No i'm not taking the piss out of any one.
If i do hotrod it, its a long way off due to other projects.
If i go this way the modifications will be done without butchering the body with the exception of the trans tunnel unfortunatly.Unless i can graft an EK auto tunnel in it.
I was thinking of transfering the FB running gear,suspension,steering and brakes to the FC ute.
I'll post the ID details, and photos will have to be done by someone who can post them here.
If i'm free on the next Club run or Meeting i'm sure one
of the guys/gals can take a photo of it.
I can't chop it due to not having a big enough grinder. ,Harko you may have to give me some lessons. Are'nt the FB's a Far Better model than the EK?
Anyway if i decide to sell, it will offered to fe2ek 1st then 4 hammers and whoever else in order.( i'm a man of my word).
Until then i'll enjoy the FB for what it is.

Regards  Seb

G'Day All,
I have recently purchased an FB STANDARD Sedan.
1st lady owner done 6,000 miles up to 1976.
She sold it to her next door neighbour who had the odometer reading 13,500 miles   up to 1982 when it was shown at the Mundaring Holden Show Day.
It then travelled another 300 miles  until 1998 where it was shown at the G M Owners Day, (Holdens 50th Anniversary).
As i drove it out of his drive way the odometer ticked over to 14,000 miles.
This car can only be described as unf#%enbeliveable.  
The floor pan is all PURE STEEL, no sprayon tar or black paint, all original right down to the body paint overspray.
It has had some paintwork to some panels and the interior is like new.
So SMOOTH to drive compared to my FC ute,but not as good looking as the FC/E.
So since its ONLY an FB STANDARD with buggerall chrome, should i HOTROD it with a hot 6/V8 and the usual drive line and suspension mods and turn it into a sleeper  :-/ or should i drive it as a yesteryears car. :-/

Regards Seb

I remember buying one 4 $5.00, what are they going 4 these days?

Seb

Good to hear from you Norm, hope all is well.

Regards  Seb

Far from being JO'K, Charles is an Accountant and drives a BMW .
Thats a nice FJ van Trev,there getting pretty rare these days.

Cheers  Seb

You should still be able to buy the greaseable balljoints.
Late HD to WB are all the same.

Regards  Seb

I've just emailed Brad W (fcfromscratch) some photos(my 1st attempt at posting)  of my cousins posing with FC's in the 1960's.
Maybe they can be posted here Brad.

Regards  Seb

The 132 & 138 take different sparkplugs.
I'll look up the part numbers and do a cross referrence for you Mike.

Regards  Seb

Make sure the centre hole of the wheel locates on the axle hub. For example, don't use XC rims on XB hubs.
The weight of the car is supported by the hub centre not by the wheel studs.
Sorry can't help with the offset.

Seb

I hear POR-15 is good.
Brush it on & when dry it looks as if it were sprayed on.
Its like a rust proof paint.

Seb

Got a photo of it and details?

Its been a while since i've worked on a black VK EFI motor, correct me if i'm wrong but i thought the dizzy was the same as the EST carby motor.
They both got an ECU, a sensor at the top of the bell housing as a reference point for # 1 cylinder, only a rotor in the dizzy (no other moving parts).
I agree that the ignition timing advance curve would be different.
I know of many VK's that have had the earlier electronic dizzy fitted due to the cost of replacing the ECU.
I would fit a dizzy from a VC, VH or WB with a new Transformer ignition coil to the red motor, the coil is better than the original or replacement oil filled electronic ignition type.
As for a twin point dizzy there should'nt be any thing hard about them.
It was all the rage in the 1980's to have a twin point.
I use to set the points at 0.016 thou on a V8 and set the timing anywhere between 6 to 16 degrees advance depending on the size of the cam and carby.
Some of the Datun 180B's had a twin point dizzy fitted from factory.
As the points got expensive we converted them to standard points.
There is also an after market electronic ignition conversion, its called Igniter and fits to the existing points dizzy.
You remove the points and condensor,change the coil and fit the new parts where the points use to be.
Don't know the cost  but i'm sure a lot less than a $200 second hand unit.

Regards  Seb

G'Day Burnsy,
Run the old grey engine until at operating temp.Its best to take it for a drive.
Jack rear of car up so engine is level. That way the engine oil won't leak from the back of the head onto the gearbox.Use stands under Diff for SAFETY.
Remove rocker cover and  spark plugs.Engine turns easier with spark plugs out.
The firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4 .
So this is what you do,write this down -
1   5   3
6   2   4
Turn the engine by hand until #6 cyl rocker arms are "on the rock",that is the exhaust valve is closing and the inlet valve is opening.
Now looking at the firing order you wrote down, you have #1 above the #6 so you adjust the valves on #1 cylinder and you will also see that both #6 & #1 pistons are on TDC ( top dead centre).
Now rotate the engine slowly and the next adjustment is for #5 cyl.
#2 cyl rocker arms "on the rock" and you adjust #5 cylinder rocker arms.
Next #4 cylinder rocker arms "on the rock" and adjust #3 cylinder rocker arms.
Next #1 cylinder rocker arms "on the rock" and adjust #6 cylinder rocker arms.
Next #5 cylinder rocker arms "on the rock" and adjust #2 cylinder rocker arms.
Next #3 cylinder rocker arms "on the rock" and adjust #4 cylinder rocker arms.
There is another way but it takes longer to do and is less confusing.
For example:- when the exhaust valve in #1 cyl is fully open, the inlet valve in #1 cyl is fully closed, so you adjust the inlet valve.
Keep doing this to each cylinder until each inlet valve is adjusted,then repeat with the inlet valve being fully open in each cylinder and adjust the exhaust valve of each cylinder.
The early Red Motors were adjusted with the engine running.
One at a time each tappet adjustment was backed off until it was noisy then slowly tighten until the tappet noise stopped then from memory tighten a further 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Hence the use of the oil deflector to reduce the oil mess.
Another trick is to use an old rocker cover with the top cut out enough to access the adjustments.
Hope this helps you out Burnsy, see you at the next meeting.

Regards  Seb
                                                               
                                                             
             

Craig i think you mean the Blue Motor elec dizzy, the black motor dizzy is a EST unit with an ECU.

Seb

Arn't the FB/EK drums wider than the FE/FC drums?
I know u can swap front & rear drums on the FE/FC but not on the FB/EK.

Regards Seb

Engine L576866

FC 225  26898-S

Trim  4-627

Paint  253-6258

Sorry no chassis #

Regards  Seb

Use an FC headlight switch, if you have 2 speed wipers you pull the switch further out and if you have washers you possibly could use the dimmer circuit.

Regards Seb

I'm guessing painted,but personally i would have them Satin Chromed.

Regards Seb

Does it need repairs/overhauling?
Is it a goer?

Seb

Does it come with carb & mounting brackets & whatever else to fit.

Seb