Hiya Smithy,
                 yep, I'm using a Black 12 port head from a VK crummydore.  The reason I was asking about the need for a hole between pot 1 and 2, is that I have heard so many different stories. I even read somewhere on the net that you only have to drill 3 holes.  I guess that 3 holes may also work, but wanted to  use the most common meathod just to be sure.

I pulled the head from an old red motor lat night and did the gasket comparison thing that you suggested, and worked out that the 4 outer holes in the block,(the ones that get blocked off), don't have the material on the head to support the full hole.  I am going to drill and tap 3/8 BSPT threads and use a socket head water plug (tapered).  This will sit just slightly below the surface of the block, so that the water pressure from the block doesent even get to the gasket.

As far as the ECU goes, I will just be using the standard Bosh unit.  Maybe later I will play with a more advanced tunable unit, but for now I just want to get the conversion done with minimum hassles as I drive the car daily.  (luckily I have a borrowed car for next week).

The most difficult thing about the whole conversion will be hooking up a cable to operate my 2 Speed powerglide transmission. (you may have seen my post). 

Should have some news in a week or so, I'll let you know how it all goes.

Cheers, Damon.

Hey guys, just about to fit a black 202 EFI head to my 186 red.   Woooo-Hoooo! Cant wait!  Power and economy (I hope) 

I am about to drill the 4 water jacket holes in the block, but I have a couple of questions. Hope you guys can help?

1. The  4 new holes are pretty well documented in previous posts but I am wondering why is there no hole required between Cylinder 1 and cylinder 2.   My black head has 5 cast holes in it. Why do I drill only 4 holes in the block?

2. Do I really need to block off the 4 original 'red motor' holes?  I have read sammy's old holden work guide, and it says that "some people do, and some don't".  What have you guys done? Pros and cons?

Can anybody help please?   

Cheers, Damon.

Thanks for your thoughts FC 427.  Im familier with the early trimatics (had one in an HG).  These are in fact a bit diferent to the Powerglide, but I guess that It could be done, (anything's possible).

Would still love to hear from anybody that may have done this.

Cheers, Damon.

hey guys,
             am running a red 186 with a 2 speed powerglide and would love to convert the 9 port head to a 12 port EFI.  The swap looks straight forward until you consider the mechanical kickdown.

Has anyone ever run a 2 speed powerglide behind an EFI setup?

What type of kickdown linkage was used?

(By the way, i don't want to lose the 2 speed Tanny, It rocks)!

Hoping someone can help?

Please....... Damon.
 

Yeah,... Stupid question or what!

I guess I mean, how illegal is it?
Or how easily hidden is it!!

What is involved in the set up?

Is it propane gas or flammable liquid?

Would like to see a pic of the system and wiring etc'.

Cheers, Damon.


 

Cat, That looks great man!

Tell me, what type of system is it?
I dont know too much about flame systems but would like to know more.

Is it legal?

Cheers, Damon.

Guys,
         there are a couple of ways to do it, but the simplest way and the best (in my opinion) is to check the clearances with the engine running and then stop the engine to make adjustments, (you cant make adjustments to a rocker that is moving anyway).
You have to have a good "feel" but you will know when it is correct. It is quite obvious if your clearance is not enough because it will be difficult to push the feeler in. If it is too loose the feeler gauge will slide too easily. You need to feel a "slight drag" on the feeler when the engine is running which indicates that the clearance is "size for size" on the gauge.  You wont be adjusting the rockers by much each time and you may have to adjust each one a few times before you get it right, but with a bit of effort (and pain in the lower back) you will get it right.  If your clearances are way out of adjustment you will be surprised at how much better the car will run.  Its well worth spending a bit of time to get it right.

Word of warning: dont reduce the clearances beond what the book states (.008 + .012) otherwise the exhast valve may spend too much time off its seat. If this happens, then the exhaust gasses can burn out your valves pretty quickly, ($$$).

Hope this helps.
Damon.

Thanks for the response Ed, for a while there I didn't think anybody was listening!

I think I will use the P40 filler over the top of the POR15 as the instructions state. If I believe the attached info that comes with the product, it states that the chemists have formulated the two products to bond together chemically rather than mechanically.  Another thing to think about is that there will be more chance of trapping moisture underneath the filler if it goes on after the tie coat, (moisture is our enemy).

