Rusty,

While not being completely certain, I'm pretty sure the rear brarks will be next to useless unboosted. Also pretty sure that the rear slaves will need to be replaced to suit the disk front end. So I'd suggest you boost both and somebody will know what rear slaves you will need to fit.

Best regards,

Steve.

Depends. If you have all the machining done by someone who knows what they are doing (can recommend Peter Orger if your in Vic) supplied with all the bits you are going to use its like Meccano with a torque wrench. The issues tend to occur when poor quality machining and poor parts matching cause overly tight/loose tolerances which then affect engine performance. I think a Red is an easier build than a Grey.

Go on do it you know you want to!

From memory a cup shaped one that the nut shaped bearing bit with the grease nipple on it turns into. The seal itself sits on the bit that bolts to the car body pointing downward. Looks like it just keeps the grease in and the dirt out. Its been a while so maybe I'm not correct.

Jnr has has her L plates so its time for some serious safety belts. Strangely the old lap belts which have been fine for me must now be replaced on order by senior management.

1.0 Is there anybody who manufactures a replacement for the old lap and sash style belts updated to inertia reel?

2.0 I imagine that there a good few who have performed this modification any suggestions?

3.0 If it turns up that I need to use second hand stuff is there anybody who will refurbish it to roadworthy standard.

Best regards,

Steve.

Rare drag link repair kit $54.50 new idler arm $34.50 in 2002 (took me till 2005 to fit it). No club discount, stupid of me, don't make the same mistake. $35.00 for powder coating and 4 hours of no TV and Internet....  

Rebuilding the drag link will add some crispness to the steering. I got someone to turn the wheel from side to side on the ute and noticed that I had about 1/2 inch of slack which needed to taken up in a sloppy drag link. Tightening the ball and cup set up helped but in the end I rebuilt it with new bits from rares.

At 33 there are a lot of bits to wear....

Nice.

If it's all too rusted and Ken's touch does not work my suggestion is hack saw through the pins carefully on either side of the spring (they are soft so its not too difficult, helps if the rubbers are knackered). You can then drill out the large heads or if you have one get the air chisel on to them.

If you are using the rare spares replacement be careful to knock them back in place and do not try to tighten them in with the nut> The metal is soft and the thread strips. Another $30.00 down in my case.

Regards,

Steve.

Thanks, despite being a member for eight years, I've never been to a meeting this will motivate me to go to the next one.

Best regards,

Steve.

and small

Dave,

Here is a rough snap of the standard balancer for standard engine (skinny) and a large modified balancer for a modified engine (fat plus). The standard balancer may have another pulley attached to it.

Best regards,

Steve.

Having managed to cross thread one of the lines on my existing Brake junction does anybody have a spare one out there to sell?

Best regards,

Steve.

Highly likely. I have had this problem before. Resolved it with a new master. The seals were worn and there was some damage to the wall. So if you held your foot down the system gradually lost pressure. If you have not done the slaves for a while it might pay to check those as well at this point.

Best regards,

Steve.

Much as I would love to build one (I have about three sets of plans from the Internet). The car work is going to keep me busy for about the next 15 years, the FC alone will get me a Phd in rust removal, three time over. Also there are some others I'd like to add to the fleet...

I like some of the vans on that site, I'd have thought that the survival rate would be shocking for 50 and 60's Vans...

Best regards,

Steve.

Thanks that is the place I'm looking for...

There used to be a place in Queensland which made tear drop trailers. Does and body know if they still exist or of anyone in Australia that makes tear drops trailers. Much as I'd like to build one the 6 month resto on the FC has blown out to 7 years and I stll have a HG and an XD waiting for restoration. Might be time to buy......

Best regards,

Steve.

Peter Orger in Bayswater. He did my 132 a while back totally including balance $2400.00. I've used him for other stuff, not cheap but good...

Best regards,

Steve.

Could I have one as well.

Best regrards,

Steve.

Think the steel one will be less grainy and do the bell ring thing. Sadly this means that you have to have them side by side. I'm sure there is some sort of P/N that would define this, I hope some one knows what it is .....

Best regards,

Steve.

Hmm...

In this case i'd take the side plates off so you can see when each cylinder is on the tdc of the compression stroke and adjust the tappets until push rods are tight plus one half turn. You will need the side plates of so you can see that the cam is not trying to raise one of the valves. My method is to spin the push rod with your fingers till you feel some tension then do half a turn.

When your setting up number one you should be able to statically set the timing and adjust it later with a timing light to perfection. The FE/FC manual outlines a good procedure for this.

This should set things up so it will run silently, once its running and hot re-torque the head and adjust the tappets again.

No doubt there is a better method out there....

Best regards,

Steve