I read recently on the FE-FC Enthusiast Facebook page that a HQ window regulator spring is a suitable replacement, if you can't find an original one. Haven't tried it, but I daresay they're pretty easy to find. An image search shows a spring that looks similar (although the outer hook looks quite long - perhaps that doesn't matter once it's tensioned?)

Anyway, that's free advice, worth at least what you paid for it

If you're after an adjustable boot pin kit, PM me, I have some at the moment.

cheers
RET

Thanks for the advice RET - good to know!
I have already bought the adjustable boot pins (from you most probably) a couple of years ago on this forum.
Cheers, Joe

Hi
I'm after a driver's side boot spring
Mine has shattered into three pieces whilst sitting quietly in the shed by itself
Only noticed when I opened the boot and it wouldn't stay up
Hoping someone can help as I find it hard holding the boot lid with one hand whilst trying to load the esky with the other
Cheers
Joe

Freight is the problem with living in the country areas, as many of the members would testify.
Fatboy has put me onto a bloke who may be able to help me. I'll let you know how it goes.
Cheers
Joe

I'm after a cylinder head to suit my 132 FC Grey.

Bare head or a fully reconditioned one - I don't care, as long as it's servicable.
I would need you to arrange freight to Mildura, Vic 3500.

Cheers
Joe

Latest update:-

A blown headgasket complete with cracked head!
A water pump that doesn't pump when at low RPM OR when hot! Not sure why, but they are the conclusions of rigorous testing on the pump.

So... now I am after a good head to suit my 132 Grey Motor, one that can be transported out to Mildura Vic 3500 - any takers?

Cheers all, and thanks for the help.

Thanks Harv,
I will call in to the place that recored my radiator this Monday and see what they can deduce. I'll pass on your advice and see if they have the equipment to do all those tests.

Cheers
Joe

Harv...

As I stated, my pump doesn't pump out of the top hose at idle, so you may have a point there. Bit expensive to swap out at over $100 just to eliminate the pump, unfortunately, but a bit cheaper than Ken's suggestion of a head gasket/cracked head.   Might have to bite the bullet and buy a "spare".

a) I bought and installed a 71ºC thermostat which I have in at the moment. I took the last one out when it boiled and ran home with no thermostat - no difference.
b) Both tested and work OK.
c) See "a" above
d) I installed new radiator hoses and the bottom one has a wire coil inside to prevent collapse.
e) New fan belt fitted and double checked for tension
f) Brand new (recored) heavy duty radiator in it now - perfectly clean and smells of fresh paint - no difference
g) Checked cap for recovery version, which it is not. Bought new one when it first boiled and got yet another new one with recored radiator - still no difference.

Thanks for your help Harv, it is appreciated.
Cheers
Joe

==================================================
Ken (mcl1959)...
The water pump has a cast type impellor, but I notice the cutouts/fins in it are deeper on the fan side of the pump as opposed to the shallow ones on the engine side. I would question whether the impellor was correctly fitted to the pump except for the fact it worked well for nine months, and I have only just had this overheating problem in the last two weeks.

As for the head gasket or cracked head, well maybe, but as you say it usually happens after overheating but not before. I'll have to do a compression test and maybe talk to a mechanic to see if I can test the head theory before I pull it off. Then again I may as well change the gasket anyway. I can't go on like this.

Thanks for your help Ken. All ideas are taken on board and at the very least they help me feel I am not missing something obvious.
Cheers
Joe

I hope this is in the right area of the forum.
I am having overheating problems recently, which seem to come on all of a sudden. The old girl would only run hot on a long run on a hot day, but never boil. Just recently she decided to boil on a relatively short run at only 80km/h. (The ambient tepmerature was 43 degrees, but not unusual for this old FC.) The first half of this trip the FC stayed around 2/3's up the gauge, but quickly rose to boiling for the last 50kms of the trip. It was almost like something had broken or failed.

