2x Stock EJ 13 inch rims fitted with 185/70/13 tyres with 80% tread Ebay Item #140222269202
2x stock EJ bare rims Ebay Item #140222270057

These are the same dimensions and stud pattern as FE/FC rims.

Pickup from Canberra.

Cheers,
Dave

I think it is for a red 6. That was the description when I bought it. The part number stamped on top of the fuel bowl reads A6 and below it -still on the raised flat bit, 4 23.

It has 51 drill main jets in each barrel as specified for 186S motors. Not sure of the Venturi size but could check if this would seal it. How can I tell the difference between a red 6 WW Stromberg and a later one for the 253? It certainly fitted my red 6 WW stromberg manifold (which sold for $86).

Cheers,
Dave

Ebay Item #140222546713

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140222546713&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=004

Cheers,
Dave

To suit FE, FC and early FB grey motors. Eight plugs in individual boxes inside larger box that held ten. A nice original touch for your grey. Listed on Ebay

Ebay Item #140220731637

or

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140220731637&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=004

Cheers,

Dave

Who's Charles McCarron? Aren't the local (memorial?) 'baths' named after him?

Beautiful town, Canowindra. A fitting home for the 4th oldest Holden.

Dave

Alex,

Nice pics. You've got me stumped with the non-holden coupes though. The green one is a Daimler SP250, yes? I've got no idea about the silver and maroon ones though. They look pretty exotic though.

Cheers,

Dave

PS particularly enjoyed the EJs.

So Dr Terry, does that mean HR rims will distort EH drums too? And are the wider ROH rims safe on FC and EH drums or the same as the HR ones?

Cheers,

Dave

If you're rebuilding drag links you might want to consider fitting one from an HR. A lot fewer parts to wear and it bolts straight up (you'll need the HR pitman arm too). No need to change front end or even the idler arm from standard. Rare Spares does a rebuilt exchange HR drag link for about $110 from memory. Of course a worn one won't be any better than a good older style one.

Dave

Hi Dr Terry,

It looks like I have the right dizzy. There are really only the pink and green wires but another wire has been joined to the green one for some reason. So where do these 2 wires attach?

Thanks,

Dave

Thanks for that Stinky, I'm feeling a lot more optimistic now!

At least I managed to get my motor going with a points distributor. Unfortunately there was no spark to no4 cylinder. After scratching my head for a while I discovered the distributor shaft was bent and the rotor was actually pushing the cap around in a kind of belly dance action when running. I guess the points gap varied a bit too.

Hopefully the swap to an electronic distributor will go smoothly. As it's my daily driver car, I'm starting to miss it a bit after a week off the road. My wife is starting to ask if a red motor will really be that much better than the grey that has served me perfectly well for the last 6 years. I'm beginning to wonder myself.

Cheers,

Dave

Hi all,

just trying to do fit an electronic (blue motor) distrib  myself. It has 3 wires whereas the old one had only 1 (low tension). Where do the other 2 hook up??

Cheers,

Dave

I don't think Clive is a car person. I seem to remember he went in one of the celebrity races at the Australian F1 GP in about 1990 when they drove Pulsar Vector SSSs (remember the boxy ones with the viscous coupling LSDs) and he was actually a non-driver at the time and had to learn from scratch.

Don't know why I remember such incidental rubbish when I get the names of my own children mixed up? Luckily I haven't called my wife by the wrong name yet.

Good to see such a fine car on TV anyway (the FE I mean). Nice colour(?) too.

Dave

Rod,

Maybe not quite as good but I bet it would be a lot better than nothing.

If you live in a cold climate I reckon the advantage in cold driveability would far outweigh the value of the extra power you'd get from extractors once the motor had warmed up. My experience with an unheated manifold in Canberra suggests it's about 10ks before the motor will run properly. You'll actually have more power without extractors over the first 10ks in stop-start driving. Handy with work being 10.1ks from home.

After rigging up a system to suck warm air from over the extractors it only takes 2 ks to run properly and it's probably not as good as a heated manifold.

Cheers,

Dave

You can actually get twin carb manifolds that will bolt to the exhaust manifold to take advantage of the heating valve etc. I just sold mine (not sent yet- don't worry buyer, you know who you are). As I'm in Canberra I often thought that a heated inlet and standard exhaust would be a better bet than extractors and unheated inlet but never got there.

If you don't have an inlet manifold like the one described you'll have to block the hole at the top of the standard exhaust manifold.

Cheers,

Dave

Thanks Ken- I'll probably go with the Torana discs then. I've only got 6 (or maybe 7) inch torana rims with 185s on them at the moment so probably shouldn't rub (in an EJ also). I'm only putting in a 149 but you never know what crazy idea I'll hatch in future.

Not sure what a mastervac booster is. I'm planning to convert to a dual circuit master cylinder (HQ type) using a CRS adaptor. They told me with this setup I only need to boost the front brakes and can leave the rears unboosted with the standard wheel cylinders. They assured me the HQ master doesn't have a proportioning valve and this should work fine. Booster is (remote) VH40. Does this sound right?

Regards,

Dave

De-nuded grey motor still available ($700). All accessories gone.

Still in car so can hear running. Will be removed in 2 weeks.

Cheers,

Dave

I'm buying a HR front end for my car and have the choice of HR or Torana discs. I was wondering what are the advantages or disadvantages of each.

Cheers,

Dave

Alfio,

your number didn't seem to work (too embarrassed to try a third time-the guy sounded surly enough after 2 attempts). Pls check your PM.

Cheers,

Dave

After months of agonizing I've decided to replace my perfectly good grey motor with a red. To help finance the swap I'm offering the motor and some accessories for sale. Details are as following:

J series grey motor $700.
I had this motor professionally rebuilt 5 years ago at a cost of over $2000 . 40 thou oversize pistons and hardened valve seats fitted, 30,000 miles since rebuild. Always fitted with external oil filter, oil changed every 3 months, filter cartridge every 6. Coolant always used in cooling system and recovery system fitted.
**Price is for complete motor with standard rocker cover, exhaust manifold, air cleaner and excluding the external oil filter.

Wade 104 grind cam and refaced lifters $100
Never fitted to motor, standard journal sizes. This is a good street cam offering a good spread of power.

Speco alloy rocker cover $40

AC external oil filter $60
Good hoses etc- replaced 5 years ago

Motovator extractors $80
7 years old, bought new by me

Twin Stromberg manifold and one carby $50
Warnerford brand. Bolts up to standard exhaust manifold if a heated inlet manifold is important to you. Would have to be cleaned up and needs studs fitted. You can have a second (matching) carby if you buy the motor too!

Motor and accesories (except cam and twin stromberg manifold) currently fitted to my daily driver EJ sedan (see pic) so you can come and hear it running or even have a drive.

I'm located in Canberra. Send PM if interested

Cheers,

Dave

Rod,

if you're running extractors the inlet manifold won't get as warm as the original with the standard exhaust manifold bolted to it and you shouldn't need the insulators.

You may need to modify the accelerator linkage a bit though because the carby will sit slightly lower. On my car (EJ) this caused part of the linkage to hit the extractors before I'd reached full throttle. All I needed to do was shorten the vertical link bit and it was sorted.

Cheers,

Dave