Wasn't it the late FC's that had independent indicators?

Hi Keith,
Consider it sold if hasn't been already.
Regards
Mark.

Ladies and Gents,

The aim of this post is to collect firm orders for a new, better grey motor cylinder head gasket.

The link below shows some pretty detailed work by one of the FE/FC Holden forum members: http://forum.fefcholden.club/index.php?topic=26399.0
The upshot of it is that in 1963 GMH issued a Service Note AN 1627, which gives a revised head gasket, part number 7424869.  The new head gasket results in an increased flow of cooler water to the rear cylinders and valve seats, and is designed for use on vehicles operated at prolonged high speed or under conditions where severe operating temperatures are experienced. The “normal” grey motor gasket has 38 holes punched in it, in addition to the 6 large cylinder bore holes. The 7424869 gasket has 12 of the 38 small holes left blank (unpunched) to change the water flow through the cylinder head. The gasket is used in conjunction with some simple enlarging of the rear water jacket holes in cylinder head and cylinder block. To upgrade your standard grey motor cooling, you remove the cylinder head, do some very simple drilling (very achievable in a back yard), and use the new gasket.

Note that the standard gaskets sold over the counter by Repco, SuperCheap etc are not the better-cooling 7424869. To the best of my knowledge, the 7424869 gasket is not available, other than a few NOS survivors. The work done on the FE/FC forum shows that the 7424869 gasket changes really work.

My intention is to get a run of the 7424869 gaskets made (I want one anyway for my meth-monster grey motor project  ). AA Gaskets in Melbourne is willing to make the gaskets up, though we would have to pay for tooling, as well as cover a minimum run of 50 gaskets. The indicative cost of the gaskets will be $70, plus postage. As a sense check, a standard head gasket from eBay is $35-60, depending on quality (the AA Gasket type quality is around the $60 mark).

I'm going to act as the focal point for an order, similar to what I did with the hydramatic service kits. I'll raise a separate post on each of the FX/FJ, FE/FC, FB/EK and EJ/EH forums, calling for nominations on who wants a gasket. I'm not doing FaceBook (me and FaceBook don't talk), but happy if anyone wants to spruik a link to the forums. I'll let the nominations run for two weeks (end of January), and hope we get 50 nominations. I assume some blokes will want two or three, and I'll probably take 5-10 (some for me, and some for the inevitable latecomers  ). Provided we get 50, I'll place the order then manage the distribution. Not sure how I'll post these out without them getting bent... need some advice here please. If someone can scan me up a good copy of the GMH Service Bulletin, I'll include a print of that too in each parcel.

If you would like one (or more) of the 7424869 gaskets, please post here, and PM me your name and address. I’m going to take this as a firm commitment on your part to pay $70 plus postage.  I’ll collect up the nominations, and see how we go by the end of January.

Cheers,
Harv

I'd like 2 please Harv if its not to late.

Cheers
Mark

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I am wanting to fit electronic ignition and have been looking at the early holden parts kit. Most of what I've read on here is about the petronix kit. Is there a difference in the two? Is one better than the other? There's about $40 difference between them.

This is a job I'll be tackling soon. The rubbers on my car are glued in with a brown glue. It looks and feels like Stag. Not hard cured. What are thoughts on using Stag.

Cheers
Mark

Found this one in a front yard in the weather.

FC/225-10438M
28i-633
253-2047
256-2102

Reckons he'll do it up one day. He won't sell it. I don't think he has the drive, ability or resources unfortunately.

Sounds good. Mine uses a 1 7/8" solid square and had been bent at the ends with a 3 1/2" drop. I'll send some photos if I can figure out how.

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Hi Pete,
Stepped live axles have been around since Adam was a boy. The purpose is to lower the centre of gravity of the trailer and align that centre more with the chassis of the tow vehicle. Fitting a gusset will control the twisting force in one direction but as brakes are applied the top of the wheels will pull towards each other applying a force that is trying to bend the axle beam assisted by "3 inches a leverage". This is the second direction of force. I speak from experience when I say a broken axle when you are miles from nowhere ( remembering recent  sojourns to Tassie and Perth) is a major problem and disruptive to harmony between travelling companions. If all you intend to do in the near future is short trips close to home then don't mess with what you've got. But if there's a chance you might decide to tow it to Qld then save yourself the inevitable hassle, inconvenience and expense and replace it with a solid axle engineered for the job.


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Hi Pete,
Don't know about other states but hollow axles aren't allowed in qld. That aside, because it is 60 year's old and black, not galvanised is a good reason. You don't know what its like inside.
It will have loads applied in 2 directions with brakes, twisting and bending. And road conditions have a good chance of bending it as well.

Mark

Hi Pete,

If that's a hollow axle I'd replace it.

Mark

Rounded top corners of doors definately makes them off a ute.

This one would be better buying

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-GREY-MOTOR-FACTORY-MARINE-ENGINE-SUIT-BOAT-HISTORICAL-/271485566891?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f35ccffab

I wish him all the luck in the world. He'll need it. I'm thinking he may have put to many zero's on the end.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/132-Maybe-138-Holden-Grey-Motor-/251525352114?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a90144ab2

Mark

Re load capacity of winch, Rule of thumb, use dead weight of that which you want to winch and double it.
It's one of those things that it pays to spend money for quality even if you don't use it very often.

Mark

The back of my mirror is the body colour. Car has never been painted. Different to dash and roof. Plated April 57 FE

Hi John,

Will your gauge mount take a 2 5/8 inch gauge ?

If so I'd like a 2 gauge metal one and a set of these seals please. I'm not going to the nationals. After that would be fine.

Regards,

Mark

Thanks fella's,

You have flicked the switch and a dim glow has erupted.
A simple solution to a simple problem.

Mark

Hey Guys,

Had the head done. He's used red valves and springs and he's also enlarged and polished the ports for better flow. If I use the standard inlet manifold the rings for the inlet ports don't have an edge in port of the head to stop against. If I fit the manifold without the rings or even with them then the result will be disturbed or turbulent airflow into the chamber. I was going to fit extractors so if I enlarge the ports on the standard inlet manifold I don't have any way of aligning the manifold on the head as there are no bolts. The same goes for an aftermarket inlet manifold. It seems pointless to enlarge and polish the inlet manifold ports to improve airflow if I have to use a standard exhaust manifold. Or am I over thinking this.

Considering the work that some on this forum do I cant be the first to have this decision to make. 

Any suggestions.

Mark

Thanks Trevor,
That good, all I need thanks.

Cheers

Mark

Thanks Trevor,

I'm a "monkey see monkey" do type so pics would be great thanks. Have you done any suspension mods ? I don't like air shocks. Springs are for carrying the load, shocks are for controlling the springs not for carrying the load. I've had air bags before and they worked well on bitumen but holed easily on dirt and gravel. I've looked at a type of over ride spring that uses a coil. Has anyone used them ?

Cheers

Mark