Next time I have another go at getting clearance on the rockers, (over Xmas) I'll check the part no and find out just what they are and/or off and see if that sheds some light. They came already set up on the head I used that came off the racing 202 I previously posted.
Funny thing is I used the rocker cover off the same motor but I guess with all the racket with very little exhaust plus solids they may have always been hitting without any one realizing.
Addo

I haven't long got my old girl going with the yt roller rockers on a early head and I've been assured I don't need guide plates. I went half turn past zero tolerance with hydraulic lifters and it seems fine. The big, big problem I have is trying to stop the buggers hitting the rocker cover sides. I have the high clearance chrome job for roller rockers and they still bounced of the sides at about 3500 revs. I have since modified it out of desperation with a big hammer so it looks yuck and I even split the rear of the cover and braised it up to allow clearance to the rear rocker and I still have a problem somewhere. I don't know if it is the type of rockers I've used or a common problem with YT's.
The rear rocker (No 6 Exhaust) seems to be the main offender.
Any one else with suggestions or experience on this?
Addo

I've always chopped a coil off the bottom on every holden I've ever owned. Always run good shocky's and sway bars and haven't had problems.
That being said I'm just about to put in my first set of lowered springs and after 25 years and I'll finally be able to see if it makes any difference.

Bloody worlds gone MAD.
Imagine FCs with that crap on it  
I would rather see a purple Valliant with the Harbour Bridge pillows, and the little dog with the nodding head.
Whats the world cumming to.....

Amen to that.

I picked up a full set of NOS skins front and rear and had no problem paying $200.00 each. The four of them have been sitting in the garage for 3 years now just waiting for the day I get serious.
Their worth what you want to pay, really.
I'd buy them all day long for 250 a set. They're not always going to be around.

Haven't seen it but shame on you Mr Cheese
YOU SOLD IT!
Looked good just the way you had it.
Addo.

A good machine buff would help. If not you could try some 'ultra fine' wet n dry paper with some clean soapy water and using a soft colour block lightly rub them out. Then finish with a cutting compound with a buff (or by hand)  then polish. This is all any shop would do. Mind you if you cut through the clear you'll need to reclear or maybe repaint the panel so go easy unless your sure you have plenty of clear on there.
Addo.

102N/M in 3 stages 50, 80 and then your 102N/M
Sequence,
Front of   12   8  4   1  5   9   13
Engine     11  7   3   2  6  10  14

I've just put mine together with a monoTorque Gasket set. This is what they recommended.
The sequence and torque is consistent with other types of Gaskets.
Addo,
I should add that a MonoTorque doesn't need retensioning (supposedly), If using others you'll need to retension. Don't forget to use 'head stud sealer' from GMH on all your head stud threads.

Gotta love what you have there Craig, it's sssoo ccccoooool!!!! .  You sir are indeed a connoisseur of fine things!
Addo.

Bit of an update.
I"M STOKED!;D
Got this baby together and she's in the car (the cars a bit off a mess and still half pulled apart). I've got a bit to do before the street initiation but this thing is sweet!
A couple of little teething problems but it is crisp and clean and sounds just how they should. The headers off the race motor slightly modified to fit the FC and a 2&1/2" system really makes it. I've got it fired up with the standard carby to iron out the bugs and then I'm going to play with a 48 mm sidedraft Weber (single) it seems to be the only thing apart from a holley that will fit the engine bay nice and I'v been hanging on to the manifold for 22 years so I'd like to at least try it. If thats a lemon I might have a go at a 4 barrel holley or similar. Any other suggestions welcome but space is a real problem and the motor is set right back against the firewall.
You've gotta love the sound of a hot red

You can only just make out where the thumb print was when comparing it to another low comp head. It is very noticeably shaved. The combustion chamber has also been relieved enough to cope with the oversize valves.
By coincidence I'm going out to put the head on the new bottom end tonight. I went with a hydraulic cam &  lifters, Wont be long before I know what she runs like.

I'll throw in my 2 cents worth as I'm in a similar dilemma myself at the moment. I have a donor car, sandblasted shell in the garage ready for structural mods and the means to do the job.
The real issue is that you cant beat the nostalgia of cruisen around in a red powered FC/E. If you need a car for full time transport buy a v6 commodore and drive it. Take the FC out on the weekend or just when you feel like it. The money you spend doing the V6 conversion on the old flyer you could own a crummydore and a red powered flyer as well.
I've just picked up my recoed hot red and she's being mated up with a M21 to slip into my old FC drive car. The sandblasted shell is going to sit for a while and the wife just ran out of oil in the VS berlina and seized it so the donor cars engine now has a new home in her car.
It all fell into place but in a couple of weeks I'll feel 18 again as I cruise around in my red powered flyer listening to rock and roll wondering why I'd want it any other way.

I feel violated, a Mazda rotory factory fitted to a holden.
13b's were great IN A MAZDA!

What do the new cylinders have instead of pushrods? been a couple of years since I had mine apart, I'm going to whip a wheel off tomorrow and check it out. I'm sure they have rods. (could be wrong though).



Ok I must be wrong.
I'm still going to look!

Not sure on the sizes but 7/8 sounds too big for use with a disc brake front end. The rears were always substantially smaller than the drum brake set up. I have standard HR rear wheel cylinders for disc brakes on mine with no problems and if I remember rightly I used a full set of rear brakes of a lc-lj torana on an old flyer I had years ago and they bolted(backing plates and all) straight up to the hr rear end and were basically the same brakes. I'm sure wheel cylinder sizes were same as the disc brake HR rears.
All this to one side I would say yes, smaller wheel cylinders will fix your problem.
You can buy a set of HR rear cylinders for a disc brake set up off the shelf at local brake shop and bolted them in. Problem solved I'm sure.
Someone may confirm sizes etc but by the sound of it your cylinders don't match a disc brake set up.

Does that mean I have to drop back to drum brake rear slaves?

I've pulled the 202 out of the old flyer to tang her up a bit for summer and one thing leads to another. Now the engine bay is getting a make over.... and now the subframes off and getting the full biscuit. The fairly urgent question I would like some advise on and I'm sure it's been asked before, "what mastercylinder / powerbooster upgrade works best with the standard HR discs and rear brakes?" I have the original HR master and booster setup at the moment but a split system would feel more comfortable. I don't want to get thrown through the front screen when I put my foot on the brake and I don't want my right leg to look like one of Popeye's arms.
Any advise appreciated.

Sorry, I just read your original post again, I should change my responce to both sides!

A 92 commodore with a metallic paint job exposed to sun and the elements down one side showing signs of clear degrading. Hmmm, fairly standard for a acrylic era commodore. I doubt paint protection has any thing to do with it. The clear eventually breaks down with sunlight. you never saw much in the way of extended warranties from paint manufacturers when it came to acrylic. You could rub it down and reclear it but you would have inconsistencies through the remaining colour and any chips or marks would look hideous under a new coat of clear. The only real way of fixing the problem is to repaint the side. If the rest of the paint is in really good nick it would look fine but if it's a little sad instead of one side of the car looking bad, one side would look good and the rest would look bad in contrast.
Play around with a few "wet look" type polishes in small areas and you might get lucky for a temporary fix but they are usually laced with silicon which will give you no end of trouble if you decide to do any paintwork within a hundred yards of it.
Hope this helps but the prognosis isn't good.
Addo

What colour is it, metalic or solid? and what year model is it? I think pre June 94 holdens were still finished in acrylic. 2 pac after that. If pre 94 and metalic there's a pretty good chance the acrylic clear may be beyond repair. If a solid colour a good buff might freshen it up and  with a good quality polish it might hang in there for a while.
Addo