I have found a good article on fillers, primers etc' if any body wants to read it. It is written by a pretty cluey guy, definatley worth a read for anybody considering their own bodywork.   http://www.roadsters.com/filler/

Wish me luck!!
Damon.

Hi guys,
            I am about to start using 'POR 15' rust inhibiting paint, filler and tie coat primer on my sill panels but was hoping that I could get some more info from members that have used it. (My paint supplier doesn't fill me with much confidence when I ask him any techo questions).

Craig A and Ed have commented on how great the stuff is (thanks guys), but I was hoping that you might be able to clarify a few details...

The instructions that came with the POR15 paint says that you can use P38 and P40 fillers (bog) over the top of POR15, however when I read the instructions for P38 and P40 it says that it should be applied to clean bare metal.

I understand that diferent situations may call for different methods,  but was hoping that you guys may be able to describe the methods that you have used?

POR15, bog, POR15, then tiecoat... or, Bog , POR15, then tiecoat...?  :-/

I am trying to do everything correctly and am not relying on bog alone for rust repairs. I have replaced the larger rust holes with fresh metal and used 70/30 lead for small rust holes, then body filed to ensure that it is all nice and straight, but will need to use a little bog to fill a few small dents and ripples.

I would appreciate any suggestions or help that anybody has to offer as I want to do it once (the correct way).  

Cheers, Damon.  

Stinky,
            been there done that, but no reply.
Ah well, I guess she will check her emails some time soon.
Thanks, Damon.

Yeah, Ive sent PMs but no reply.
I guess I just have to wait.
Damon.

Does anybody have NOS outer sill panels (L/H or R/H) stashed away anywhere?
I know that there was a R/H one advertised a while back.  Just wondering if there are any left.
I hear that the Rare Spares Items (if available) are more trouble than they are worth.

Oh, and I am also looking for a good set of hens teeth!!

Damon.    

Hey guys,
               does anybody know whether Julie still has the two tone green FC sedan for sale?

Regards, Damon.

Andy,
           your method sounds good (but messy)!
What is Tectol 506? Is that a trade name? what consistancy is the mixture when mixed with fishoil?
sounds interesting
Regards, Damon.

Wanted: FE or FC sedan shell.

Must be in resonable condition with not too much rust.
Unfinished projects preffered.
Not scared of floor rust as long as the sills, bottom of pillars and doglegs are reasonable. (I can weld)
Needed for red motor conversion so originality is not important. Dont need doors or guards ect' as I have everything to go except a good shell.

I am in Melbourne but will consider anything whithin a few of hours from Melbourne.

Willing to pay $$ for a good one.
Please call 0418 810 693 if you have what I am looking for. Thanks Damon. :-/

Hi Julie,
I am in the market for an unmodified FC.
I am in Melbourne (Glen Iris) and would love to have a look at the car if it is still available.
Please email me or better still, call me on 0418 810 693.
Thanks, Damon.

Tony,
        I am going through the same issues with my FC project at the moment and have done a bit of research on metal treatments.
There is a product on the market called "POR 15".
It is basically a complete restoration refinishing system.
Their main product of interest is their rust preventitive paint which will form a "tough almost ceramic like finish that wont crack or chip". The bonus is that it can be applied to rusty surfaces.
Although the surface preperation has to be adhered to quite strictly I believe that it looks like the best product on the market that I have come across. Check it out on WWW.ppc.au.com
I havent used it yet but it really looks like a fantastic product (I have some on order).
Mabe someone else reading this can share more info? Good luck with your project.
Damon.

Hey Tony,
Is the FB still around?
I'm just kicking tyres but wouldnt mind seeing a pic if you have one.

Cheers, Damon.

Hey guys,
Im still looking for a Bosch heater. :-/
So far I have located one here in Melbourne and one down in Tas, but both are missing the diecast demister plate on the back that the demister pipes attach to.

Just wondering if anybody out there has a complete heater for sale or possibly just this elusive little plate!?  

Any leads would be appreciated.
Thanks Damon.

Hey guys, Im looking for a Bosch heater for my project FC.  Does anyone have one in the Melbourne area?

I would preffer the Bosch type rather than the Warmeride type as I already have one in my other FC that I am very happy with, plus I think that the demister is better in the Bosch type.

I may even be interested in parts if anyone out there has a good core.

Can anyone help? :-/

Thanks Damon.