I waited (in a pub) while it cooled down and refilled the radiator and set off home, but it boiled again within 10kms. Thought it might be heat soak from previous overheating so I parked at a friend's place and retrived it in the morning. Got very hot on the run home doing only 60km/h. (Much cooler this morning at only 33º)
I pulled out the thermostat and noticed the water pump would only pump into the radiator at about 1500rpm and above?! Is this normal? I would have thought the water should be constantly flowing at idle, even if not at a great rate. I had put a new rare Spares water pump on it about 9 months ago.

I have a new thermostat and radiator hoses. Since the boiling incident I got my radiator recored with a heavy duty core, with new radiator cap. I've tried with the heater on and off, but she still gets hot very quickly. Took it for a run at midday today, (outside temp is 40º so I thought it would test it out nicely) - it boiled again! I know it might seem hot for those who live in the colder climates of Sydney etc, but this is normal for my FC, which until recently had no problems with warm weather.

I have flushed the system with a hose connected to the heater outlet to try and eliminate any air pockets. The block was reverse flushed professionally when I put the new water pump on, and I run coolant in it all the time.

I keep coming back to the water pump, because although it is relatively new, it doesn't seem to have much flow. I removed it to make sure the shaft hadn't let go of the impellor, and everything looked OK and as I would expect. The impellor doesn't seem to have much bite on the "Blades" if you could call them that. But that is the way it was cast, it hasn't been eaten away or anything.

Additionally I have checked the timing and that seems OK.
I don't think I have a blown head gasket, but I can't rule that out without removing the head. No bubbles in the water, water in the oil, etc
My FC is running a stock 132 grey motor.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

Just been to the cinema and watched a few nice looking FC's in the new movie "Sapphires". Worth the admission price alone. (Movie was OK too)

Sorted!
Thanks to all the people who suggested/offered help.
I ended up going with e-go.com.au  Not the cheapest but seemed the easiest for the situation.
Thanks again, this forum is invaluable to me.
Splod

Have you tried e-go.com.au ? I had an LPG tank shipped from Melbourne to Adelaide for a reasonable price and it was quite weighty.

eg-com.au seems to be the best way to proceed. Someone else also suggested them and I am currently in the process of trying to organise it with them. I'll let you know how it goes.
Thank you for you input.
Cheers
Splod

Hi
I'm in need of help! I bought a HR crossmember on ebay with the intention of having a mate bring it back in his ute. (It's in Wollongong - I'm in Mildura ,NW Vic) However he came back early (without it) and now I am having trouble getting the parts to a depot for transport to Mildura. I tried SmartSend, but they want to use a forklift or tail lift truck to load it at the delivery address which adds about $150 to the already slightly expensive freight ($135). It is the crossmember (clean) with the control arms and discs detached, so it could break into three parcels. 
Is there anyone who could pick it up from the seller (nice guy by the way) and maybe help arrange freight to Mildura for me? I am willing to pay for your assistance in the matter. It gets a bit hard to do much when you're 1100kms away and I feel pretty useless at this end. The seller said I can leave it at his place for a few weeks if need be. Any offers or advice?
Cheers
Splod

Mine arrived Friday (Very prompt delivery)
They look good and fit well. Brilliant piece of workmanship

Highly recommended to anyone who is considering adding demister functionality to their FC
Thanks again Ed

Cheers
Splod

Hi Splod,
No, You need to use the matching bellhousing,clutch,pressure plate and a Dellow or similar bracket and a FE- EK slave cylinder and a tailshaft, shifter and speedo cable to suit.
ACE  

Thanks ACE. That was what I needed to know.

Hi
I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the all aussie 3 speed from a HQ/HJ would bolt up to a 186 from a HR with HR bell housing? Do I need to change the bell housing to a later model? It seems ideal to use the HR bellhousing due to the clutch slave cylinder already being in situ rather than use the HQ/HJ and a Dell conversion for the slave.
Thanks
Splod

Interesting piece of equipment. Anyone know more about how it works?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320844077340?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I'd be interested in the hardtop lid if someone wants to start their own home based manufacturing business.

Downloaded my copy today and am very impressed. Well worth the money and a great reference to have at your disposal. Can't recommend it high enough.