eBay finishing soon cheap, in vic for anyone looking for one .. Good luck


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Looks awesome.... Are you going to do something with it? 


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If you do find something of interest that's a little far to look at, don't be worried about asking members on here that may be closer to the vehicle to look it over for you.. There's some talented and savvy members on here that know exactly what to look for.. Of course there is always a few pitfalls.. I travelled half way across the country to pick mine up, and have ended up with a solid and straight body.. Good luck


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I've used SMB car transport before, Sydney, melbourne, Brisbane.. Was about $600 from bris to Melbs. Worth a try for sure.. Cheers


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Multi meter and test lamp would be something a young boy would actually use.. Can test house hold batteries charging systems, and the lights on grandpa's trailer.. Good skills to be learnt from an early age.. Us sparkies aren't cheap these days.. Unless you have a sweet old fc, then I'm free of charge


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I wonder if the car ran out of fuel on the way home?? Siphoned by a monk with a jerry can I recon.. Haha


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Hey Graham, give me a call mate, and I'll pop over and look at it for you. Cheers mate


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Hi Hadyn, I don't have a diagram to look over, but I think the 3rd wire may be for a 'low level' warning indicator, as some of the commodore models had this feature..  Hope this helps. Cheers Matt


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Hi there KFH, although the base may be the same on the globes, the actual filament position may be incorrect to obtain the correct focal point on the reflector.. It's the old 'Angle Of infraction = the Angle of Refraction' scenario. If you measure the approximate middle of the low beam filament to the base of the globe, and compare to original. If the new globe filament length is longer you may for test purposes, be able to hold the globe in the approximate correct filament position to see if the shadow areas disappear.. Also be sure to check voltages to the back of the globe to make sure you haven't got excessive voltage drop adding to your issue. Hope this helps. Cheers Matt


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Hi guys, haven't been on here for a while, but heard about the "gold chainer" side of the argument, and feel the need to respond.
For a start, I want to build my toy to a standard that I'm happy with  , and in general I'm quite fussy. Keeping an engineer happy is really going to be both costly and a pain in the arse for me in the "nanny state" of vic where thickened red tape is the norm..
I don't smoke, rarelly drink and don't have pay-TV, so lets run the figures-
At $20/day cigs will cost $7200 per year
At $40/week beer will be $2080 per year
And pay TV will be at least $1000... So there's around $10,300 I don't spend.
I also work away from family and friends in shit conditions and accommodation that most wouldn't endure for extended periods of time.
The way I see it is that to get my hr front to pass engineering is going to cost me upwards of $2500 but will it be signed off is the question?? So a $4000 unit that will not only work correctly, but will also be certified sounds like a good option to me.. Plus I will still be $6280 in front by my calculations... Less my 2 cents of course cheers all



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Hey Josh's, there certainly are quite a few bits and pieces available for the 1uz. I have access to  a 200sx, so might pop it on the hoist for a look and measure.. Awesome brakes on a 200 also. 
Where are you located Josh? I'm in Ballarat vic. Maybe we can pool our resources, and build a hot little engine each...
Cheers Matt
0438527294


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$1200. For a complete bolt in front end there.. Nearly $800 just for stubb axles here!! It seems we have a "pineapple from the rough end" culture every where we turn here in aus!!!


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Haha. I suppose the spending thing is a 2 way street as us fellas know hey Pete.. My mrs has a wardrobe full of single use dresses and shoes that will never be worn again!!
My front end is a HR, and I have both HQ and P76 rotors in my possession to choose from. I was going to build the front end for a dummy fit to see if I will achieve the front end stance I desire. But with the cost of required parts adding up, I am starting to wonder wether I should look at a complete new assy and be done with it.. Rod-tech do a complete unit with coil overs, front mount rack and VS brakes for $4300. Still expensive, but cheaper than CRS, and a much nicer looking unit also..


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Hi all, does anyone know where I can get drop stubb axles for a HR front end that aren't going to break the bank??
I just contacted stub tech, and they want $780 for a set of 2 inch drop stubbs!! With a required parts this front end is getting expensive!!


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Thanks Pete much appreciated.. Cheers


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Can anyone tell me if mini tubs are even a worthy consideration when it comes to wider rubber selection? Or do I just have to bite the bullet and go with a new rear rail set up??

Doesn't look like I'll gain much from minis..

Cheers guys


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Will give you a bell and pop over for a look mate.. Any more elec gremlins that require my attention?


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Hi there Graeme, just back from  mt Isa, and have finished up there for now.. Just in the process of deciding on an engine/ drivetrain combo rite now.. Will be an 8, but looking at Toyota, Audi, jaguar and bmw options under 4.2liter.
How's your big girl going?


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If you remove your dash you can test the speedo itself with a battery drill, using a small drill bit with some elec tape on it.. Be careful to start at low rpm and watch for needle fluctuation. This is how we test speedo faults as auto-elecs. Repeat the same test from the drive end (again slow speed) and listen for cable slap or binding. Its not uncommon for strands of the inner cable to pick up on the outer causing large fluctuations in a whip lash type effect.. With this cable failure is imminent. And if some one else has been doing some work in the general area, it could be as simple as the angle of the cable being to acute on an area..


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Found these examples of the 1uz-fe toyota option.

Have you found any particular sites that have shiny bits for these?


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