Hi Hewart,
Besides any or all of the other suggestions, it may be a leak somewhere out of sight - heater core/connections etc. inside the car. Check if you have any dampness under the front mat. Also if the waterpump seal has hardened, sometimes they will only leak a little when cold & the engine's not running. Like when you leave it parked for a few days or more. Another hidden leaking spot is the welsh plug at the rear of the block. It's hard to see a leak from that baby even when it leaks a lot -  and it's a fairly time consuming repair.
If you take it along to a radiator repairer, they can pressure test the whole system cold, hot, running, not running etc and find the problem for you. You can then arrange a repair yourself or find someone who doesn't charge too much.
cheers,
Leigh

Hi Nick,
I had an EJ that I fitted an accessory (after market) intermittent kit to. It gets wired into the slow speed side of the wiper switch and has a seperate on/off switch similar to a volume control to adjust the dwell. When the int. kit is switched off, the wipers just operate in slow mode and in on position they wipe according to the dwell you set.
I've seen similar kits in either Autobarn or East Coast Autospares (Melbourne) recently but are pretty ugly and would need to be mounted out of sight.
cheers,
Leigh

Ditto

Thanks Ed,
As well as gathering all the bits for my project, I'm doing the same with as much info as I can get (and remember) I hope people such as yourself don't mind me pinching the good ideas and stuff but why re-invent the wheel?
I'm sort of convinced now that I should run custom exhausts but that's a long way in the future still so if I see another good idea.......
Cheers,
Leigh

Hi Ed,
Looks like you've got a lot of the hard work out of the way (and very neatly too).
I've plans to mount the same type of engine in my new FC next year and have a question for you. Ive ignored all the "experts" who said they (the exhausts) won't fit between the chassis rails because I've already seen a few fitted that way and wanted to do the same. I don't fancy the idea of chopping a big hole in the guard skirt. Castlemaine Electrics here in Vic have head hugger extractors which appear they might do the job for me but I can't really tell from your pic if you've got extractors or the original manifolds fitted so would you be kind enough to enlighten for me please?  
Thanks,
Leigh  

Michael
In Vic you're allowed a 10% power increase before engineers certs are needed. so the 202 would be ok. Unless you're going to tow stuff a stock 186 is a better motor to have though and not as thirsty.
Cheer,
Leigh

I also ran a steel gear when I had a warmish grey in the wagon. It was purchased from Motor Improvements (in Melbourne) for $45 'bout 5 years ago. Ran as quite as

G'day Graeme,

I've been searching for a similar set-up myself for a while now & have seen a number of after market units which will fit. Unfortunately not combo's though. What I've decided on is a Smiths heater and the A/C will be late model rice burner pump, condensor & drier with a '65 Mustang evaporator/fan unit.
Reason being late Jap stuff usually has the rotary type pump which doesn't draw as much power as the swash plate type and the (pity it's ford) 'stang unit is nice & compact with drum fans, facia sort of matches the rest of the interior & will bolt staright to the bottom of dash still leaving leg room for a centre passenger if you run a bench seat.
cheers, Leigh

Nasco made a number of accessory mirrors. You can see the ute one at the Nasco area in the tech section http://www.fefcholden.org.au/techinfo/nasco/trimstyle/mirror_fm.html
I had this mirror on the wagon & if mounted to the rear of the guard is able to be adjusted from inside the car. It's fairly compact and doesn't lend itself to being knocked around by passers by.  Don't bother with one of these for the left side though as you're flat out seeing any of the mirror let alone what's behind. There is another mirror with a longer stem which is worth considering too.
Cheers,
Leigh

Geez Brad, great looking ute & looks like the hard work's mostly done.
Adding trim & trinkets shouldn't be too time consuming if you do it a bit at a time. Can't wait to check the finished article.  

Hi All,
I thought it would be better to get a few opinions other than what is printed in a brochure, so I spoke to a couple of Vic. members who've visited the Gold Coast and checked out the venue for the 2003 Nationals.
From their responses it looks like it will be an enjoyable stay. The Isle of Palms is easy to find, has security and is close to shops but is also just out of the hustle and bustle of the Gold Coast strip. It's what they class as an "up market" holiday village with stacks of things to do.
The initial hiccups with bookings was due to the place changing hands, but the new people are quite helpful and looking forward to our event. I for one can't wait to get there!  
Anyone else from interstate been there and can share there views?
Cheers,
Leigh

I didn't see the original post, but I aggree. The FE-FC movement doesn't need or want the sort of attention these ads could bring.

Had a similar problem with my wagon, so drilled right through & fitted a longer bolt with a nut inside the spare wheel well. Maintains the strength then but probably a lot different if it's a sedan.

Thanks for all the help guys.
I'll have a go at making the tool to start with + I'll make it a little bigger too thanks Ken. I don't want to cut off the original pins just yet as they are still in good nick - maybe if they get worn later.
I do have one of those Nasco broom handles but bumped it & got clobbered on the noggin so I'm keen to have the springs do their job again.
cheers

Can someone please explain how to fit FC boot springs. I have had to replace a broken one and can't work out how you get the little critter wound up and on without loosing fingers & other body parts. Is there a special tool or something?
Cheers

If you use a single grade oil you should be matching it with leaded petrol. As this is no longer available you should use a good multigrade and change it every 1,000 miles.