With great regrets, I’m listing my car for sale. Due to health issues, I can’t no longer finish my project FC, I’ve battled on for a fair while trying to find the strength to finish the car. Unfortunately every time I spend time working on it, I spend the next week recovering.
All the hard work is done, rust has been repaired and the outer sills re done with nos sills (which still needed a bit of reworking. In recent times I’ve been refitting the bolt ons inside the cabin and checking that all the parts are still there.
The engine is a J block and has been rebuilt. It’s now a 3&3/16” bore with worked head, triple stormies and stainless extractors, sports muffler and full length 2” stainless pipe.
Comes with new trim and head liner, 10 ltrs of Granite Grey & 8ltrs of India Ivory acrylic paint and full rare spares rubber kit.
Just needs a couple of body tweaks and final fit up and adjustments and it will be ready for paint.
Also has rechromed front and rear bars and good grill. The brakes have been replaced with  EJ/EH drums, new shoes,wheel cylinders, new brake& clutch master & clutch slave cylinder and new hoses.
All work can be viewed in the members projects under My FC rebuild by fcwrangler.
LOOKING FOR $18,000 ono
All inquiries through this forum or call me on 0419 632 935

HEADERS ARE SOLD!!!!!!

Set of cast headers of unknown origins (could be Klienig) came off an engine that had twin carbs and a Klienig alloy rocker cover. Have gone with polished stainless extractors and full stainless system.
Has new studs and nuts and has been ceramic coated.
Asking $400 ono, pick up from southwest Sydney or can post at buyers expense.
Reply by message or call me on 0419632935
Jim

The mechanism that the handle attaches to has a spring inside to return the handle to it’s normal position.
By the sounds of it, that just broke. You will indeed have to remove the handles and the trim to get to it. I have a few spare in Sydney if you need.

Sorry Vern, no luck, the spare distributor I have is missing the rotor button.

Hi Vern, just saw your post, I should have one with the car, I’ll check on Tuesday and let you know.
Jim

Hi mate, I’ve got a pair of the lower front door moulds but no luck with the wagon moulds. However I do have a pair of sedan rear moulds that need some dent repairs and the rear door rear moulds. Any stainless shops would be able to weld them together and polish them.

Hey mate, left a comment on your parts wanted add, I should have a pair, I’ll check tomorrow when I go and work on mine.
Jim

Hi Laszlo, I should have a spare pair, I’ll check tomorrow when I go up to work on mine and let you know.
Jim

I’m still chipping away trying to whittle down the list of things to be done. If anyone knows where I can get a set of dual header pipes could you let me know otherwise it’ll be extractors instead. Been spending my time lately cleaning, painting and fitting the pedal box and the new inner firewall cover as well as the vent lever assembly. The idea is test fitting as much as possible to make sure it all fits properly and I have still got everything I took off. Next job is to fit the master cylinders and power booster so I can bend up the new lines. As usual my back doesn’t want to play ball, so it’s a matter of doing what I can when I can. I’ve come this far so I won’t stop til it’s done, luckily I’ve got a good mate with a large shed and it’s not in his way and I help him out when he needs a hand on his projects.

Thanks guy’s, I’m just plodding along when the back let’s me, no time frame anymore, it’ll be finished when it’s finished. The light at the end of the tunnel is getting bigger though, once the bodywork is completed I can finish doing the external bits on the engine, headers, exhaust etc. and get it running as well as replacing so called “good” diff with an actual good diff.
The one thing I’m glad I didn’t do was have tires fitted to the new rims when I purchased them as they would be no good by the time the car’s back on the road.

After 18 months of on again off again work on the car, I’ve finally got the outer sills replaced. The problems with the right sill were nothing compared with the left side. After trying a few times to match up the sill with the body I found it to be 1/4” long???. In the end I trimmed the “B” pillar section and sat the sill back on the car, this showed the rear of the sill matched up with the rear wheel well and the front was 1/4” forward of the lower”A” pillar. So began the task of cutting down and reshaping. Only then to find the shape from the top to bottom of the inner sill was also out.
After more than a few adjectives and a ratchet strap and vies grips, the sill finally capitulated to a point where it could be welded into place. With a bit more manipulation I got it to a point were I could fit the doors and guard with a reasonable gap. Now to do the fine tuning the fitment and gaps, and then do the same on the other side, thankfully the sill has been done so hopefully it won’t be as bad. Having problems getting into imgur so photo to follow.

Oops, that should be one belt anchor  per plate.

Good progress Rob, a word of warning though. If you are fitting a centre seat belt you will need to have separate plates as the rules now state one bolt per plate. I had to change mine on the tunnel front and rear.
Jim

I’m looking for a pair of RH & LH front door hinges for my sedan if anybody has some spares.
Thanks, Jim

The FB/ EK glass is about 1/4” lower in height and will not fit the FE/FC. Check Rare Spares, they list different rear rubbers for both, some people will try and tell you they are the same??? But they’re wrong!!!

Thanks Ken, send me your details and via pm and I’ll do a transfer. I’ll pm my details.
Regards
Jim

Thanks guys, if you have one can you let me know how much posted to Gilead NSW 2560.
Thanks Jim

Have had a couple of good days on the car, the rh sill is all but finished. Had to do a little massaging to get it to fit well, the top is welded in and I’ll do the bottom next week as I ran out of time. At least the the doors now have a gap and don’t overlap. The combination of the new sills and a little rectification on the new door skins has done the trick, once the right side is done it’s time to start again and tackle the left side.
The joys of NOS parts that I have learnt are rejects from the factory lines, if they don’t fit put it aside and get another one. Then the rejected ones were sold off as spare parts.

I’m looking for the brass junction block that bolts onto the subframe, mine has been taken by that Chinese parts thief. If anyone has a spare they can let go, I would appreciate it.
Thanks Jim