ive got it out by myself with a hardened screen.dont think id try with a laminated one.....well i did try in a hr when i was about 18.......cracked it lucky i had a spare at the time

try a smaller hole and hotter weld on the plug welds ....over the years my holes are smaller and welds way hotter.better result for me and less grinding......win win

errol can you show me where you learnt this?
the  zinc paint would burn  off,not into the weld pool i think
i welded through paint today....it doesnt like getting in the pool
well i burn it off step back as i go in the pool
prove me wrong,i like learning

good to see progress
great!
working harder than most on here..

Trouble I have Wayno is grinding through the original material, not the new bit. I probably need to make my patches bigger and cut out a larger area to get good tin. If I can get behind it I will lay beads parallel to the joint on the old stuff.


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you need to take off the weld trying not to hit original metal at all, untill right at the end.it takes lots of practice

if you are doing a rust repair it makes more sense to use 18 gauge because by the time youve ground down your weld on the butt weld you have less chance of paper thin metal
trust me ive fixed those problems for people

sorry..0.91mm not 0.92mm

tere is tolerances in sheet so it is somewhere around that .....so your not wrong

weld it properly .
you will be fine.look at rares one same thing really

yeah i wish it was like the old days 10 years ago but its hard to post pics on here.
facebook is just easy but most people on here, are on there arent they?

i dont see why it wouldnt work but i'd be putting a little weld on the bolt so they cant twist.

the 20 gauge is much easier to tip (fold) the edge over the tailgate inner frame.
So it would definitely come out better for a bloke with not much experience with panels in his own shed,
giving it a go by himself.
first time i tipped a doorskin ,it looked horrible .
hammer marks everywhere and my boss screamed at me
it would have been even worse if it was 18 gauge.
it is also quicker to get the compound curve on the skin  with the english wheel,easier to shrink and stretch the edges
thats just my thinking anyway after working for a couple hotrod/restoration shops ..
not trying to talk crap just giving my assumption of the thinner panel
regards wayne

Here's cold rolled sheet sizes in Australia.

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I ordered mine through the Rust Repair guy in Eltham, VIC.  I wanted to pick it up to save postage costs.  No way he said, they come from QLD and postage was added either to his shop in Eltham, or to my address.  I chose my place (saved me picking it up for the same price)  When it arrived I was a bit disappointed in the gauge metal used ......... just a bit thin, lighter than I was expecting.  Ask what gauge they are when comparing prices.

he would have used 20 gauge which is a normal panel thickness.alot of rust repair sections would be made from 18 gauge,which you are probably used to.why would it really matter for a tailgate skin?

i got one from retro spares recently.it is really well made.tipped flanges look great it has the right curve at the top even i was surprised
.about 200 bucks shipped

looks good mate but why are you wasting your weld through primer.?
that stuffs expensive and paint doesnt like to stick to it
its not an etch primer.
dont get me wrong im not being a nitpicker.
just heard lots of bad reports about paint falling off that stuff

good stuff keep it up!

fair price
id take em if you were in melbourne.
if glens in sydney he should jump at that deal

does anyone have a set of fe blinkers for sale.any condition considered .thanks everyone.hope someone can help.thanks

i have an idea for you to do it on the car errol.....involves a porter power.do you have one?

maybe i need to do a how to for the backyard hacks............