i voted for a turbo 6pot.

the toyota 1JZGTE and elctronic 4spd auto in std trim would crack FC-FE windscreens from the torque!

great engine, non interference head, smooth pulling power and EFI to boot.

well, that's my plan anyway  

no we're not setting govt policy but encouraging someone to change the numbers on their engine puts them in the same basket as car re-birthers in the eyes of the law.

if you prang into me, kill my family and suddenly find you have no third party personal insurance because your numbers don't match (and with cars involved in deaths, they PICK THE WHOLE CAR APART), i will hunt you down myself and personally make you suffer in a dark, dark basement under my house for the rest of your waking life.

changing the crank and rods is completely legal to get more capacity, and yet your taxable engine HP remains the same. you let the govt know what you've done in the modifications list and it all gets passed.

changing engine numbers is legal too - AFTER a roadworthy inspection.

re-birthing an engine is NOT legal.

word ^^^

anyways, those SC14 ex toyota superchargers are a neat bit of gear. they're suitable for low revving, bigger engines and can spin internally up to 11,000rpm before the teflon coating melts.

SC14 means it displaces 1.4L of air per revolution, or 14,700 litres of air per minute at 10,500rpm.

a 192ci spinning to 6000rpm displaces 192ci of air every 2.5ish rpm (i forget the exact figures) so do the sums and the toyota charger will still be able to supply the air required and make +ve boost.

what worries me more is that you're thinking about a 35/75 cam on an engine with a supercharger that will boost straight from idle. think more along the lines of 25/68, 28/68, 30/70 (max). turbos are different because you can size the exhaust housing and/or manifold and/or wastegate actuator to co-incide with the change in the engine's volumetric efficiency of the lumpy cam.

remember, add just 0.3bar of boost (about 4psi) and all head flow figures go out the window - so don't get too caught up in all that.

changing engine numbers is a big no-no.

if you get caught out - worse still you have an accident, kill someone and THEN get caught out - you're talking being a  blow up doll for a big bloke named bubba with a packet of hotdogs for a neck sleeping in the bunk above you.

no thanks.

exactly ^^^

slip a 186 in there, even though it has a bigger crank and more ci, and it still says "186" on the side.

machining out the journals isn't a big issue really, it would be the only real expense in the whole project.

everything else is factory with ACL pistons, rings and pins, ARP studs, linished, polished and cryo treated rods & crank, cryo treated bearings, pistons, block and valves, rhodes lifters, crow cam and pushrods.

unsure of the head atm, but using a thin copper head gasket and sleeves for the oil and water galleries.

9.5:1 CR (ACL pistons are only available in 10.0:1 so they'll need a small dish machined in them) and about 12psi of boost (about 13.5:1 total CR)

running a trace molybdenum in the sump to harden all the bearings and bushes.

running a pair of Subaru Forester turbos on the side of it ($100 ea!!).

delco management.

aaaaaaaaand i think that's about it.

[modifying]

53 views and only one reply...?

is there anywhere i can FIND this info? i've tried googling but i get practically nothing on modifying a 186 - just manufacturer's specs a million times over.

anyone?

what BMW are the rods from? can i still put a 202 crank in a 186 block with these rods?

howdy.    

can i put a blue 202 crank and rods into a 186 block?

i think i read somewhere that the 186 had a stroke of 3in and the 202 is like 3¼in or something...? custom pistons are a must anyways...

only reason i ask is that the blue rods and crank are SO much better than red parts - and i have a formula to make a genuine 450RWHP out of a turbo'd 202 using a (prepped) blue bottom end.

main reason i ask is that i don't have the budget for special rods and billet cranks.

if anyone else has any ideas then please post (maybe another combo...).

thanks

howdy.  

can i put a blue 202 crank and rods into a 186 block?

i think i read somewhere that the 186 had a stroke of 3in and the 202 is like 3¼in or something...? custom pistons are a must anyways...

only reason i ask is that the blue rods and crank are SO much better than red parts - and i have a formula to make a genuine 450RWHP out of a turbo'd 202 using a (prepped) blue bottom end.

main reason i ask is that i don't have the budget for special rods and billet cranks.

if anyone else has any ideas then please post (maybe another combo...).

thanks

a really good mechanic for all things automotive (incl. rotaries) is John Otter.

this guy's workshop is like a surgery. incredibly meticulous and very well priced.

PM me for his mobile number, he's in Guthrie St, Osb. Park.

personally, i'd just reco the old grey with a bit more CR (maybe ACL pistons and their matching moly rings), a very mild cam (like 20/60) and a stock carb.

that way, you don't have to change anything, keep it simple and can enjoy the old girl just as she is for a long time to come...

cheers fellas. nice to know members are welcoming and not "oh great, ANOTHER newbie..." hate that attitude.

anyways, i look forward to the next few meets. i've bookmarked the WA club site and i gotta say, there are some damn fine rides here in WA!!!

hey! what and awesome site - all the national clubs linked and so much info i have NFI where to start!  

i'm from WA and will prob be attending a few meets to get a feel for the clubs etc etc - i'm looking at buying someone elses pride and joy (FC that is) already done coz i'm sick to death of building cars (i wonder how long that will last...? 6 months...?  ).

so until i have a car, i'll be browsing around, learning as much as i can and being a general pain in the behind.

so.....yeah!