I am on the 2nd resto of my FE station sedan. All going well but have had a brain freeze on rear window divider & quarter glass removal. Anyone thinking straight tonight. Looking forward to new paint on monday.

Hi Scott, PM sent to Sherrif so hope to get a look see at the bonnet. Freshening up for next years nationals. Thanks for the reply.  Cheers Moe`t

Hi Ash, I have a few brake drums in Toowoomba. However I think you'd find a few closer to home as they are relatively available. I'm happy to part with 2 for 25 gummy bears plus post. Your call. Moe`t

Hi Scott,  Do you still have the FE bonnet for sale?  Moe`t

Thanks HSV - 001,  Sounds like there is a bit of a consensus on this. Will look at head gasket or a crack in head ......  Sounds like we need to do a little work on the rocket.  Thanks Moe`t

Folks
        I have a little oil in radiator water but no water in my oil. 138 grey motor FE wagon. Ideas on what the problem could be?  Moe`t

Thanks for posting such great photos Alex. Looks like you really know what you're doing with a camera. Well done. Cheers Moe`t

Thanks gents, Carb is standard single stromberg, Valve clearance was set as per cam man's advice. Maybe I'm running a little lean ..... tuned carb as per book & have set spark gap a little wider for electronic ignition. However the timing is stock per book. So maybe try a few degrees BTDC (before Top Dead Centre ?? - Does this mean advanced??)   Would this all be sorted by a Dyno tune guy? Do they measure and set the best settings for power?
Over to the brains trust again.

Hi brains trust. My FE wagon has a FB grey motor rebored to 60 thou, a 20-60 cam and extractors. It doesn't seem to pull as well as it did and a bit sluggish with the 1958 caravan in tow. Top end is light on as well. I recently timed it using timing light and ball bearing in fly wheel mark and adjusted the idle to around 500 rpm as per book. It still sits on 100k for hours but won't pull much more than 115-120kph now. I have electronic ignition as well. A bloke told me to advance the timing a bit. Any tips?? I run 95 octane fuel. Moe`t

Checked every thing and cleared some crud from needle & seat. Ran a bit rough after starting and then eventually ran out of fuel. Started with fresh fuel and no dramas since.....2,000 odd k's. I reckon I just got a bad dose of fuel. So i might approach it differently next time. Still can't see why i had so much trouble with two in line filters. One is now removed. Cheers Moe`t

The second gearbox had a crack in the case and was suspected of being in a bingle and thereofre a bent shaft, hence jumping out of top gear. So they went back to my original gearbox and put a set of bearings etc through it. Total cost $650 for them to remove the box again, rekit the 1st box and fit. Has been going well for 3,000k's now. So I'm happy with that. Twas a bit of a stuff around but that's the chance you take with 2nd hand gear/parts I guess.   Cheers Moe`t

Hi Brains trust,  I drive my FE Station Sedan 60k's, stop and then drive 300m and she stops, then goes if I choke it by hand and away we go. Happens every now and then. Can't get fuel up to the carby so we've changed the petrol pump and blew the lines with air, check needle & seat. I suspect the problem is a blockage in the bottom of the tank. I could hear plenty of gurglingh when we blew air backwards in lines to tank.     Question: Is there a strainer at the bottom of my fuel tank that is likely blocked or is there other areas i've missed?    If so what's the suggested remedy gents?  One of the threads was to put coat hanger wire in a drill to clear the nylon strainer.......at least I think that was what it meant

Over to you guys.  Cheers Moe`t

 

I had mine reproduced in 3mm s/s laser cut. They turned out fine. A bit hard to get the exact scale right. I think it was $70 ea. They look pretty close to the mark at a distance. Best I could get and I'm happy with the result.  Cheers Moe`t

My gearbox cooked recently owing to a leaking rear seal. So I obtained a 2nd hand box. It jumps out of 3rd and synchro in 3rd is sus. Anyone had a rebuild recently and any idea of the cost??   Moe`t

New Wheel cylinders were installed 3 years ago when the FE wagon was restored. I thought I was doing the right thing by getting newies from our Brakeland shop. I had a leaking wheel cylinder recently. So my mechanic (25 years straight at Endeavour rallies) tells me that the new wheel cylinders are made in India and need to be S/S sleeved after 3 years because that is what they are good for. Probably ok after that. Unfortunately the old cylinders were thrown out after they were removed. So he recommends that you S/S sleeve your oldies instead.   Cheers Moe`t

Well we bought one of those new shiny cars for the one I love. So the next drama is how are we going to tow the old van (FE blinking brake lights set up) with the new car. One sparky said he'd think about it but would probably have to add a blinker light...?
My local guy looked at my van and looked at the new rice burner and said we can just swap a few wires in the van lights and add one wire back to the trailer plug. He got the van right but couldn't get the signals working. Turns out the local rice burner dealer had wired our trailer lights wrong from new.....the car was 2 weeks old at this time. The sparky after a bit of testing rectified the problem and low and behold I plug either car and the van lights work like a charm. For less than $200 my dramas were fixed. Cheers Moe`t

Update; The FE tows the caravan fine. Air shocks are good with no modifications. However the left rear axle slipped back on the leaf spring during my last trip because the axle 'saddle' rubbers were paper thin. They and shackle rubbers were next on my list to replace. So i'll book in next week and get the shackle rubbers replaced. Drum brakes are limited for towing but seem to cope provided they are maintained, I give myself enough space and drive responsibly. I put FE light system (blinking brake lights for indicators) on the van so no mods required. All looks and works well.
Cheers Moe`t

PM sent Darren. Cheers Moe`t

Lads, I found that spray oils were not the go. I used oil and diesel mix and the noise has vanished.....Thanks for your offerings. Living and learning. Moe`t

I used an epoxy primer which can handle most top coats......Is there any reason you are using acrylic top coat instead of 2 pack?   We used epoxy primer and then 2 pack top coat. The primer then 2 top coats if it's a straight colour. This epoxy primer was used immediately after sandblasting to protect. There is a product called Oxydene that panel beaters use...unsure of the spelling. 

The repairs and any filler can be used over the top. I used the advice of my local auto paint shop. I'm told that 2 pack will last longer than acrylic and no buffing required at the end.
We applied the 2 pack in a shed ourselves and got a good job....not a show car though. My only regret is using a white primer which shows at any chips. Anyway that was 2 years ago and the paint job still looks shiny and good.
Best o' luck.....Moe`t