Hey
With all the pain i had to go through, i would have just bought a kit to bolt in. Any way acquired the whole underdash set up etc from a Hq being wrecked        ( taking note of the set up before removal) but used a pump from an 86 mitsubishi Colt - fabricated my own brackets - new dryer gas it up- worked a treat- however restricted air flow meant that i had to go for a bigger radiator "Vr Commodore with twin thermo's to keep the Grey girl cool- having trouble attaching a foto.

OK
i don't know  if you are running drums or disks however on my FC when i installed a VH 40 i had to remove the valve in the master cylinder as the valve keeps some pressure in the line "Hence" the pressure is increased whilst  going through the booster.
Might pay to have a look if there is one in there.

Just scratching my head i am sure you have to pull a valve or something out of the slave cylinder- other wise the brakes will stay on- i can't remember off hand butgive Rare spares acall and they should tell you wjat to pullout.
Cheers

Trev
You can tell your mate that he's in luck, wouldn't you know it they stuffed up my number in the Just cars Mag, so it could still be available in January.
Must be some sort of Witch Doctor??

cheers

and another

Trev
Just wandering if u received those fotos?
Here is another just in case.

Sent the foto's via e-mail to trev.
Cheers
Vin

Trev, call me! o417 488 702  

and the interior........

This one is in Sydney.
202 warm motor, oz 4 speed, 12 months Rego.
Asking $8500.
Plz leave reply if interested, can e-mail more foto's.
Cheers

Hey
The run on was or as far as i know was that the engine was running a bit too hot. Changed the thermostat, flushed the system touch wood all is well for now.
Thanks guys for your help
Cheers
Vin

Seb
Did not even think of that! thanks will check out prior to ripping the head off.
Cheers
Vin

Thanks Craig,
As i have tried spraying water down the carby to try and clean up the cylinder, slight improvement must be on the right track, will try running cooler plugs in the last attempt to try resolve the problem as i am planning to take the head offfor a better clean and thorough cleaning. Hope my effort will not be in vain.
Will Advise
Vin

Hey
Checked the pulley, OK. Could it be that one of the valves be stuck or even a carbon build up inside the cylinder?
Cheers

Thanx guys, will check out asap, will get back to ya!!!

Guys
I have bought an FC ute with a 202 motor, problem is that when ignition is turned off, the motor seams to splutter rattle and keep running for a few seconds untill it eventually dies with a last groul splutter and cough.
I have tried timing it, but refuses to run on the rikter scale . Is running currently way below top dead center.

Any thoughts on the matter?

Vin

Thanks guys
i ended up modifying the sump and pickup as boof head me found out that the EH sump could not be put on with the motor in.Funny that i got the motor from an exact conversion as i was doing and i have now found that me engine sits that little closer towards the front. Not a day too soon if i had to take the sump off again- what a bitch of a job.

Hey
Try this - start the car and disconnect the +ve terminal from the battery. If the car turns off you have a charging problem. If it stays on then it's an open circuit between the Battery and alternator bad earth etc and check the battery for voltage.
Don,t forget to check that the motor too is properly earthed.

Hey
I used a motor from a Vr commodore, fitted straight up to the old backing plate only had to extend the bracket holding the wiper arms ( to clear the firewall suporting ribs). They work a treat and even hooked them up to stop at the bottom of the winscreen.The switch was after market with a knob from an ek single speed.

Just a note Wd 40 is not a long term lubricant, it is like a degreaser, penetrant etc. and you will find the noise will return- try lithium grease as it comes in a can and easy to use.