Hi John,
I would like to buy a a 2 hole and 3 hole gauge mount in stainless steel please.
Cost to Postcode 6166 Munster WA please?
If you have more available I can advise Club Members if they are interested and perhaps do one bulk postage.

Regards Sebastiano
FE-FC HoldenCar Club of WA

Can someone copy and paste my above post re: gasket, on the FB-EK Forum please?
The site is not responding.

Regards Seb

It's been more than a few years since I've replaced a head gasket, which leads me into the next question.
Will the gasket be marked front and back or top and bottom?
The reason I ask is that the last time I did a grey head gasket, it was interchangeable.
The raised bead around the cylinder bore holes on the gasket are joined between the cylinders as shown in the new gasket and was face up when installed from memory, This was to prevent a blown gasket between combustion chambers/cylinders.
Can anyone confirm this?
The two gaskets that are shown for comparison, only shows the one side with the single raised bead around each cylinder bore hole.
The gasket imprint on the cylinder head shown shows the raised bead join between the combustion chamber, indicating the way the new gasket is shown in the photo is the correct way up when installed.

Regards Seb

Hi John,
Is your radiator cap matched up to your temperature sender unit in the cylinder head?
There is a brown and black coloured sender unit for grey motors and they need to be matched up to the correct size radiator cap.

Regards Seb.

I have a 1988 Nissan Pintara sedan with mag wheels, 4 wheel disc brakes and Borgwarner diff.
Ideal diff and disc brake conversion for early model Holdens.
Car is advertised on Gumtree for $300.
$200 for Forum Members.
Must take whole car.
Located Munster WA.
Phone calls only or PM me please, 0419 813 086. Will not respond to text messages.

Kind regards Seb

Hi Fred,
Speak to a radiator specialist for the CFM rating required.
It's also important to invest in a radiator shroud as to maximise cooling.
Air flow takes the path of least resistance so simply attaching a fan only to the radiator will not give you optimized cooling even though many have been fitted this way with little or no overheating issues with all sort of engine configurations.
The correct rated radiator pressure cap should also be used for the engine so the thermostat opens at its rated specification and engine runs at correct operating temperature .
Your radiator should be tested to see if it can handle the higher pressure.
Hope this helps.

Kind regards
Seb   

Booster hose should be plumbed at centre of manifold below carby.

Regards Seb

Hi Brett,
My FC ute is a 1959 model in Ascot Grey (7773). Mine has been repainted so not sure if the shade of colour is correct.
Previous Ascot Greys (7771) came out in 1956 by my research.

Regards Seb

Hi Ken,
I'm just wondering how you came about with the build month my utes were manufactured?
I haven't come across this type of information.

Regards Seb

Hi Neil,
Body is solid, straight and was repainted 20 yrs ago but is cracked showing primer and metal in some areas.
Interior has been redone but base of seat needs redoing.
HR disc front end and suspension with Hydra vac booster and original FC rear end. Stops ok without locking up.
Engine has new rings and bearings, head has s/s valves and recond and also has a new clutch and water pump.
Has wide steelies and is great to drive. Its a bit firm and lower than my other ute.
Still need to put it on the hoist for a check over.
I drove 3 1/2 hours to check this ute and spent 2 hours looking at it and 4 hours drive back home. Totally stuffed as I only slept 4 hours prior.
Wasn't going back to pick it up so I paid them to tow it to my door.
I was restricted to viewing the under side so the lady owners partner put it up on ramps on the back of his tow truck so I could see it better.
Lady had it 20 yrs, sold it in 2001 then bought it back in 2003.
It's only been back on the road for the last year as its been in storage for at least 7 yrs.
Can't wait to work on it and drive it.

Regards Seb

Nissan Pintara/Skyline diff will fit.
I've heard this is a popular conversion as you can also use the front disc brakes as well. Only thing is you will have 4 wheel studs instead of 5 stud.

Regards Seb

Hi Graham,
Is the hinge secured to the pillar?
If it is then at a guess the hinge has broken.

Regards Seb

PS You can always ring that 13 hundred number, I'm on shift this weekend.

Hi Ken,
Just bought another FC ute (Ascot Grey) which was made further down the assembly line to my current Blue FC ute.

ID Tag reads;
FC 2106-3207-A
Trim 355-648
Paint 253-7773

Chassis# FC 5811P

Engine # L507547

The following ID you already have.
My Blue FC ute ID Tag reads;
FC 2106-3102-A
Trim 194-649
Paint 256-2051

Chassis# 8 5453P

Engine # L511393

What I find interesting is that they are built 105 apart in Adelaide and assembled 358 apart in Perth.
Note that the chassis #'s are stamped differently.
Also the engine in the Ascot Grey FC would have been built earlier than the blue FC but fitted later. Their both October 1958 engines by my research.

Now for the Ascot Grey paint. This was released in 1959 but this ute is registered as 1958.
The earliest form of papers that came with the car is a Combined Licence and Insurance Policy Motor Truck dated 10th January 1961 issued by The Municipality of Northam. There is no provision in the Policy for a chassis #.
The rego plate number on the papers reads N 1959.
I'm assuming the car was purchased new in January 1959, not because of the rego plate but by the renewal date of the policy and it states its a 1958 model.
My blue FC has its rego renewed on the 9th of January each year which I assume was also purchased new in January 1959. It still has original rego number on the car. Car had always been based in Kalgoorlie WA.
Both FC's are country cars.
Look forward to reading your thoughts on this.

