sounds a "little" (a lot!) rich to me!!

that doesn't sound like anything extravagant there at all - the only item i see bumping the cost up if the cost of the head porting - how far have you gone...?

are the extractors "off the shelf" or custom built? custom pipes generally cost $250 per pot + exhaust.

are the carbies new or supplied by you and rebuilt?

those three items alone could run into $3000.

i have a very very low klm, early model (higher CR) 1UZFE and 4spd auto for sale.

comes with all accessories (incl. front yoke, alternator and PS pump) and loom ready for your computer of choice.

can get you a tiptronic controller for the gearbox for a very low price - which also has the ability to lock up the torque convertor at cruise to provide better fuel economy.

i'm in WA and have access to VERY VERY cheap freight - basically $1 per kilo.

asking $1500 ono complete.

PM me, call me (0423 972 359) or email me.

cheers.

pity you didn't grab the grille and bumper while you were there!

that AP5 looks in good condition too - i'd put that on a back of a truck quick smart.

but 253 cars...? amazing...

try and blitz some dog salmon and pour that down the rails.

the high mercury content should keep the rust away for a while...

if you want the paint smooth out and spread evenly, try putting the button in some boiling water for a few minutes before applying the paint.

works really well when painting plastic all one colour, but in your case with 3 different colours it might make them run together.

maybe give it a shot...?

yeah thin oil is the go - it also doesn't attract as much crud so when it does dry out, you aren't left with somewhere for water to pool and hold and transform iron into red powder.

try mixing fish oil and sewing machine oil if you want a little more weight 0- but i personally wouldn't go any heavier than this.

yep, radiator places are the go.

and a fuel tank shouldn't rust on the inside at all.

just coat the weld with some killrust primer and a coat of gloss oil based paint and it'll never rust again.

edit: i've just read up about drilling and tapping some water jackets in the block and plugging them off with grub screws to make the 12port head fit.

awesome - looks like i'm on my way.

thanks to everyone for their help. it's so nice to be helped when you're a newbie and not sh1tcanned because you have a few genuine questions.

next round is on me...

. The 186 I am making for my wagon has a 12 port blue head and you should be able to fit your head to your block, I was told just make sure I use a cooper gasket.

Sarge

see, that's what i was told too re: the copper head gasket.

and if the YT heads are worth that much then i think i'll just run with that. saves having to spend more money then - i can get similar performance for a whole lotta nuthin'!

what did you have to modifiy to get the blue head to fit the red block? are all blue heads 12 port? i thought only black heads were 12 port...

lol yeah a carton...

i'll fill in my location too.

one of my friends uses greyhound bus freight to move things across the country - cost him $15 for a bench seat to go from QLD to melbourne, $30 to get a whole 4cyl engine block (lotus escort - worth $$$) from darwin to QLD and $30 to get another head to me here in WA.

much cheaper and far more reliable that aus post.

i'm stuffing around with it coz it was practically free and has less than 500ks on it.

i guess i'll just have to wait and see what block it's for when it arrives.

earlee - the bottom end is built and owes me money so i want to use it. no V8s for this baby - there's just something way cooler about keeping it a sixpot. a V8 just requires SO MUCH more work.

with the high CR pistons and smaller combustion chamber it should be a perfect combo for gas.

and RET - actually i DO have another head in same condition but with a few more kays on it. but that one cost me money and needs a bit of a clean up. no welds or anything though, just a bit of a clean. prob a good weekend just double chacking everything, but i can't be arsed and when i was offered this head for a carton i thought "bewdy! that saved a weekends work"

still, for a couple (or more) of the folding greenies i'd probably let it go.

so for final clarification, YT USED to make them for red, blue and black, now only make them for blue and black (which fit a red block with a bit of pissing about) and the old-er stock could be any of the three.

there's hope for my precious spare time yet.

minimum under ADRs is 15mm - so i'd be bending a bit more...

i mean, i've had exhausts about 5mm away from the firewall and while it's awesome on long winter drives, in summer it can be a bit of a pain for your passenger.

