just thought I'd check with you for your thoughts.   I'll check it out but will probably go through exactly the same as you have though.

Miikael

Hey Jas.     What a treat your van has turned out to be.  It's awesome to see it develop and to end up looking as stunning as it does. Go the vans. More inspiration for myself to finish mine. Thanks
One question for you is the air filter.   In some of your earlier shots it looked like you were going to run the ducting through the l/hand inner guard. Were you planning on it sitting under the guard or through in front of the vehicle.   If you were going to do it like this could you let us know why you didn't.  This is what I'm going to do if possible.

Miikael

Thanks again
Miikael  

Hey Mark.
If you haven't already tried them, there is a place in Kewdale called Seatbelt Solutions. They had a stand at a hot rod show and I asked them the same question, whether you could get new metal buckled seatbelts. He said that he did sell them and from memory the prices weren't too bad.  Their card says that they're WA's only licensed seatbelt repairer so I'd say that the metal clipped seatbelts would be legal over here? Give them a call and let us know how you get on.
Graham Martin mob-0438 533 932 or 08 9353 3522

Miikael

Hi there all.  No works been done on the Van lately as I get all my engineering sorted out.(I got screwed about). Anyway my new engineer needs some info which none of my 3 FC manuals has. Could someone please be of assistance in the following info.
Is the max. brake horsepower 70. If so does anyone know how to convert this into kilowatts.(kw)
Max torque. (NM)
And at what RPM are the these figures achieved at.

If someone has the info it would be much appreciated.

Miikael
FCVAN

Hi all.   I've been hunting for awhile now, for a ute/van right hand bumperette bracket w/out any luck.  Can anyone help? If so please let us know.
Thanks
Miikael
FCVAN

Thanks . Parts have been sold.
Miikael

Thanks guys. Your help much appreciated.  Should have a few new photos soon. Not alot happening though as trying to figure out what to do with the suspension. This leads me onto asking a few more questions and for some advise.
I haven't had the front wheels on the car before,but on the w/end found the time to try them on.(i was so excited as it finally looked like a car) The rears I have had on for a while. As a trial I left the front coils and shocks out and disconected the diff from the leafs so I could raise/lower the front and rear of the car as desired independent of each other. I want the car as low as possible so I need to figure out what to do and how to do the job properly. I know that there is all the weight to go onto the car yet, but it was to see the ride height as if it was finished and full of weight.
My conclusions were that the rear has no problem at all with clearance all the way to the bump stops.
Front was a bit different.  First I need to get the guards rolled. Not a problem. The problem comes with the turning of the wheel. At a really low height before bump-stop bottom out the wheel fouls on the guard when turning. So I raised the car a bit so the wheel had full turning circle and a bit of clearance to the guard. Good but the suspension still had even more gap to bottom out bumpers.(pretty sure it was around 2"). Thats the reason behind asking the original post. I thought about a custom coiled spring that limited the travel or a bumper on the shock rod(chrome shaft) or do I need to get standard spindles not 2" drop?
On another note.With the CRS transmission crossmembers.  That is the lowest hanging piece on the car. Could someone with a turbo 700 in there FC with CRS chassis kit tell me how much clearance there is between the box and the transmission tunnel(ek auto) and could I shorten the drop of the trans.x-member to allow the box to sit further up/closer to the tunnel than how it would be from CRS. I have yet to trial fit motor and box but will do shortly. I don't know whether doing this would throw out pinion angles etc. and cause harm.

Sorry for so many questions and such along post but it was the only wat to explain the situation properly. All your help and  advise again muchly appreciated.
Miikael  

I'm just in the process of setting up my desired ride-height and suspension set-up.  I have a Hr front end with 2"drop spindles.  Could someone please advise of how much suspension travel the Hr front ends have.
ie. standard height springs bolted in but with car unweighted. will the suspension under weight and after hitting a bump, bottom out on the bump stop or springs or shock first. Can explain further if needed. Check out the photos section for the lowest height I think the van will have to sit.
My second question is re. Hr engine mount bolts. I don't have these. The rather large bolts that hold the rubber to the crossmember.  I assume I get Grade 8 high tensile but could someone plaese advise of the correct size/length etc
Thanks
Miikael

Sorry for no answers. The panel beaters have been flat stick and haven't finished touching up/ fixing the parts I dropped off a while back. Hopefully soon as I want to get the doors assembled and another tick next to the things to do list. I'll ask when I pick the parts up.
As to progress shots I have a film just about done so will post shots soon.  
miikael

I no longer require a detailed torana brake master cylinder and matching brake booster.
The booster is new chrome,where as the m/cylinder is powdercoated gloss black with a chrome top cover.
Both items have been rebuilt with new seals kits and the m/c has a new stainless bore fitted.
Asking $200
if you would like photos let us know

I have for sale a CRS Celica 5 sp gearbox kit to suit FC.
Inc are : Fully rebuilt Toyota Celica 5sp gearbox.never used, CRS bellhousing to red motor, Heavy duty clutch,machined flywheel,pressure plate, inspection/dust cover,2x uni.joints,hydraulic clutch line, hydraulic clutch and brackets,throw-out fork,bearings,speedo cable,bushings,Fc clutch master cylinder(polished) with new filler bottle and seal kit, all bolts and tailshaft to suit,CRS chassis -transmission crossmember and mounting rubber.
Most parts are brand new besides parts that were rebuilt such as g/box/clutch m/c and t/shaft. All parts have never been used as decided to fit up the S/C v6.
The kit cost me over $1700
Looking for $1200
miikael

Although you've got all the info you need I thought I'd add that I too have a VT front brake kit from Hoppers Stoppers.  The only difference being drop spindles.
I would highly recommend them to anyone for brake info,parts and kits as the were very helpful and were very knowledgeable.
good luck

miikael

Harko, are you a whiz with doing the photoshop cars or what?  No more imagining what it will look like, you know straight out.  Sweet

miikael