Regards
Sebastiano
FE-FC Holden Car Club of WA (Inc)

Hello All,
For WA only at this stage
I have the opportunity of purchasing a limited number of Grey Motor FX, FJ, FE, FC, FB, EK and EJ Holden water pumps at $95.00 each.
These are new cast iron pumps with gasket and backing plate.
First in best dressed, cash only.
Can be picked up from the GM show 16th November.
I’ll be with the FE-FC Holden Car Club and FB-EK Holden Car Club.

Regards
Sebastiano Rafala
 FE-FC Holden Car Club of WA (Inc) Member # 8
 FB-EK Holden Car Club of WA (Inc) Member #10
Mob: 0419 813 086

If wheel nuts were over tensioned with rattle gun, it may of distorted brake drum and cause brake shoes to lock.
Spin wheel by hand, if tight back off wheel nuts and try again.

Regards Seb.

Hi Les,

The noise should be consistent with the RPM of whatever is spinning.
The tail shaft spins at three and a half times more than the rear wheels. For every three and a half tail shaft RPM the rear wheel turns once.
So is it consistent with tail shaft RPM or wheel RPM?
Its a bit like tappet noise. You know its a tappet noise and not piston noise because the camshaft rotates at half engine RPM if that makes sense to you and vice versa.

If noise is at wheel RPM, have a look at the brakes in case something has come loose.
Check that the shoes are hard up against the backing plate.
Look for signs of any abnormal wear on the brake linings. Rub chalk on the linings and adjust the brakes a little snug and rotate a couple of times. Back off the adjustment, remove the brake drum and see how the linings are making contact with the brake drum.
Sometimes if the brake drum is not true or is scored it can pull the brake shoe away from the backing plate.

If noise is at a higher RPM I would look at the cardboard/tail shaft scenario or the gearbox extension housing.

Hope this helps, look forward to your findings.

Regards Seb

Hi Les,

Can you give more info on your noise issue?
Is it consistent with engine RPM?
Is it consistent with tail shaft RPM?
Is it consistent with wheel RPM?
Do you get a vibration at all or is it just noise?

Regards Seb

Hi Slim,

Ensure the hand brake is ON and in Park or Neutral with wheels chocked. Stand beside car, not in front for your safety.
Does the car have an immobiliser fitted? You may have to bypass this in case the circuit in the unit that disables the starter or ignition is faulty.
Try tapping the unit first.The internal relays often stick. If it cranks and starts this may be your problem. If not continue on.
 
Disconnect the solenoid wire at the starter motor.
Connect test probe of test light to disconnected solenoid wire and earth other end of test light.
Get a mate to sit in the car with foot on brake at all times and turn the ignition key to crank.
The test light should light up indicating power is going to solenoid.
If no power you will have to follow the solenoid wire back to the ignition switch until you get power in that circuit.

If a starter relay has been fitted you should hear it click when you attempt to crank.
If you can't hear it click give it a tap with a spanner in case the contacts inside are sticky.
You should have constant power at the wire connected to terminal 30 of the relay.
With test light at terminal 87 of the relay it should light up on crank.
Check that Terminal 86 is connected to a good earth.
Terminal 85 is connected to ignition switch via inhibitor switch. Should have power here on crank.
If that doesn't work then remove the wires going to terminal 30 and 87.
Join the two wires together.
Test light connected at disconnected solenoid wire should light up. If not reconnect relay and continue tracing the wire back.

Next step would be the Park-Neutral inhibitor switch.
Check for power going into and out of switch on crank.
If no power continue tracing circuit back to ignition switch.
With test light connected to solenoid terminal on back of ignition switch it should light up on crank.
If it doesn't the ignition switch is faulty. If it does you may have a faulty connection in the wiring circuit leading to the starter motor.

If the car starts when you bridge the starter motor then the fault is in the starter motor circuit. That means wiring and anything else connected between starter and ignition switch with the possibility of a faulty ignition switch.(Which you have replaced).

You mentioned the car would would also cut out. This indicates the ignition circuit may have a fault.
Again, does the car have an immobiliser? Check it out.

You mentioned the Brake Guys said they may have dislodged some wires. I would also look at what wires they could of dislodged whilst removing the hand brake.

Let us know how you progress.

Regards
Sebastiano
FE-FC Holden Car Club of WA (Inc)
 
 

Hi  Dave,
You may have a VIN number stamped on the left inner guard near the Voltage regulator.
If this is the case then the front chassis has been replaced at some stage with an FE one.
If there are no VIN numbers at all then the front chassis may have been replaced with a new one.

Regards
Seb
FE-FC Holden Car Cub of WA (Inc)

Hi Guys,
I have for sale a late November 1989 commodore wagon.
V6 auto.
Four wheel standard disc brakes.
Air conditioning.
Power steering.
15 inch Holden alloy rims with good tyres.
Odometer showing 390,500 kms.
Engine/engine bay looks like its never been washed down.
Condition of cars appearance is rough. It is a runner but has been De-registered and NOT suitable to go over pits.
For those in the know,this may be suitable for an engine/drive line/brake conversion for early model Holden's or Hot Rods.
Car has been advertised on other Forums.
$400 ono, pickup from Munster/Spearwood area WA 6166.
Can be towed to you at extra cost.
No SMS or Texts messages please.
If time permits I may answer PMs as I'm a shift worker.

Regards Seb
Mobile phone 0419 813 086