never had an issue with rubbing though - forward/rear movement isn't the bit you need to worry about...!

okay i'm way confused now.

so the water galleries aren't the same for a red and a blue - and the YT head is designed for a blue or black - but you have one on a red working fine...?

are they only out by a few mm's or something?



and yeah Ed, eventually i'll chasing more HP but it'll be with turbos so any flow figures will go straight out the window anyway

yes it answers my question - thanks very much for that Mark  

but now i have to chase down a blue block and swap everything over!

shouldn't be hard, just a pain the proverbial to have to rebuild the whole thing again and have the water galleries and oil galleries studded again.

i guess i can kiss the next month of spare time goodbye!

i'm glad my pistons are a +60thou size though, coz i doubt there's any chance of finding a virgin block anymore!

i'm basically weighing up if it's worth doing a red head to almost race spec or using this yellaterra. i guess i've already got the head though, and it's only a block swap (short engine is still on the engine stand) so i should prob run with that.

cheers for your help.  

sorry - my bad.  

blue crank and rods in a red block  - you know when you're trying to explain something and you know what you mean but it's so easy to overlook something in the explanation because it's so obvious to you...?

ah...yeah...

anyways, what are the heads worth new? are they good or should i just build a decent red head instead?

and yeah, it's for my FC station sedan.

huh? sorry, but i have no idea what they are worth and it was given to me for the cost of a carton of VB.

are you saying that is too much to pay?

the car is a daily and on gas and is a stock-but-rebuilt trimatic auto.

after some research last night i decided on the wade 1166a cam which is approx a 20/60 but with 400thou+ of lift - almost double valve spring territory.

i have a blue bottom end - linished, polished and cryo treated with ARP studs. i'm using ACL HQ racing pistons with moly rings and trimetal and a VK elec dizzy.

water and oil galleries in the block have been sleeved proud of the block and the head galleries recessed to take said sleeves so i can use a very thin copper head gasket without any bypass worries. also has an ARP head stud kit on it too.

i have a pair of turbos sitting in the shed i might stick on it too, but with the 10.0:1 CR i think water injection might be the go with only low boost - just to improve swirl.

so yes, that is the car as it stands - minus a head.

i have a stage 2 yella terra head for a 202 that i picked up for a song and was wondering a few things

a) what are they worth new?
b) anyone had any experience with them? are they good?
c) what's a good cam profile to match? i was thinking a 25/65.

cheers.

newbie here - hi all!

sorry to skew slightly off topic here, and i certainly don't mean to offend - but smaller triple SUs on a six really do have their pitfalls compared to larger twin SUs on a six.

the main reason i say this is due to the tuneability of SUs. they're a kind of "set and forget" carb, but do have their problems especially when not set up correctly for unequal intake pulses - and believe me, it is quite difficult to get triples set up correctly on a sixpot.

for example, the intake pulses on a triple carb setup would be as follows with the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4

carb 1 (front most carb) pulse-miss-miss-miss-pulse-miss-pulse
carb 2 (centre carb) miss-miss-pulse-miss-miss-pulse-miss
carb 3 (firewall carb) miss-pulse-miss-pulse-miss-miss-miss

now to the twin carb setup with the same firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4

carb 1 (front carb) pulse-miss-pulse-miss-pulse-miss
carb 2 (rear carb) miss-pulse-miss-pulse-miss-pulse

you can see that airflow is more constant thru the twin SUs (as will be fuel), therefore in incoming airspeed is held constant (or linear-ly rising under acceleration) there is more torque AND power to be had with twins.

using triples, the airspeed drops away under all those misses in a row and then the first cylinder to draw in on each carb (2,3/4 and 5) has to work a little harder than normal to bring airspeed back up which will affect performance.

sorry to be pedantic, but i've often wondered what holden were thinking when they decided to use triple SUs over twin SUs.

this is obviously only the go on heads with indivual inlet ports.