new link
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281644439396?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

to buy from vicroads is $585 (custom mix plate)
starting bid is already $100 cheaper at $485

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281633271821?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
no reserve so 1 bid can/will buy this item
free reg post australia wide
sold the car interstate so they never needed the plates,

Deff looks the goods
And should make a good clean 1-120hp no problem
Did you do a bottom end stud girdles and windage tray

Hate to see what would happen when large companies do sponser
Could you image the news

It is a shame through

must have some major issues, as it was for sale only 1 -2 month ago with a complete different set of pics,
so either same seller new photos or 3rd time its changed hands this year

Old thread is understatement
It just over 10 years old
Some of us wernt even born then. Lol

You know what funny about this
The shop I work in and build tankers still uses whitworth bolt, as they have for the last 50years,
Asked why, and was told they worked for last 50years so why change

Very clean I must say
Looks much nicer then the standard fuel cell sitting in the floor

Fitting a tank in the trunk behind the seat, comes under different guidelines
Not 100% but I think the rear wall behind the seat has to be solid and not open like it is stanard

Not to mention, backseat anyone

Another thing people forget is the diameter of the tyre
Std ford/commodore run 25.5" the newer ve 26.5
Where as the fc/fe is 23.5
 

On a side note
What's legal today maynot be tomorrow.
And I dought you'll ever get a 305/ anything road legal
An educated guess would be 285/30 would  be the biggest legal
So an 18 wheel would make that the same as a std commodore wheel

You could pull out the tank and have it cleaned and resion coated inside
Or fit a vr/vs commodore tank

That will solve the tank issue
As for the fuel line you might need to polly shoot it
http://www.stauff.com/fileadmin/Downloads/PDF/Fluid_Connectors/Stauff_Clean_Brochure.pdf
This is the tool I use
You might be able to hire one from a hire shop, or hydraulic shop
 

bump

still for sale
make an offer

Did you not read the link above?
Auto surplus

I've sold rollers and shells on carsales
Just post the main pic as a complete pic,
But post other pics of dismantled

You may also try
just cars
Just parts
Parts peddler
There is trading post (for old school) but don't no many to sell on there anymore

New pumps are avaible
And so are rebuild parts
I thought about turning the bush around so as not to block off but allow a bit more oil to sit in rocker shaft

But then thought
What's better a worn rocker
Or jammed and worn lifter/cam

Never thought of the dizzy as when mine use to do it, it use to spin the cap and brake the plastic locator inside the cap that help it in the correct position

Side note, it may be a good excuse for a complete rebuild, if that's what u want
If you are 226@50 108lc that's pretty close to xu1 specs
2800-6000rpm, you should be running  9.5-10.5:1 comp, extractors/exhaust, triple 175's/465 or slimar, head work, re graphed dizzy/elect, 3.36 or 3.55 diff

What's the lob centre or the cam
The lower the number the less manifold vac
Anything below 110 will require a highstall or manual
With a high idle say 11-1400rpm
I'm a big fan of 107-108lc in a hot six, but I also run a vac pump when that low

Yes
But got all my leads through carsales (well worth the $60)
Gumtree all it have me was scam emails and tyre kickers with >500 to spend and looking at +20k cars
I had it on eBay as well and some calls said they saw it there but wouldn't spend that sort of $$$ site unseen

The biggest thing I can say is keep the prices consistent
Don't change them bassed on the fees or cost involved that just something you will need to eat of tell people they need to pay
Ie like paypal welcome but all fee to be payed by buyer,
Ring around a few transport companies and get freight charges to there they main dep, in a few states
And don't charge for del to transports company, if you can't del to them price it for your house pickup,
For some resion this deters buyers "idd del for $100 or $70+ fuel"
If you need to charge don't offer it, let them ask or arrange it in the price

Post some pics up in the sale section and get a fell for thing
But what we think it's worth and the real world $$$ is too different things
When you see subframes at a bargain basement price of $1999

That's a had question
As I sold mine complete no rwc 13day reg left for 19k within 3weeks of advertising it at 19k
Had it 21k for 2 weeks and only 2 calls

Where as I saw car there at same time same price (18-25) now asking 10-15 for the same cars

I think you'll find if it the right person and right car you'll get good money

But other then that, how much rust and how complete will determine the price
Deff not in the hundreds unless your buying rust with a side of parts
But deff 2-8k idd say bassed on the word project being used and no discretion