Messages

Thanks guys.

Just to clarify, I bought the kit, clutch and original flywheel about 8 years ago but the bloke that cut my floor pan fitted if. Unfortunately I didn't pay too much attention to his handiwork until now; and to be fair I didn't know any better at the time.

Nothing has done much mileage, but it's not to say it was set up properly in the first instance (although I concede it's given trouble free operation and has engaged and disengaged very nicely.

I could probably machine the slave adaptor to help correct the push rod angle, although I wouldn't want to take too much off it. Agree it's not ideal.

Dave

One very annoying thing I have just noticed, is that the bronze CRS fork I supplied wasn't used, and a pressed steel fork is in place. The hole for the slave pushrod isn't in quite the right spot on the steel fork so the pushrod has to kick away from a straight line push.

Forgot to mention that I checked the tailshaft yoke some years back, and despite getting a bum steer on the first shaft length, I've now rectified it.

Haven't pole vaulted yet ;D

Thanks again guys. Have continued to get the right advice here for ten years now!

I have just adjusted pushrod, and can spin the throw out freely now. It may have just been some very minor casting differences (e.g. new YT flywheel) that caused this to be tight, or perhaps as you say it wasn't right in the first instance. I do recall being able to wiggle the free play on the fork in the past, and when I couldn't do this after reassembly it rang alarm bells.

Have never installed a clutch before, so just wanting to double check!

The throw out looked OK when removed.  Too late to change now as I've assembled :o

I reckon I've got a little more than 2mm. Have got return spring set up.

The only thing I can think of is I've got the throw out bearing on backwards, but I'm sure I double checked this and I've also looked with a torch and it looks right.

Great.

Thanks Rod. I will have a look this morning.  I have the return spring set up.

Thanks for the help :D

Dave

Hi,

Hoping for some advise with clutch adjustment.  Application is red six - Toyota steel came 5 speed.

I have just reassembled clutch after motor rebuild. Clutch is about. 8000 miles old, and conventional single plate set up with increased clamp pressure and std hydraulic master with FC slave on hadfield adaptor.. I did not install it last time, but it has given trouble free service to date. It's been sitting on the bench for about a month while I've been working on the motor.

Question is how much pre- load should be on the fingers? My throw out bearing seems hard up against the fingers.

The ball pivot position has not changed. It may have always been like this, however I'm not sure. The pushrods on the slave is adjustable, so I have the opportunity to adjust if required.

I would have thought you would want zero pre load with very minor clearance between throw our and fingers?

Cheers
Dave ;)

Hi,

Thanks for all the help with this ;)

I'll run the standard volume pump and see how it goes. Only very minor mods to the oiling system on the new motor.

Cheers
Dave

Wurth make the same product in both aerosol and a tube that has a soft applicator like brush on boot polish.

Panel shops use this.

Dave

Thanks,

It is a RED motor.

I have always used the thread sealant, but I have now lost the tin.  It's $60 odd dollars and you only use about 1% of the tin, so I just wanted to confirm if something like Loctite 3J or the equivalent Permatex product would be suitable?

Thanks,

I have flattened the bolt holes on the sump already.  I was wondering about a little bit of Loctite 3J - the aviation type sealant on the cork?

I have had the oil pump off in the bay a few times before, and it is a pain I agree.  I guess it is personal choice on which pump.  Is the HV pump necessary?

On a red motor, does anyone know what the bolt is that goes into the side of the block behind the starter motor?  It actually looks like a BSP fitting.

Thanks so much for the help - especially with the red motor stuff  :o

Dave

Hi,

Hoping for a few more tips on red motor rebuild ;D

1) Oil pump:  Standard or High Volume?  I have both at home to choose from.  The HV pump is only a few thousand miles old.  The other standard pump is JP item that I have not used before (second hand).

2) Cork gaskets: what is the beast sealant for the sump gasket?

3) Cam/crank gear:  Are these a matched set?  I have a cam pressed onto an alloy JP helical gear that I have been running on an existing motor.  The new motor has a REPCO gear set.  Can I just run the existing JP cam gear on the REPCO crank gear?

Dave ;)

Thanks.

I'll go for new bolts this time.  I'll be using the same head, as it only has a few thousand miles on it.

It's been suggested to use moly grease instead of the stud sealant in order to get a more accurate torque setting on the head?

Dave

Thanks guys,

No worries.  Sounds like the new material is the go.

Regards
Dave

Hi,

I have a few extractor exhaust gaskets stockpiled.

Most are the modern composite type.  I also have an ACL asbestos type gasket that I have had in it's packaging since approximately 2000.

Are these old type gaskets better than the new ones?  It's been suggested to me that they are, but there must have been a million of the new ones used since then.

Dave

Hi,

I'm wondering if it is best practice to use new head bols when building a new motor?

In the past I have just used the old bolts.  I guess these are getting a bit long in the tooth now, and there is potential for a bit of thread stretch.

Aftermarket sets for red motor are available at about $50 for a set of 14.  Double that for ARP.

I also used to use the Holden stud sealer on the bolts when assembling.  Is this product still available, and is it necessary?

Cheers
Dave

Thanks Rob!

I got a spare minute this afternoon, had some Start Ya Bastard; you're right it is a 25% ether. Couldn't find any change in note or rpm sparing around runners.

I'm thinking that it's possible I've made an assumption... And we all know what that can lead to!

When I first got a miss, I had a sticky idle also which pointed to an uncentred jet on an SU. I was away for work for 3 or 4 months, but on a return visit I bought some jets and replaced the troublesome on on carb 3. Fixed the idle, bust still not running right.

About a year later, with only a few drives inbetween, I replaced the other jets. Now, maybe here us where the trouble is... I set the jets down from the bridge exactly where the old ones were: 0.087in. I knew this was right, as this is where it came up trumps with that needle profile on the gas analyser.

Now however, it appears to be responding to a leaner idle mixture. I'm at about 0.050 down from the bridge.

Maybe the only thing wrong is the mixture, and it's been so long between drinks that I've forgotten to reconfirm the basics?

Are there discrepencies between jets? Perhaps some are longer with a chamfer at the top?

To be continued...

P.S John the cam lobe centre is:
Ex 111 deg
In 109 deg

Duration at .050 227 In/Ex
Timings 38/78 symmetrical
Lift .457

Dave

Great,

Thanks Rob. Will try. Would Ether be too dangerous to try considering manifold heat etc?

Headers are heat wrapped, so pretty safe.

Cheers Dave

Hi guys,

Thank you for all the help.  Much appreciated.  I had a chance to test the compression again with the correct long thread adaptor. Turns out all cylinders are spot on 160-170psi.

At least the head seems ok.  Will try the leak down test next.

Do electronic dizzys have a dwell angle that can be measured?

I will check the lifters for wear next weekend.

Any tricks for picking up an intake leak? Something you can spray around the intake runner whilst running?

Dave

Thanks Craig.  Good idea on the cylinder balance test. Will try that. Will inspect dizzy shaft also. Yes I'm wondering about a leak between 5 & 6, but the wt test result seemed to go against that theory.

Vac gauge behaviour: fluctuating from 10In/Hg to 14 at idle, but smooth needle at higher rpm would suggest combustion chamber leak.

John253, yes cam is similar to xu1 but with improved drivability. Have all the necessary mods.

I would have to check my files for lobe separation. 108 rings a bell.

It's a manual. Duration is only 229 at 50 thou.

I understand the correlation with overlap and vacuum. It's happy idling around 850.