Hi all,

Yesterday after a little belt around Newcastle, my slave clutch cylinder (PBR P4510) physically broke from its mounting bracket, resulting in an immovable car. (I figure this was due to old age and an unnecessarily heavy clutch). Got a new Bosch replacement today, fitted it and bled the system.

Hoping all would be sweet went to start the car, and once running even with the clutch pedal fully pressed I was unable to shift into any gears, and starting the car in gear with the clutch pedal pushed did very little, the car still wanting to jump forward.

The clutch does have pressure when you push it, however it feels drastically different to what it did before all this, perhaps more spongy?? The clutch pedal also doesnt seem to fully depress to the position it should when you take your foot off.

If anyone has any ideas please let me know, its got Dad and I stumped...

Wilcey

So the rumble ended up being the 2 rear wheel bearings, after 20+ years of use I guess that's to be expected! Had the boys at Newcastle Gearbox and Diff change them out, cost me 280 bucks which I thought reasonable. (I also changed the front wheel bearings over the weekend myself as I felt like getting my hands dirty). I drove down to Sydney and back yesterday with the old man, and noticed a loud clunk when loading up the transmission and a very noticeable vibration when driving at around 50mph. Took back into Newy Gearbox and Diff this morning, they've confirmed its the rear uni joint playing up, and will change it this afternoon. Fingers crossed thats all she needs for now as I need to save up the dollars to cut more rust out!

Thanks again fellas

Thanks Harv and Rob,

The universal joints don't seem to be loose, and what I thought was the yoke also seemed pretty tight. The rear wheels dont seem to have any play either but its likely that it could be them as I doubt they've been changed in the last 20 odd years. Sounds like I'll be taking her down to a specialist this week. I'll keep you updated.

Wilcey

Morning all,

My FC ute has developed another noise, however this one is more concerning. I'm not particularly mechanically minded, but would love to have a go at fixing this myself before taking it to an expert.
It seems to be somewhere near the rear axle, when I go anywhere over about 40 MPH the car starts shaking (gets much more noticeable if I shift into Neutral and Roll at high speeds). In addition to this when turning corners (also over about 40MPH) there is a soft rumble coming from the rear that almost sounds like something rolling in the tray. I'm assuming its a bearing somewhere or the diff playing up but would love any tips or suggestions that you may have.

Thanks,

Wilcey

Ah yes that looks like a solid state job. They don't generally fail. The other posts were about original generator system sorry.

More likely you have a wiring fault. Possibly caused by the alt shitting itself. Have you checked the gen light globe to see it's not been blown like your stereo?
Taking out the battery causing loss of power to the coil also sounds like a wiring issue. Get a multimeter and check if the battery is charging. Those regs should be cheap and easy to get hold of so maybe worth swapping.
Must be someone on here knows more about autoelectrickery than me. Good luck.
Clay


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Thanks Clay, the gen light it's still fine after looking at it. I'm guessing the surge of power has buggered up a wiring connection somewhere. As the wiring on my car is very old and has had bits added and removed over the last 50 years it's hard to work out what's going on. If anyone else has any ideas please let me know!!

Thanks
James

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Would this be the regulator in question?

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Hi all, I took my FC for a drive down to Canberra yesterday, made to right through to goulburn until my alternator decided to start throwing out 19volts, thus blowing up the battery and stereo. I have bought a brand new Bosch alternator but still there is no gen light coming on the dash, and the engine immediately stops if the battery is disconnected. Any idea what could be going on?

I appreciate any help as I am currently stuck in Canberra and need to make it home asap.

Wilcey

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The old girl has never been happier, more like an FC less like a flintstone car!

Huge thanks to Harv, I couldn't have paid someone to do a better job!

Next step will be inspecting, and most likely replacing a few leaky welch plugs then on to painting the floors for some rust proofing.

Maybe she'll be show ready in a few decades 


Wilcey

Hi Harv, that sounds excellent!! Shoot me an email if youre concerned about posting your address here. james_wilce@yahoo.com.au

Although I'm no longer having the stumble under acceleration issue anymore, I am having trouble starting and keeping the engine running for the first few mins (regardless of running temp) and the engine idling too slowly and eventually stalling if i dont give the accelerator one quick pump. Idle speed doesnt seem too slow...

