Not sure if this helps anyone, but when I did my motor, I put an FJ head (shaved 40thou) on an EJ block and ended up with 7.5:1.

Cheers
Jason

Hi Rod,

I have this set up on my car and did not use the spacers due to the fact that the manifold was polished and it looked a bit funny. Mine seams to run fine without them.

cheers
Jason

Hey John, this topic has been covered before, but I never miss an oportunity to crap on about my motor  .

These are the mods I did to my 138.

The bottom end was fully balanced, 40thou oversize pistons fitted, the head was decked 40 thou, ported, polished and port matched to manifolds. The valves are s/s red motor and the valve springs are 350 chev.
The cam is a mild one from clive cams, i can get the specs for you if you like.

I'm running twin carbs (stromberg) and extractors and a 2 1/4" exhaust.

As far as performance goes, the car has 100 rwhp, it will idle smoothly, doesn't get hot and hasn't lost too much torque so the 3 speed works well with this combo.

Hope this info helps you out

Cheers
Jason

Check the sender first, trust me, it's worth it before you go and spend big bucks fixing something that isn't broke.  

GO THE GREY.........

My motor runs the new style one from rares and it's been good so far, looks a lot neater than the old one.

Dave,

I would recomend the steel timing gears, they are much stronger than the fibre gear and they are quieter than the alloy sets. The steel gears in my car are not really noticable unless you are revving it out while accelerating. A mate of mine has a set of alloy gears in his red motor and you can't hear yourself think while the car is running, the sound was pretty cool for the first 15 minutes and then it just gets annoying.

cheers
Jay

Cheers guys

I was just wondering if you guys had any advice for me in regards to fitting alloys to my EK. The wheels that i'm buying have a machined flat face on the inside but the brake drum has raised sections on it and the new wheel wont sit flat. The original wheels are shaped so that the raised sections on the brake drum sit in recesses in the wheel.  Are there brake drums from another model that have a flat face or do I have to machine a 3mm thick spacer?
Cheers
Jason

Thats a single speed EK unit.  

Torquefc, are you going to port and polish the head, if so I would get the lip on the combustion chamber machined off, apparently it makes a big difference to gas flow.

cheers
jay

That looks fantastic, can't wait to see a picture of it in the bay.

Cheers
Jay

I have red motor valves in mine and it runs on unleaded.
I have 80 thou off my head and the comp is 8.2:1. Just remember when you do this you will have to make some slight mods to the water pump and side cover to get them to fit.

Jay

Thats something that most people miss Julius, good call.

I had everything in my motor balanced, crank, pistons, rods etc, i can't believe how smooth it runs.

Another mod that I hade done was lightening the flywheel, also make sure you get your pressure plate/clutch balanced as well.

Porting the head is a very worthwhile exercise, the machinist who did mine spent 8 hours taking the intake runner seperators out to open the intake right up and polishing them smooth.

Jay

The cam I mentioned above would be a good match.

If you want specific specs, send me a PM and I'll mail them back to you.

Jay

Hi guys, Just thought I'd let you know that I have just been through this very same ordeal, when rebuilding my grey I wanted a big cam with a nice lumpy idol as well but was talked out of it by the cam grinder mentioned above. (clive cams). I was told that if you go for a lumpy style cam in the grey motors they will just use a lot more fuel and loose all of their torque making them a pig to drive on the street. I chose a grind recomended by clive for a street use grey motor, it doesn't really have a lumpy idol but the motor runs like a swiss clock, I'm very glad I took his advice.

Even with the street cam i have, there is a noticable drop in torque, not enough to make it a pain to drive, but on those slow 2nd gear take offs you have to give it a fair bit more gas and a bit more clutch to get her up and going again.

I can post up the cam grind specs if you like, but if you use clive cams, just ask for a grey motor grind number 82.

The other mods to my motor are

ported and polished head
red motor valves
350 chev valve springs
80 thou head mill
40 thou over bore
twin strommies
extractors
lightened clutch
steel timing gear
port matched inlet and exhaust

i can't tell you guys how well it runs, a lot of guys gave me sh#t for spending so much time and effort on a grey but the end result is fantastic.

Go the greys

Jason

Nickers, sorry about the delayed reply, The quality was good but I thought the price was a bit steep, considering I bought one for my 5l commodore for under $100 and its twice the size.

J

cool, I'll take a picture this weekend and get it to you on monday.

Jason

Edward,
Check out the photos section of the web page, burnsy has posted some pics of my engine bay with the setup you have described. I had to modify the accelerator lever to miss the manifold but apart from that it's all stock. I had to change the return spring for a stiffer one as well due to the stock spring not shutting the throttle properly.

If you need some closer pics, let me know and I'll take some this weekend.

Hope this helps

Jason

If anyone is wanting this type of work done in Perth, I would recomend carbuettor exchange in freo (9335 1769) They did an excelent job on my strommies, there are a few pics in the photo section of this site if you want to take a look.

Cheers
Jason