I guessing these are all related to that lovely carby of mine.

Ardiesse, thank you greatly for your offer... at this stage i probably wont need that throttle body unless Harv cant find one suitable in his collection. Ill let you know if in the future i need one 

Thanks,

Wilcey

I also should note that according to the kit instructions, on bxov-1 carbys the pump stem has a part that needs to be broken off to shorten the rod so it sits flush. As mine had markings of bxov-2 I left it, and found the vent valve was far too open, breaking it off, seemed to remedy the issue. The stem that was in there prior also had the part broken off... Seems strange.

Wilcey

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Hi Harv, Ive finally had a chance to have a look...
Yes, i should point out it is a 161 red motor.

On the reinforcing bar there are no markings at all that i can see. Refer to pictures... The fraction cast into the carby near the fuel inlet reads "1 3/32"..
On the throttle body It is quite hard to see the markings, but the bottom figure is BXV-2.. Im not sure what the service kit was, it was purchased from rare spares in newcastle following their advice for a 161 red motor.

It does seem the engine is running a bit rich too, as the exhaust is quite smelly and coated with black soot. She has also been dieseling/running on quite a bit when shut off. Not sure if these issues would be related or not..

Im in Stockton, Newcastle if that is anywhere near you.

Thanks,

Wilcey

G'day Wilcey,

Did you end up solving this problem?

Cheers,
Harv

Hey Harv!

Unfortunately I've had to put her away since Easter as I just haven't had the time to look at her. I'll aim to have a look by the weekend.

Thanks,

Wilcey

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I sorted the vent valve, the tip part of the metal plunger rod had to be broken off as it is not required for my model of carby. So I think that's okay now. With the fast idle cam, this is the current set up.. As you can see the idle screw doesn't even make contact..

Thanks!


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I'll have to rip it tomorrow and have another look. Thanks

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I've had some form of success, I put a kit through the carby and overhauled the entire thing, I'm certain it was a gasket somewhere, but long story short the hesitation has stopped. Now however, I think the 'vent valve' ?! Is stuck open, which I don't recall being the case before. Refer to image.
Secondly the choke being pulled on doesn't seem to affect the idle speed so the engine just stalls. So somehow I've connected the fast idle adjustment arm incorrectly... Looking at the carby guide among other things online I cant seem to work out how it goes.
Thanks again all!


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Adding to that, at the front of the carby (part closest to the front of the engine) where the accelerator pump linkage is, if i spray start ya bastard up in that area, the engine nearly stalls... Would that be that gasket leak i was thinking, or potentially something else?

Only just got a chance to have a look now. The linkage is definitely on the middle hole. It definitely seems the pump is working, there really is a decent spray of fuel coming through when i pump it. Im thinking maybe the three gaskets that connect the throttle body to the rest of the carby might be buggered also. Maybe causing a vacuum leak?

Thanks

Hi Harv,

Thanks for that, thats a brilliant guide, very detailed!! I sorted the idle mixture, but it seems the stumbling issue has returned... I had false hope!

Any other ideas?

Thanks,

Wilcey

FYI If i slowly increase the throttle it doesnt stumble at all, with moderate speed it does,and if i hit it hard it will usually backfire or stall entirely...

*backfire through the carby*

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Hi Harv,

Thanks for that, thats a brilliant guide, very detailed!! I sorted the idle mixture, but it seems the stumbling issue has returned... I had false hope!

Any other ideas?

Thanks,

Wilcey

FYI If i slowly increase the throttle it doesnt stumble at all, with moderate speed it does,and if i hit it hard it will usually backfire or stall entirely...

Hi again fellas thanks for your replies! I had a look at the accelerator pump and it seemed to be working as normal. Ended up pulling the whole carby off and noticed one of the gaskets was stuffed. Changed that over, put it back on and it seems to be good! One more question, idle mixture adjustment... Do you turn the screw in or out, and how do you find the optimal position for it. Thanks again!

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